Zefevinee

Does anybody know if a hood is made for the 69 to look like the 71-73 ram air? 
I really like the look of this hood and would rather not start cutting up hoods to make it happen.
 

Saw this in Bakersfield Craigslist and thought I remembered someone was looking for one.
 
Underdrive overdrive gearvender mounted on a Ford C4 automatic, less than 10,000 miles, was in a 1928 model A the owner bought it in Colorado brought it here and put a lighter powertrane in it $2500 obo text six six one 667-7889
 
 
https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/pts/5925456591.html

Hello, new to joining the forum.  Have followed a lot of the other builds here, which are awesome, and wanted to share where we are in ours.  My dad and I acquired the car in late 2014.  It came with an extremely mild 351C and a C6 tranny.  He tinkered on it here and there and added a few parts but always wanted a little more.. who doesn't.. So after I brought home a 2016 mustang GT he was hooked on the coyote 5.0  We had originally planned strictly a front end conversion and engine/tranny swap but this has turned into a full blown build.  Many of the parts came from Mustangs to Fear, and they have been really really nice to work with.  All of the work is being completed by GT Graphics and Customs out of Franklin, NC.  Both Gary and Teresa over at GT Graphics and Customs are first class individuals.  We couldn't be more pleased with them.
 
I won't bore you with a parts list so here's some pictures of where we are at!
 
Here's the current stable of cars:
 

 
The tear down...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
Some problem areas...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Rebuilt my pedal support with the roller bearing. Now when looking at it, it looks misaligned. It could be correct but just looking at it different now. Does it look right?

I can't help thinking there's something fishy about this add. Colors are mixed, but above all, is that really the market price for an S-code?
 
http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/ford/226468-1969fordmustangflemings-ultimate-garage.html
 
What do you guys think?
 
G

I am very new to this classic car restoration, I inherited a 69 mustang coupe and am currently in the process of restoring and repairing.
 
My problem is I dont have a good idea of what the original should look like at times due to jerry-rigs and hack-fixes all over the car.
 
I need to find a good classic mustang or car shop in the Seattle area to come running to with my various questions on looks, parts, installs etc. Anyone know the area well enough to shoot me some names?

WTB '70 Grande Coupe Landau 2/3 Vinyl Roof Top molding Trim which goes across roof top,comes in four pieces,I don't require the two short cast ends I only require the two long pieces.Attached top picture shows molding. Cheers Phil
 
No longer required purchased off EBay
 
 

The time has come to get a new floor jack.  My crappy old, small craftsman won't hold up much anymore, and it's never had enough vertical lift.
 
I don't have a ton of floor space, so I'd like one that isn't too huge when not in use, and slides under tight spaces, and lifts plenty high.
 
What floor jacks do you guys have and what are some good features to look for?
 
Also,  What jack points do you guys use in the front of the car?  The frame is rather high up off the ground, so with the jack I have had, I can't even lift the wheel off the ground if I jack on the frame.  I usually wind up jacking on the frame near the eccentric bolts or literally on the lower control arm (especially if I just wanna get a wheel off the ground).
 
If you have any advice on what jack to get, and where you like to use it on the car, I'd love to hear some advice.
 
Thanks!
 
Jay

Well, after years of contemplating tig welding a crack in an extra headlight bucket I have, I went ahead and done did it. I apologise that I only took after pics. I do know that the cleaner the metal the better the conditions for a nice weld. I did use acetone and gave it my best college try. There must be a lot of crap in pot metal because it sure welded like dirty oily aluminum.
 
I marked one pic with a sharpie where the original crack was on the top. Years ago I drilled the end of the crack top side, but the angle of the drill bit didn't follow the crack edge as shown from the back side pic. That pic shows the crack extends past the drill hole, which popped when welding causing a larger hole. I also ground a V in the top side of the crack before welding it. I was a bit leery of applying too much heat and causing a fallout of the base metal. The filler rod and be metal's melting point were different which made for an even more difficult weld.
 
