Vicfreg

RWC - What temperature thermostat do you have installed? On the Ford Contour, pretty sure the temperature sensor is in an assembly that includes the thermostat housing.

Same, enjoy!!

I also used the Ford Ranger/Explorer Master Cylinder. The only mod was that the mounting holes had to be slightly enlarged. Can't remember which one, pick the one that has the brake line fitting holes facing out (toward the fender), not in, toward the engine. I used a Wilwood proportioning valve which has the pressure actuated brake light switch, and that gets rid of the brake pedal mounted one. You can see the master cylinder in the picture. I used a dual diaphragm power brake booster, which makes the use of a standard master cylinder a very tight fit to the shock tower. I did that to avoid header interference as I am running a C-6 auto.

Buckeye is correct. My sensor is mounted in line in the bottom radiator hose (outflow) my PMW controller uses that outflow inline sensor as the input, then has the job to regulate the outflow temperature of the radiator by varying the air flow (fan speed) to keep the outflow temperature below the thermostat temperature. This allows the thermostat to regulate coolant temperature going to the engine. With an engine driven fan, the thermostat is in charge of regulating engine temperature. Same idea. Having your electric fans operate off of the thermostat housing temperature can cause the thermostat to cycle open and closed. You can check this with a hand held temperatue sensor.

Thanks all, should be fun. Will post pics of the process. I think 60 days is optimistic..... I hope to get the car back in the fall, which is more realistic.... I may go with a "no stripe" look, not sure yet. Rich, one other question I know I asked you before, but can't find where I filed it... For the door to body wireways, I think you used later model ('71-'73) flexible conduit. Is that right? The hole should be much smaller than the factory 2-1/2" hole on the '69-'70s. Did yo still drill the hole at the "dimple" in the door? Any pics/info would be appreciated.

Finally off to the paint shop after 5 years of working on the car! Will take around 60 days, I have use the shop before, they’re not really fast but they do very high-quality work I will need a recommendation on hood stripes, I’m not sure if I even want to use them, but if I do, looking for best possible quality product that you all have used.

I have a detailed spreadsheet, and wire out for my VHX box, I’ll post over the weekend sometime

Nice article, well done! One comment on the oscilloscope section. Yours has a "mean" value. On some scopes, the mean is calculated based on the cycles (average value of the number of points displayed) that are displayed on the screen. You have about 2-1/2 cycles shown on the screen. Some scopes have what is called a "cycle mean" which give you the true value for one cycle. Would be interesting to see if your scope has that, and if so, how the mean and cycle mean compare.

Wow what a monster. Where do you get the abrasive wheels for that thing?

Good buy.

Like RPM suggested, make sure you have a good PCV path. The PCV hose connection on a basic Holley is under the rear float bowl.

RPM has good advice, imperative you use anti-seize on the stainless threads on the bolts if they are going into aluminum. (timing cover, aluminum heads, intake manifold, etc) Just a little. Wear gloves, it gets everywhere. I use either a QTip or a solder flux brush to apply.

Hey John, I looked for the Bilstein's and you are right, very expensive. I have the KYBs on my '68, I am happy with them. The KONIs are also nice. See below KONI 8250 1030/1031 Mustang Shock Kit STR.T 1965-1970 (cjponyparts.com) KYB Mustang Shock Kit Excel-G 1965-1970 | CJ Pony Parts

Yeah, that's them. My part # is is not right. Brian has the right series, the RCD. That is what SOT has, and what I have on the car. Street or Track LLC > Shock Absorbers > Bilstein front shock for 67-70 Mustang, 69-77 Maverick - Street valving Street or Track LLC > Shock Absorbers > Bilstein rear shock for 65-73 Mustang, 60-65 Falcon, 67-70 Cougar & 62-65 Fairlane Hope things up there in Calgary are good. Ice finally melting here in Port Huron......

2006 Ford Mustang GT 4.6 3V Engine Computer Module ECM ECU / 6R3A-12A650-XB | eBay 2006 FORD MUSTANG GT COMPUTER & KEY 4.6 3v AUTOMATIC ECU ECM 6R3A-12A650-XB | eBay

Try this.... Ford 4.6L ITB Intake – ShiftKits Australia

If you assume the O2 sensors are working correctly, then you may have a bad fuel pressure regulator causing you to run rich. Or, one of the engine temperature sensors is not working and is failed low, telling the EFI to run rich.

Nice. What did you decide on the floor coating...?

Nice Work

I have 2 1970 fenders if you are interested IM me.

Hey Bob, mine is already mounted to the side, along with all my fuses, solenoid, and master disconnect. I think I am going to build a box of some sort that I can remove and get access to that stuff. Still pondering that, thanks for your pics.

Mine is going to paint with the entire power train in, dash out, and doors, fenders, and hood off. My body guy will then install all the body panel and line them up, then shoot the clear coat. after that, install weather stripping, and back to me . My engine compartment and undercarriage are already painted. Also, if you do this, make sure you run the engine and test for leaks. All I will do when I get the car back is bolt on trim, bumpers, lights, windows etc. No matter how careful you are, it is too easy to scratch/dent/scrape new paint when trying to install the engine. Plus the hood has to be off.

My convertible stock mounts and mounting location for my small block look to be identical to the replacement mounts I originally got. I tried lowered mounts to help with some header clearance, but like Bob, there were many little things that caused me to abandon that. Number one reason was interference with my header and steering box. If anything, the convertibles would be slightly higher, not lower, as they have the mounting plate that connects the floor pans, and with a stock install, there is not much clearance between the driveshaft and that plate. I would take a 1/2 inch off of that spacer plate if you could. I don't recall my 5.0 having one of them. Just check the clearance between the intake down turn and the drivers side valve cover before you do that.

Oh, found the picture of the rear suspension with the Bilstein's installed....

I have Bilstein rear shocks on my '70 convertible. They are 46mm gas-filled, model E4-WM5-Y346A00 I think I got them from Street or Track