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Spider69 last won the day on October 1 2015

Spider69 had the most liked content!

About Spider69

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 08/25/1963


  • Location
    Lyon, France
  • Interests
    Mustang of course, motorbikes, poker, have fun
  • Occupation
    Software Company

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  1. Thank you for your reply. I could find someone who has the right tool to finalize the work. I will post some pics when the rear axle is reassembled.
  2. It is possible that with news clutch plates we go no clearance at all? Definitely not easy to unserstand how this works!
  3. Does someone is able to explain me what means the middle column "remove shims from nominal" on the attached pic?
  4. I have ordered Additif Red Line LSD Limited Slip Differential.
  5. OK, I understand, thanks. If it happens I will not be anxious :-)
  6. no one able to confirm the dimensions on the pic attached?
  7. Hi, Not epoxy primer. I used a first primer to avoid rust after having sanded/blasted carefully all the housings. Special primer coming from a french provider "restom" and then a special coating for the same vendor. For sure, I will add "friction modifier", but we have no Chevy dealer in France :-), unfortunately
  8. Hi, Thank you for this detailed information. I have the enclosed pic I took from my book which describes quite well how we have to reassemble each part. What do you mean with "a few pops"? I think I have a standard pack , not a performance one.
  9. For sure, but we miss the tool, the shim template to measure if the clearance is correct and which shim we have to use!! I could find on Internet this drawing, does someone knows it, is this accurate?
  10. Dear all, I have a 69 mach one, on which I have started a complete differential rebuild some weeks ago. New parts and CURRIE axles have been ordered and shipped, axle and carrier housing repeinted, ready to be reassembled. To finalize the operation around the clutch we need to measure the correct clearence for the shim and here we need a Ford Tool T68P-4946-A I guess as shown in the pic enclosed. But we don't have this tool!!!! Does someone knows if we can work without this tool is there a workaround? Thanks in advance for your help
  11. Hi, I own a very nice mach one for more than 4 years now. This car was sold in 69 with a 4 speed gearbox and is now equipped with an automatic fmx gearbox. I have installed last year a shift kit and a new Hughes torque converter. I'm really satisfied but I would like to go for a manual 5 speed gearbox. I know that this is not an easy task, but before starting everything I will gather as much info as possible. I need your advice to select the best gearbox and some useful hints. Thanks in advance for your replies
  12. Thanks a lot for your answers. I will try to remove the frame bushings and install correctly the end links and then try to fix the frame bushings again. Chris
  13. Hi, I replaced the 2 rubbers and the end links of my standard swaybar (mach one 69). No issue to remove every thing but not so easy to install the new end links. I replaced the old rubbers with polyurethane ones. First of all I fixed the front rubbers and the first end link, not easy to align but it's done. Not the same story for the second one, it was not possible to align correctly the end of the swaybar with the hole in the suspension arm. I could finally fix the second end link and tighten the bolt. But the end link rubbers seems not very well positioned! How can I be sure that the installation is correct? 2/5000
  14. I got today the answer from Pertronix, Coil with 3 ohms resistance is not made for 8cyl, the coil can run out of power over 4000rpm. I will return this one and I found a 1,5ohm fortunately. I replaced the switch ignition and ignition lock, now the engine start and stops well. How can I control that contact is really switched off when I turn the key back? Hope I can drive my pont this weekend.
  15. H​i, I'm back after some vacations and bad surprises around my rebuild adventure . We faced a lot of bad experiences I will post shortly here. The engine was totally finished and ready to be back under the hood. The gearbox was ready as well Every thing was finished and the car was ready for a first test drive. After some few miles smoke came out from the gearbox!!! A needle bearing in the gearbox was completely damaged and we had to start again with the gearbox. It was some weeks ago and the holyday period was close. We could not achieve the car before the vacations. We ordered the new parts and every one was aware about what he had to do and when. Planed was that the car should be finished when I'm back from my vacations. Things do not always go as planned... I stayed in contact with the mechanics during my vacations and every thing seems going well. ​When I came back I decided to go immediately to the garage. ​On the way, I got a call from the mechanics, 'the car doesn't start...' The Pertronix ignition melted and I had to find one quicly. Fortunately, I could find one and we could replace the Pertronix. But the car still doesn't want start! We saw that the coil had exploded, pic here under I could borrow an other coil and return back home with the car. At home I could never restart the car. Diagnose was an ignition issue and I ordered a new at Summit and a new coil to replace the old one. I could only find a coil with 3 ohms resistance instead of 1.5. Pertronix document mentions 1.5 Ohms at least, this should be OK. I got Coil and ignition today, tomorrow I will be on the work. Hoping this is the last thing I have to do in order to drive my car again. By the way if someone can tell me how I can control that when I switch off the ignition it's really switched off.
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