I believe I'll run a filler less bead on the back side to finish the repair. All in all it wasn't too difficult, just more irritating than difficult. I certainly won't hesitate to do more welding on pot metal when needed.
 

 

 

 

Anybody use the Scott Drake brand labeled shocks?  Are they simply KYB Gas-A-Justs that are relabeled for Scott Drake?  They look a little different than the KYB shocks.  Are they a high pressure gas shock like the KYB Gas-A-Justs?  There is very little info out there for these shocks.  Thanks in advance for any info.
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz18124hp/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang

I am trying to get 2 of the plastic lugs (as seen in the attached Photos) that fit in the aluminium bottom lower sections of the rear window molding trim & holds the window molding trim to the lower trim clips would anyone have any. Thanking you Phil
 

barnett, I think your box is full as I'm unable to send you a private message. Is there a way I can contact you. Perhaps send me your email address via private message?
 
Thanks,
 
John

Just joined and this is my first post of my wife's 69 S code.
Bought it over the net from a police officer in Virginia, tells me the car is virtually rust free.
Rear tail light panel , trunk floors, quarters,front floor pans and front torque boxes. Has the 69 shaker hood on now.
Certainly learned my lesson on trust!!!!. Numbers matching and has a 4.30 detroit locker from new.
Cut the roll cage out of it and now is progressing well.
I will have plenty of questions to ask.
Here is a few pics and now it's a lot further down the track to being finished

70 convert, 302/auto, PS, PDB, orig working A/C. Motor to my knowledge has not been rebuilt, does not smoke, has alum 4 barrel intake and carb, but have orig 2 v intake/ carb. Trans was rebuilt several years ago, have receipt. New exhaust with factory exhaust manifolds. All Numbers matching, all original sheet metal, and rust free. Professionally painted by Triple F Automotive, spent roughly 10,000. Top was replaced 4-5 years ago and has 4 small 1/4" holes due to screw issues. Interior has new carpet, pad, and new seat covers. Factory am radio installed and still works.
Asking 23,500

I bought this mid summer after getting a hole in my previous radiator.  I'm upgrading to an aluminum radiator as the 347 I'm running needs just a little more help.   This has only 4-500 miles on it.
 
http://www.cjponyparts.com/RAD3383/p/RAD3383/?utm_source=Pony&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=OrderConfirmation&lac_guid=ed53fa7f-6e0e-e611-be9f-2c59e547f8d7
 
Will sell for $150 + Shipping.
 
 
 

Been trying to find time to work on the resto of my Mach and have come to the realization that I didn't build a big enough shop! A 24' x 26' shop is just not big enough for the resto of a car. Part of my time is consumed with tripping over crap, getting frustrated, and moving it from one spot, only to move it to another later. Anyway, over the Christmas break I got a little organized and resumed the disassembly of my car. Yesterday, I began the removal of the interior....more crap to trip over now. And jeez, where am I going to put those bucket seats now that they are out of the car...lol!
 
So, pulled up the carpet on the passenger side yesterday and found this:
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I'm the second owner of this car, having bought it with 51k miles on it from the original owner. I know everything I've ever done to this car, most of which I regret....i.e. cutting holes in the shock towers to facilitate greasing the upper A arms; cutting up the rear speaker shelf for placement of some 6x9 speakers, etc. Which reminds me; anyone know what this is?
 
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That's a Craig Power Play 8 Track deck that I personally installed around 1978. You weren't squat in the audio world back then with anything less than this! And, it also has the added amp....lol! To this day, I often hear a song come on the radio and reflect back to the first time I heard that song which, more often than not, was in my Mach on that Craig unit.  
 
Am surprised with the amount of sound deader materials in my car. Wondering if it was the norm. Lots of this under the carpet.
 
