WilliamFug

Passenger side was next..
 

 

 

 
Rocker getting welded in..
 

 

 
New passenger side metal..
 

 

 

 

Help! My block has 2 cylinders that wore weird. Now it's recommended that it gets punched out and new pistons. First choice is to locate .020 over, if not, then we jump to .030.
 
If anyone can help locating pistons, please let me know.
 
Dave

Where can I get an aluminum water pump to replace the heavy cast iron unit on the engine now. You may have guess it I'm trying to lightened up my car :)

Well this is not really 69 specific so figured I would post this here to get some insight and ask some questions and see what everyone thinks.
 
I finished building one of the torque boxes last night for my 66 Coupe and had been kicking the idea around of building a set of Sub Frame connectors with the left over 3x3x.188 wall square tube I had left over from my Rotisserie build....They wouldn't sale me anything but a 20' stick of the stuff so I had a little over 12' remaining and don't really have a use for it so Why not put it to good use right?
 
Anyhow as you can see from the pics I got the Torque box welded up and its just sitting in the car, then I took the 3x3 square tubing and instead of doing the normal sub frame connector route and sliding the tube up inside of the frame rails, I cut the bottom out and it fit right over the old beat up rails..
As you can see I chopped the front down so that it ran all the way up and will tie together with the Torque box when its all done...
I will need to notch the connectors and bend them to get the alignment to meet up with the rear frame but I don't think I will have a problem with that.
 
Now here are a few questions.
1. once I get it all mocked up and get the metal all prepped will it be okay to weld the torque boxes and sub frame connectors in with the car on the Rotisserie?
I don't see why it would be a problem because the car is solid and the door opened and closed perfectly with it on the rotisserie before I took them off... The floor pans were replaced by the PO and are in good shape as well.
 
2. Jack Rails... I have only seen these things on the internet in 1 place and have not seen them in person on a mustang Ever... If no one has heard of these ill explain real fast... basically its a piece of 1x1 square tube that mounts over the pinch weld area between where the rockers and floor pans are welded together.
It seems like it might be a good idea, plus would help protect things... Anyhow I am planning to do a set of these and run triangulated stringers from the jack rails to the sub frame connectors.
Ya'll think this is something worth doing??

Pair of Convertible Boot Hockey Stick Moldings for 1969-1970 Mustangs used re-chromed not concourse.
These are the moldings at the top of the quarter panel at the base of the convertible top. Includes stud and nut mounting kit. Sold as a pair $100.00us Plus freight ex NZ.
 
Attached Thumbnails  

Hello, new to joining the forum.  Have followed a lot of the other builds here, which are awesome, and wanted to share where we are in ours.  My dad and I acquired the car in late 2014.  It came with an extremely mild 351C and a C6 tranny.  He tinkered on it here and there and added a few parts but always wanted a little more.. who doesn't.. So after I brought home a 2016 mustang GT he was hooked on the coyote 5.0  We had originally planned strictly a front end conversion and engine/tranny swap but this has turned into a full blown build.  Many of the parts came from Mustangs to Fear, and they have been really really nice to work with.  All of the work is being completed by GT Graphics and Customs out of Franklin, NC.  Both Gary and Teresa over at GT Graphics and Customs are first class individuals.  We couldn't be more pleased with them.
 
I won't bore you with a parts list so here's some pictures of where we are at!
 
Here's the current stable of cars:
 

 
The tear down...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
Some problem areas...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

·       Mustang Monthly Magazine 7 hrs Â·  WE NEED YOUR HELP! The 2016 ARP/Street Rodder Road Tour car was STOLEN LAST NIGHT IN BAKERSFIELD, CA.
License plate is 7TTV301 (Calif. Plate)
It's a 1966 Ford Fairlane. Cream White in color with a red stripe along the bottom and a red interior, blacked out hood and decklid.
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Look like the put some effort into the car and are having plenty of fun.
 

Question, have a supposedly 390 matching nos in my car .
When i unbolted the hooker super comps i took off 16 header bolts
Checked the casting no and it tells me they are cobra jet heads , do they just bolt onto the 390 and do they have better ports.
The inlet manifold is a alloy ford police interceptor or shelby , i am new to these engines so any help appreciated.
The car was raced often and had a roll cage in it.

This car has been drag raced for years , got raceway decals on the rear glass and some time slips.
Changing the rear to a Traction lock 3 to 1 more streetable and my wife is the main driver and she has a heavy foot!!!
Post more pics soon.

So who all is heading to Cruising the Coast this year?
We are leaving Lake Charles LA on Thursday the 6th around Noon time to head to the House on the coast that we rent every year...If anyone wants to cruise with our gang you are more than welcome to join up with us.
Will be a 3-4 car convoy from Lake Charles to Denham Springs, where we will pick up one possibly 2 more cars and then make our way to the Coast....

Just joined and this is my first post of my wife's 69 S code.
Bought it over the net from a police officer in Virginia, tells me the car is virtually rust free.
Rear tail light panel , trunk floors, quarters,front floor pans and front torque boxes. Has the 69 shaker hood on now.
Certainly learned my lesson on trust!!!!. Numbers matching and has a 4.30 detroit locker from new.
Cut the roll cage out of it and now is progressing well.
I will have plenty of questions to ask.
Here is a few pics and now it's a lot further down the track to being finished

Would it be hard to black out the moldings and bumper on this image? Thanks for taking the time to look guys, new on here!
 
