elizaey1

Well, here we are the day before Thanksgiving. Some of us are stuck at work, some are traveling, and others are already out in the garage being thankful for the horsepower that has been given them.
 
We will be closed tomorrow and Mike will be the only guy answering the phone Friday (7-3) and Saturday (8-1).  That's Pacific time, of course. You can also stop in for will calls. However, that's not the only way you can save.
 
We are not going to limit our sales to just one day, or just one weekend. All of the special pricing and discount codes are live NOW on our website.  They're good through December 31st. You can use them ordering online or over the phone.
 
 
CLICK HERE To View Sales and Discount Codes on Suspension and Chassis Components from Total Control Products!
 

Here is what we've been working on.
 
 

In the next few months or so ill be picking up the aaw kit. For those who have it, is there an extra line that has enough (30) amps to run fans? Im not too worried about the headlight relays they have but how has that worked if you're running h4 or halogen bulbs? generally, what are the amp ratings for the open spots not assigned to anything? Have any suggestions, or negative things to look out for? 
 
Thanks. 

Took off my old trans cooler and fan:
 

 
Stuck on a bigger one and hopefully it won't need a fan.  Still need to do the lines tomorrow.
 

Came across all my old measurements from my stock converter to my new converter for my 4R70W after I wiped out a thrust bearing on my 408 and figured I would share them since the stock converter was deemed the problem.
The thrust failure was NOT a result of converter ballooning, but rather converter hub length and crank pilot hub depth "or lack there of"
Anyhow here are the measurements for comparison.

Abbreviations will be as follows

OC = Old Converter
NC = New Converter

1. Difference in over all height of converters measured from the tip of pilot hub to the end of the input on converter was .085 with the new converter being the shortest.

2. Overall depth of converters measured from inside of converter to outside lip of input shaft area... basically stuck a Dial caliper in the converter and extended it to the bottom inside of both converters and measured to the end of the input shaft area on each converter.
OC = 7.435
NC = 7.107
Delta = .328

3. Depth from the mounting pads to the edge of bell housing after converter was fully seated.
OC = .935
NC = 1.094
Delta = .159

4. Distance from mounting pads on converter to the tip of the converter pilot snout.
OC = .897
NC = .884
Delta = .013

5. Distance from Tip of Pilot Hub to edge of bell housing after seating both converters.
OC = .055
NC = .249
Delta = .194

6. Pilot hole depth for Old Crank that burnt the thrust was .600
Pilot hole depth on new crank is .590 so its a bit shallower and so far as I can tell all is going okay.

Anyhow not sure if these measurements will help anyone but there they are for future ref.

Basically if your going to run a stock converter behind a 302/351 Combo be sure that your converter seat depth from the mounting pads to the edge of the bell housing is at least 1", if not then you need to be sure you have the converter seated correctly and if so then your converter is probably not going to work without giving you problems...
Also if you have a rebuilt motor check the Pilot hub depth, and remember when you install the transmission that the converter should slide forward and backwards with ease and you should have about 3/8" of movement back and fourth... If you bolt it in and cant slide the converter your in for trouble.

Trying to work the bugs out of a new combination.
 

I will start shortly to rebuild my FMX gearbox.
I have my car, 69 mach 1,  since 3 years now and have no idea about any maintenance made on the gearbox previously.
I can hear a strange noise when I drive the car during the 500 first meters and after this everything works fine.
And it doesn't happened every time.
 
I wonder if I should replace the converter?
 
 
 

Sure was a lot of work fitting the 'glass stuff and figuring out how the front grille/headlight bucket area went together.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have conflicting thoughts about what is the right stance for our cars.
 
It looks like 15" wheels has an equal space all around the arch of the wheel well.
On Taller wheels 17"-18", it seems to get the top of the tire into the arch.
Does anyone agree or what do you think?
 
In regards to 15" wheels, do you think the distance from the right and left side of the tire to the side arch should be the same height from the top of the tire to the arch?
 
If measuring the stance at the rocker panel, should they be the same height from front to back or an 1", 2" different.
 
 
 

Hey guys I had a soft pedal so I thought that the brake fluid might have been low. About 6 months ago a mechanic did the rear shoes and wheel cylinders for me, but to further inspection he didn't bleed the brakes because when I opened the master cylinder cap the fluid was black. I suctioned out the fluid and added new in. I went to bleed out the front calipers and the bleeder screw snapped. I went and picked up two new calipers and bled them until there was no air just fluid. The pedal was stiff in the car. As soon as I turned on the car the pedal went to the floor and lost all its pressure. Is this due to my proportioning valve? Or is there possibly air in the rear lines that I need to get out and redo the front? I'm going to try bleeding all of them tomorrow this time with the car running starting from the furthest to the closest but I wonder if I will be wasting my time. And help I would appreciate and if it is the PV and tips on removing and installing a new one. Thanks

I need a D2OE-6312-BA crank pulley if anybody has one I could buy. Thanks

Pulling sale...
 
Thanks.

some time car will cut all power and even erase my memory from my radio, any idea what would cause this? it only does it some times
 
has new starting noid & clean cables
 
 

Is there a tire treatment that leaves the tire looking like new not shiny like it is covered in grease? I dislike the shiny, wet look and would like to to find a cleaner that leaves the tire looking like the tire did when it was new. Any suggestions? And no, I have not tried any cleaners as I am unsure which one will suit my need.  Thanks.   Dave R.