Total Control Products

Are you referring to the 'Classic Series' brake kit, # 140-13476? That front kit is designed to fit inside a factory Disc Brake style 14" wheel. It uses a stock STYLE rotor in that the hub, hat, and rotor are integrated. However, it is not a Ford piece.

Are you asking if anyone has used a Wilwood caliper with stock hubs and rotors? While it's possible that someone has I am not aware of any that have. Even if there was a caliper that would fit the stock rotor you would then have to machine a custom mount. Wilwood does not offer a 'replacement' caliper for these cars.

We sell Wilwood and their Mustang M/C is a 0.875" so the 15/16" from Baer makes sense. The pedal ratio needs to be roughly 6:1. It will work great. Lots of feedback. Quality modern brakes are more efficient; they don't need all the pressure that a stock booster style system will put out.

Lokar has hardware to make a kit yourself. Wilwood now offers a kit that's ready to go, assuming you have the internal parking brake style kit. It's here - http://www.wilwood.com/Hardware/HardwareProd.aspx?itemno=330-9371 You can get it from your favorite Wilwood supplier.

RE Tire Sidewall: Barnett468 speaks the truth. While the lower profile tires provide more predictable handling they do so at the sacrifice of ride compliance. They transmit more noise, vibration, and harshness (commonly referred to as NVH) than a taller sidewall simply because they are much stiffer. I like to think about the tire as another spring. Because it is a shorter spring it has to be stiffer to keep from bottoming out whereas a longer spring can be softer to absorb impacts over a greater distance. Most new cars have fairly low profile tires, so I think we're kind of used to it at this point. Granted, there's a big difference between handling like a new Mustang and a new Camry. Thank God! On a separate note: Yep, I'm here to talk about Total Control Products. Ya got me. :-) But I'm also here to help make sure that people get the parts they need and that they know how they work. And, more often than not, to dispel rumors and incorrect information. The average car guy can tell you all about the benefits of one cam vs another but doesn't know a whole lot about suspension. I'm kind of the opposite. I'm the last guy you want helping to build your engine, but I can help you tune the chassis package. FVike told me about this forum when he called about fixing his Sportsroof a couple years ago. I stop in now and then to see how things are going on his build, and a couple others. Not nearly as often as I would like. I only field a handful of sales calls a day. The rest of the time I spend answering tech emails, running our Facebook pages, and cruising the forums for questions and trying to provide some tech insight. Sorry if I've stepped on any toes in the process.

You are absolutely right! A properly matched set of shocks and springs are the goal. It doesn't matter if they are coilovers, coil springs, leaf springs, torsion bars, or airbags- as long as they are correct for the job they need to do. However, the benefit of a coilover is that you can fine tune the spring and that there are more rates to choose from. Apples to apples, the ride quality should be the same. However, spring and shock mounting position does have an impact on ride quality and suspension performance. As a coilover assembly is physically smaller we can improve the motion ratio which allows us to run a lighter spring, due to more mechanical advantage, and this does improve the ride quality. Also, properly engineered coilover system has less stiction in the shock and spring assembly than a coil spring style setup. This also improves ride quality and makes it quieter. Chris actually wrote a really informative article on the subject: Coilover Conversions Explained.

The spring is not the primary contributor to ride quality. It's pretty much only in the mix to keep the car from dragging on the ground. The shock is the brains of the operation, but there is more to it than just a good shock with the proper spring rate. There are several things that you want the suspension to do: 1. Keep the tires contact patch flat on the road surface. 2. Maintain precise control of suspension travel arcs and spindle position. 3. Control wheel movement without a harsh ride. 4. Reduce the amount of body roll and pitch. 5. Provide adjustability for tuning purposes. You can learn more about the options that we offer by reading THIS DOCUMENT or by giving us a call. We manufacture four different base systems for the front of the Mustang. See them all HERE. Each has a lot of configuration options. I'm happy to talk you through all the ins and outs. Thanks Trinity!

No matter what style coil spring compressor you use just make sure to go slow and steady and use lots of lubricant. Anti-sieze gets everywhere, but it's easier to clean up than blood or scratched bodywork. I've never seen the 'shock style' compressor and neither has our senior tech. It's an interesting idea, seems like it would work pretty well. Let us know how it goes!

We've seen this as well. Definitely only use rubber with the stock strut rods.

Well, that comes down to what you want from the car. If it's mostly a weekend cruiser and you just want it to be more predictable, then upgrading the lower arm and/or the strut rods will make a big improvement. If you have a heavier foot and like to charge the corners from time to time, then you might consider going to a complete coilover system. We can get the front end lower than shown in your pics above or, if you like the stance, we can configure a system that will put it pretty darn close. If you're somewhere in between, there's options for that too.

Hey there, While worn bushings are definitely concerning, a contributing factor to your alignment changes could be the eccentric adjuster in the lower control arm. We recommend installing an Eccentric Eliminator kit which is essentially a lock-out for the lower control arm. I was going to paste a picture but it looks like we recently added a video the site. CLICK HERE. Swapping out the lower control arms isn't rocket science. As long as you're careful when removing the coil spring it's relatively fool-proof. It's not a ten-second job, but it cam be accomplished with common tools. There are several sources for replacement OEM style arms that are reasonably priced and already have the bushings installed. It's worth the extra couple bucks to just replace the arm as it's murder getting the bushings out. However, while the car will handle better, it's not going to handle amazing. It's still gonna have bump steer issues and dive for the ditch when you slam on the brakes. The lower control arm and strut rod have huge rubber bushings that conspire to make the car 'safe' for the average driver and unpredictable for the spirited driver. If you have considered upgrading the suspension in the past, now is the perfect time to do it.

Wow, Frode! I had not checked on your car in a while. I logged in today and I see that you have made a lot of progress. It's looking great!

Just wanted to say thank you to everyone who has been taking advantage of our Holiday Deals. The factory is working like crazy to get everything shipped before Christmas!

Well, here we are the day before Thanksgiving. Some of us are stuck at work, some are traveling, and others are already out in the garage being thankful for the horsepower that has been given them. We will be closed tomorrow and Mike will be the only guy answering the phone Friday (7-3) and Saturday (8-1). That's Pacific time, of course. You can also stop in for will calls. However, that's not the only way you can save. We are not going to limit our sales to just one day, or just one weekend. All of the special pricing and discount codes are live NOW on our website. They're good through December 31st. You can use them ordering online or over the phone. CLICK HERE To View Sales and Discount Codes on Suspension and Chassis Components from Total Control Products!

Yes, that's what I was suggesting. I honestly didn't think about bleeding. I mainly deal with Wilwood brakes and they have bleeder bolts top and bottom. Comes in handy in situations like this.