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oH-YEFuEkbs/U3HotPaNYAI/AAAAAAAABuI/scDqTxkF-1c/s1600/Rare+1970+Ford+Mustang+Boss+302+Calypso+Coral+1.JPG
 
http://1-photos.ebizautos.com/used-1970-ford-mustang-boss302-9423-5096299-5-640.jpg

Well, here we are the day before Thanksgiving. Some of us are stuck at work, some are traveling, and others are already out in the garage being thankful for the horsepower that has been given them.
 
We will be closed tomorrow and Mike will be the only guy answering the phone Friday (7-3) and Saturday (8-1).  That's Pacific time, of course. You can also stop in for will calls. However, that's not the only way you can save.
 
We are not going to limit our sales to just one day, or just one weekend. All of the special pricing and discount codes are live NOW on our website.  They're good through December 31st. You can use them ordering online or over the phone.
 
 
CLICK HERE To View Sales and Discount Codes on Suspension and Chassis Components from Total Control Products!
 

Lower dash for a 1970 Mustang without A/C. Very clean unit with zero rust. Back of unit is also clean where they typically have surface rust. $150 plus S&H. I do not have the glovebox. Located in Iowa.

Hey all, I'm replacing my 14" Magnums 500 chrome steel wheels with a 15" set and will most likely go with the Magnums again. But I wanted to know..."if you had to" replace your existing wheels... what kind and brand of wheels would you replace them with?If you have Magnums would you stay with those?would you maybe try out the Aluminum Alloy Magnums? or would you go with a Weld Alloy wheel ? A Centerline Convo Pro perhaps....Would you try something different? Would you dare? Lol...Let's hear from everyone!

From the body shop that is. My best recollection is that it's been there since about 1999. Been in this stage for many of those years. Got side tracked with a divorce, built a shop, got married, had a shop at the new house but never brought it home, another divorce, sheesh!
Anywho, gonna start on fabbing up some round chromo control arms and coil overs, steering, 4 wheel disc, fit the engine/C5 trans and make a driveshaft, electrical, yada yada...
YEE HAW!!! I'm excited she's home.
 
Bob
 
 

Selling my 1969 mustang coupe, roller car $3,200 obo
Clean ca title
4 drum brake car
Power steering
Originally an a/c
Cowl hood
New 15 inch wheels with Mickey Thompson drag radials
Complete interior (really good shape)
Very little rust, just surface rust in the trunk and behind the passenger rear wheel
Vinyls top
Needs paint and motor and trans and your good to go
Also some extras that I have not listed
Call me or email or text me with any questions
7076736058 Located in Fairfield, California

I was thinking about putting a shaker kit on my 69 Mach.It has the non functional scoop with the turn signals in it.I was wondering if anyone has done this? how it turned out? And how easy or hard it was to do?

Hello All,
Well the season is about over for us and up to now we have not
won a trophy of any kind.
I know that trophies are not really that important but it would have been
nice to win one once this season
 
I think our car looks pretty damn good on the outside and interior.
 
I have been talking to a few people at shows and they are suggesting I
do some work under the hood as far as looks
 
currently the car has Chrome Moroso valve covers
Braided hoses and a blue specter flow air cleaner
 
I pretty much like the looks - but now people seem to think
I should go bak to complete stock looks
 
I understand that the car is ours and beauty is in the eye of the beholder
I was just wondering what you people think would help our car
look better
 
One friend suggested putting on 17's and low profile tires but I sure like
the 70's look of the keystones
 
Gotta admit it is a little discouraging to not win one trophy all season
I honestly think the car looks pretty cool
I should and will post a picture of the motor - but for now what
do you guys think would help.
Should I go back to stock look including hoses, clamps
and all that goes with it
 
Thanks all
 
Print Dad (SAm)

I'm fixing to redo my seats on my Mach, anyone used the skins and foam from Mustang Market? I used CJ/TMI on my 68 and they were ok, but vinyl seemed to be lite weight material.

When I read about Shaun's convertible inner rocker install over at VMF, I was hooked and decided to do it along with the one piece seat riser. I had already removed the stock seat risers because the NPD Ventura phone sales guy said the conv and sportsroof were the same height. This after I axed him to compare the two. I found out otherwise when I went to pick them up. You don't need a tape measure when they're side by side. Because the conv seat riser raises the seats by one inch, I figured I could just splice in the center hump piece which goes over the tunnel. After measuring twice I cut into it. A the center piece is 1" higher than the stock risers, I made several relief cuts in it and bent down the hump ends and tacked them. Surprisingly I only had to add one small filler wedge piece on each side.
 
The inner conv rockers were fairly easy to install, just time consuming. I can't imagine doing them without a rotisserie. The fun part was welding a zillion plug and tack welds.
 
Crap, shoulda uploaded all my pics when I had the chance :(
 
Bob

After making a right hand turn my turn signal switch cancels as it should but most of the time travels to far and turns on the left turn signal. Any thoughts? Is the switch bad or in need of a little grease? All works as it should when I signal for a left turn. Thanks.   Dave R.

Ok here's what I have done like to see if anyone else has this setup. 69 302 I took the 2v off put an aluminum intake and a Holley street demon 625 carb on. My problem I ran into is the throttle cable the bracket seems to be to far back and the petal gets pulled and it's binding. Please show pics and what bracket you used to fix if you had the same issue
Thanks

Would anyone know the size of the two bolts that screw into the steering wheel when using a steering wheel puller? I think they are fine thread.
Thanks,
Bill