[/url]">http://http://s1139.photobucket.com/user/Aquamach/media/Mustang/P1030105_zpsqapwarii.jpg.html'>
 
Found a lot of coinage and such taking out the interior. Found an old card from a girlfriend long since past. Wonder where she is today? Found pictures in the form of old ID's that initially I did not recognize as self. Had hair then, a little thinner in the face too. A little thinner around the waste too. Gotta work on that...New Years thing!
 
Happy New Years!!!

Hello everyone, I've been on other Mustang forums, but thought I should join this one since my only current Mustang is a 69 vert.  Its been in the family around 10 years, I just bought it from my brother after he and my dad worked on it for several years. I had an unfortunate engine fire in it around October and just got it back from the shop a couple of days ago.  I have a few issues right now (mostly something with a head I believe, it smokes randomly, usually after letting off from acceleration, its white and I think its valves).  Here she is, I've named her Angie after the song and a red-haired girl I knew in school.
 
 

I was concerned with safety, so I opted to upgrade my brakes using the kit from Vintage Venom. Using their adapter I installed '04 Cobra rotors and calipers. To allow these larger calipers to fit, I had to use 17" rims. I chose bullitt anthracite rims, 17x8 deep in front, and 17x10.5 deep in back.
 
I still like the idea, but I will have to do more work to get the this set up properly. I can drive the car, but I am fearful of the possibility of the rubber inadvertently bumping a fender or quarter. I am also unhappy with the braking system, and I suspect I need to change the MC, perhaps with a hydroboost setup.
 
I would like to read more about what others have done with theirs.

 

 

photobucket

Not exactly a How-to but....
 
 
Let me start off by saying that I am not selling a product or sponsored by anyone nor have any benefit by posting this.
 
I am currently active duty USMC, prior to this I was an ASE master tech for 10 years (still hold my certs and work on cars on the reg)
 
I have not had to replace too many brake lines at the dealership level, but consistently replaced them at the independent repair shops as well as my cars and projects.
 
Long story short, I recently plumbed my whole 1969 fastback with stainless lines and new fittings for 2008 front disc, stock rear 8" drums, FRPP prop valve, and tons and tons of care, busted knuckles and time with poor poor results. Almost every fitting leaked and some fluid ate the NEW FRESH PAINT off of my NEVER DRIVEN restorations.
 
I have always used the "traditional" flaring tools- simple kits with the small dies and T-handle with the bar that holds the brake lines. then you fight it and normally manage to make a crap flare.
 
I have used many many many different kits. I currently have a Matco double flaring 45 degree kit, and an OTC ISO (bubble) Flare kit. each kit was about 50-80 bucks (cant remember)
 
I recently decided to bite the bullet and buy the 199 dollar Inline Tube kit
 
http://www.amazon.com/K-Tool-International-KTI70081-Brake-Flaring/dp/B004IKRO34
 
Its the same kit that Eastwood, K tools and a few others use/sell. Normally you see them 235 or so for the kit but some shopping can get you the kit for 200 shipped.
 
This is by far-the EASIEST-BEST quality flares I have ever made. I used to spend about 20-30 minutes per flare with the traditional method and now it takes less than 5 minutes. If you are starting with a fresh line you might have 2 minutes invested with a perfect, uniform flare.
 
Eastwood has some very informational "How to use" videos which are worth the watch.
 
I am still going to use my Stainless line but with 37 degree AN fittings and 3/16" Inverted flare to -3 AN adapters where needed. I bought the 37 degree adapter from eastwood for 95 bucks, so I have 300 invested and can do pretty much anything i need to now.
 
It was sooooooo easy that my wife flared a line with mild steel (her first time ever) in 5 minutes.
 
I have done quite a bit of research between this and the Mastercool hydraulic kit with a similar pricepoint. It can do all of this plus quick connect fittings (one benefit/selling point)
 
I have seen many reviews saying the hyd kit leaked or was very easy to over-flare the lines if you are not careful. The K-tool kits work best in a vise due to being somewhat cumbersome but thats a smaller price to pay than having a hyd hand tool that leaks and cant flare.
 
