1969_Mach1

You know I kept wondering why these types of Ford "Down Flow" radiators were being referred to as Cross Flow. Down Flow ===> vertical tubes, Cross Flow ===> horizontal tubes.

If the oil pump is leaking where is attaches to the block, it still should not cause an external leak. What about leaking where the oil pressure sender attaches to the block? Or the oil filter? If it's not those or the timing cover seal, the only item remaining in that area is the front end seal portion of the oil pan gasket. Make certain the leak isn't running down from further above.

When you make the change to a 1970 setup, in addition to radiator, water pump, damper, timing pointer, and pulleys, to be a correct conversion I think you will also need the accessory mounting brackets for a 1970. If not, I think you will find seeing the timing marks and pointer rather difficult. Plus, it will then look correct.

Yeah, the early Windsor timing chain covers were like. On later model and replacement timing covers the front crank seal installs from the front not the back. It's worth the upgrade unless you want the original look. But, I think he is working with a Cleveland motor.

Sealant will not help on a rotating part. If it's leaking between the damper and seal there is something wrong. Did you accidentally get a seal for use with a repair sleeve? I'd get another seal, maybe a different brand from a different source. It should fit slightly snug on the damper. I'm not familiar with Clevelands, but, make certain the timing cover is centered on the damper.

My first guess would be something is wrong with the new regulator. I'd also check the voltage output from the stator terminal on the alternator and the where it connects to the voltage regulator. Stator terminal voltage should be at least half of the charging system voltage. As you can see, the stator voltage from the alternator closes contacts inside the voltage regulator allowing battery voltage tp pass through terminal "A" on the voltage regulator and back-feed the charge indicator light. Thus the end result is equal voltage on both sides of the light, which stops current flow through the light, and turns it off.

If your 69 heads are good, that would be a better choice for the 89 351W. I don't think the Duraspark ignition in that 89 would work for an older car. I think by 1989 mechanical and vacuum advance distributors were no longer being used. Ignition timing advance was computer controlled by 1989. I wouldn't bother with that overdrive transmission. It is probably an AODE and those were kind of problematic back then, early shifting, stacking shifts, etc., at least in stock form. The later 4R70W is a better option. I'd hang on to that trans. Maybe you can find a trans shop that knows how to sort out all those issues.

Noticing the low oil pressure now, did you prime the oil pump with a drill prior to starting the motor? Is it the stock oil pressure gauge? If so, I've had problems with some oil pressure sending units causing a low reading on the gauge. I've had best luck with Standard brand oil pressure sending units. The Motorcraft brand sending units being sold for these cars caused my stock gauge to indicate low pressure when a mechanical gauge would show 55-60 psi. If you have a mechanical gauge it might be worth quickly connecting it to check the oil pressure before going further. With the lifters clattering is the top end oiling okay?

If you took the time to correctly degree the camshaft, now I wonder. Are you using a Pertronix distributor or just the assembly that replaces the ignition points in a stock distributor? If it's the later, I have heard of those causing odd ignition timing issues. If I understand the cranking cadence you are describing, it's indicative of a cylinder or two with little compression. On an older motor that's concerning. On a new motor it's most often caused by hydraulic lifters that are not yet pumped up. I have seen motors run when the timing chain is loose and jumped one tooth. The motor runs, but barely, and while cranking the motor has an odd rhythm to it. Difficult to describe, but it's not normal-normal-normal-skip-normal-normal-normal-skip-normal . . . I'm curious what you find?

Maybe the outer ring on the balancer is slipping?

How did you not get the marks lined up on the timing gears? It's fairly obvious when they are off one tooth. Plus, if your timing chain is installed wrong the rhythm will sound odd when cranking the motor. Is it something simple like the inductive pick-up on the timing light is connected to the wrong spark plug wire? When you installed the distributor was #1 cylinder on TDC compression stroke or TDC overlap stroke? Merely sticking something in the spark plug hole to monitor piston movement and checking the timing marks on the balancer and pointer will not confirm which it is.

To me it looks like the dash is dimpled and not flat where that park brake light is installed? Or is that a special bezel for the park brake light and the dash is flat in that area?

Like Barnett mentioned, first determine where the leak is coming from. Clean up that mess, run the motor, drive the car a few miles and double check. I'd also check the trans fluid just to be certain coolant is not getting into the trans fluid from a leaking trans cooler inside the radiator. These work good for stopping minor coolant leaks and do not clog cooling systems. They will make the coolant look a little muddy in color.

Are you certain it was all 4sp Mustangs in 69 and 70? Or are you referring to 428 Mustangs with a 4sp in 69 and 70? Because you could get a 302 or 351W with a 4sp, I'm not certain those would have come with or needed staggered rear shocks.

I realized it was a small block Chevy. But, I can't believe how they made those exhaust manifolds. I guess they took a cue from Roadkill.

Are those exhaust manifolds made from square tube steel?

These guys don't restore like you might be accustomed to. But, their show, Roadkill, is great. I watch it every week. They pulled that Mach 1 out of a wrecking yard on an earlier episode. They worked on it in the wrecking yard for a few days to get it running and driving and drove it out.

The back of the car is so tall because of those aftermarket extra long rear shackles. Those should be replaced with stock shackles or stock length shackles. That will help drop the back of the car down.

The old-timer method of fixing sticky lifters (if that's what is causing the tick) is to change the oil and filter and when refilling the oil pour in about a half quart of ATF. In real bad cases I've heard of a full quart of ATF. Of course make certain the remainder of the motor oil is the type with high ZDDP content if you have a flat tappet cam. The ATF has a lot of detergent in it. If it were mine, I'd change the oil and filter again after soon after the lifter noise stopped to get the ATF out of the motor. I've done it a couple of times on old motors and it worked both times. As far as those thick carb base gaskets, avoid the type that are coated with a black tar-like coating. When it gets hot it sticks to the carb and intake badly. I just purchased two of those thick gaskets made by Holley and they are nice, no black tar-like coating. Also, if you have a dual plane intake, get the thick gasket with a center divider.

When you say it has spark, is that spark out of the coil, spark at the spark plugs, or both? If you pull the plugs and it's getting fuel they should be wet with fuel. Does it sound normal, you know does it have the same rhythm when each cylinder is on compression during cranking? If you have an MSD ignition system are you checking spark with something like this below? Notice there is no center electrode sticking out of that spark tester. Your MSD ignition system should be able to jump that huge gap. There is another model spark tester with a center electrode for points type ignition systems.

I agree, sell the convertible and keep the sportsroof.

In 1988, the 351W is not a roller block. 1995 was the first year Ford installed 351W roller blocks in vehicles. I believe the casting number for 351W roller blocks starts with an E4. Good luck with a cam selection. Howard's Cams has a fairly large off the shelf selection.

My bumpers were from Scott Drake. I purchased them and hardware kits through Summit Racing. They fit as good as the originals and the chrome is great (but not show chrome). The first front bumper had a small ding in it. Summit Racing had a replacement to me the next day and also a call tag for UPS pick up on the defective bumper. My guess is most reproduction bumpers for these cars come from the same overseas manufacturer.

Where did you find an NOS distributor? I'd like one for a backup. I like my MSD setup but my confidence level with it isn't the highest. Watch your engine temps during the initial break in period. Sometimes they creep up higher than normal during that time. Have an electric box fan or something ready in case you need more air flow through the radiator to be safe if needed.

However you run the lines, the filter should be between the pump and the carb. Not on the suction side of the pump. There is already a filter screen on the end of the pickup tube inside the tank to stop large particles.