unilec

Did you have to grind down one side of the front of the starter and have you had issues with the solenoid touching the steering arm, I believe some have issues with this?

Car looks awesome and love the color, are you thinking about lowering the car a bit?

Nice progress, photos a bit small though. I made the firewall for my 65 from sheet metal, so there is only two pieces to the firewall, other wise it can look like a patch work quilt.

Not sure if you are on this website, but a lot of good info here just join and post a similar question. http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/

the operation of the clock is a basic one, it has a solenoid that when the contact closes rewinds the main spring, the contact may be dirty and need cleaning, another issue is the original lubricant may have dried out. Try spaying the mechanism with WD40, sometimes that will fix this issue. The clock is 12vdc so you can fix it outside of the car.

OK, so seems that you are removing a lot of panels, so maybe a good idea to mount the body onto a support frame as well as braces. Start a build thread with lots of photos as a project, you will get a lot more help there.

Just remember to weld braces in to support the car body shape, once you start to remove panel its easy for the body line to distort.

It really needs replacing, if you can find a used one in good condition that would be better. Do you have the floor out as well?

Maybe post a couple of photos, just so we have more of an idea of the issue?

So have you changed the alternator? From memory there is a contact in the alternator regulator that supplies one side of the light, should be green with a red stripe wire, the other side of the light is fed from the fuse panel.

So you are saying the car won't fire at all? Could be the timing has shifted or the carb is flooding.

Awesome colour, can't wait to see how it pops in the sun.

Coming along nicely, what springs and shocks are you going for in the front?

You need to know what the volt drop is when you try to start the car. Put you meter across the battery and see what the volt drop is, could just be a bad battery.

So if you fit mini tubs, do you also need to shorten the axle?

Do you have any photo's of the shaved door handles?

Cars looking awesome, it will certainly be a one of a kind when your finished.

Unfortunately this is a common problem, at least you horn button is not falling off in your lap. You can try covering the wires in heat shrink or electrical tape and covering the metal parts with insulation tape. Its just trial and error so find a quiet time and take the button apart, you may be able to identify the problem and use some type of insulation to solve your problem.

It sounds like the issue is a wire shorting out in the horn button, what make of wheel and horn are you using?

The 1406 carbs are a basic carb based on the old carter carbs, so it may or may not be the issue. I would be looking at the electronic distributer as a possible cause. Most electronic distributers need a full 12v to operate correctly so check into that and you may need to remove the resistor wire at the ignition switch. Can you try to refit your original distributer.

So your saying the local ones are rubbish, such as this one? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mustang-70-Hood-Bonnet-Moulding-/282184602268?hash=item41b383529c:m:m8NAJLt09v1-bGUT_pN98rg

Maybe better to have your original calipers rebuilt and resleeved with stainless steel inserts. One of the best upgrades is better quality brake pads.

If you read this article it mentions that you need to cut the inner shaft to suit. I would cut at the bottom coupling point and then have it professionally welded. http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/drivetrain/mump-1003-how-to-install-integral-power-steering-gear/

Rear bumper looks awesome, so is that fiberglass or a modified steel one?

That's awesome, wish I had one at home, trying to bend plate in a vice just isn't the same.