Anyway, I wanted everyone to know that I wish I had bought this tool 10 years ago (wasnt out and I was cheaper with money back then)
 
I have easily spent over the 200 bucks this initial investment wouldve been by purchasing sub-par traditional kits.
 
The only hints or advice I have for any line repair is to make 100% sure you file your line square and center your dies (K-tools auto centers by detent)
 
Im sure other ppl have different input about the traditional kits and great success but this is so much easier its worth it and you can sell the tool on ebay or something when done

Black 3 included, 2 excellent one has broken pin. Includes mounting screws
Original

Well it's been awhile in the making and I'm setting some time aside to create a thread on this, as I'll likely need tips as I proceed. The car is a 70 Mach with a 351w and an FMX trans that leaked out of every crevice possible. Below is a parts list, prices paid, and some pictures of those parts. I set out try and save money where I could in order to get a few more comforts like hydraulics. My goals for this project are to minimize the changes to the car that can't be reversed easily, such as hacking up the trans tunnel to fit the beast in there. My wife is due August 15th with our first child, so I'll be hauling balls trying to get this conversion complete.
 
Parts List thus far:
 
2004 Cobra T-56 used with 29k miles - $900
Quicktime RM-8031 Bellhousing new - $350 from Corral.net group buy
Spec Stage II SF482 kevlar clutch and pressure plate -- Slightly used (one run on dyno) -- $190 from Corral.net classifieds
Spec SF05A billet aluminum flywheel (yes I know DD negatives with lightweight flywheels) -- New in box -- $250 from Corral.net classifieds
Pro 5.0 billet shifter with Steeda Tri-Ax shifter -- Slightly used -- $75 from SVTPerformance.com classifieds
Hurst white 6spd shifter ball - $30
Cobra slip yoke used - $50
Dynotech 46.5" x 4" x 0.065" steel driveshaft used from NASCAR - $38 shipped
Mustang original clutch pedal assembly - $170 shipped
MustangSteve roller bearing kit - $40
ModernDriveline LF Master Cylinder kit - $235
McLeod 1400-30 Hydraulic Throwout bearing with sleeve - $359
24" stainless hydraulic line - $39
3"x1"x1/8" rectangular tubing 4' long for the custom trans crossmember - $30
Custom motor mounts - roughly $50 See build thread here: http://www.stangfix.com/testforum/index.php/topic,6383.0.html
 
 
Pictures:

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 
 

 
 
 

 

 

 
Thats all for the parts list. I'm up to about $2900 for everything including miscellaneous ARP bolts and other hardware.

Wow that is so impressive!!
 
I don't know if I could cover over that artwork though. It looks too good to hide away. I completely agree why you'd cover it up but such a shame it can't be left.
 
How many mm thick are the flange plates that mate to the heads? They look about 20mm?

Don't know the tail #,it was a KC 135 refueling tanker at Pease Ntl. Guard base in Portsmouth NH

This was quite the day. It probably doesn't look like I've done a thing, but oh boy, I'm pooped. When the entire rear of the car is missing, fitting as many parts as possible is the only way to go about rebuilding it. I had to remove the quarter to find out why my filler pannel would not line up. The pic with the arows is the reason, a little trimming, and all is well. The front of the quarter is all but ready for some drilling and welding, but the tail light pannel, and the actual fit between the quarter and the trunk drop are still in need of some final tweeking. I am going to leave all these components in the screwed together condition untill the drivers side has it's trunk floor, and wheel tubs installed. That way the driver's side quarter can be temp attached and Everything checked for alignment before it is permantly stuck together. The quarter extension and the tail light housing fit fairly well, the attachment holes for the extension are in need of a little enlarging, but for now, it will do. Just a little more fitting, and the tail light pannel will come back off for the removal of the driver's side trunk floor.
Gotta fix my driver's side door before I get to a head of myself.

Must have if you are installing Deluxe Door panels. Original