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Everything posted by 1969_Mach1

  1. Yeah, that's the correct setup for a PCV system. I can't give you a part number for a good PCV valve to use. I might be wrong, but I was taught they vary a little depending on engine size. I ended up with one for a Chevrolet only because it has a short 90 degree elbow on top of it so it easily clears the export brace. If you don't want a PCV spec'd for a Chevrolet you can remove the elbow and put it on another PCV valve if needed.
  2. RogerC and RPM have it correct. For factory manual brakes the pivot is lower, closer to the where the master cylinder push rod attaches to the pedal to reduce pedal effort.
  3. I have milled 0.200" from the carb pad of a Victor Jr. to gain a little more hood clearance. I can tell you, the carb pad is horizontal, no slope to it at all. Why, I don't know. I wouldn't use that as a reference to set your motor and trans angle. If you want a level carb pad I have seen some tapered spacers on Summit Racing's website. I might have missed something, but it seems when the drop motor mounts are being installed, vibration issues pop up.
  4. For power brakes, the 69 and 70 use different brake pedals. Not certain about manual brakes.
  5. Is there a stronger mid-eye leaf spring that will raise the rear of the car a little? Maybe a 5 leaf mid-eye spring? That's what I use.
  6. I think as long as there is enough weld area and in the right locations, MIG welding is just fine. The guy that did the metal and body on my Mach 1 used a MIG welder to replace the shock towers and right front inner fender panel. Nothing wrong with it. He simply used plug welds where spot welds originally were and continuous beads elsewhere where needed. I'm fine with it.
  7. Is your sketch correct or am I not reading it correct? It looks like the pinion centerline is above the engine -trans centerline. I'm no expert on this topic by any means so I'm not saying you cannot sort through it. You probably recognize by now all the things that added up to the issue, lowering the motor 1", lowering the car 4", installing a longer than original trans. Maybe I'm getting too old, at some point in my mind I think all the mods aren't worth the troubles they sometimes cause.
  8. With your auto trans, measuring through the starter opening, it should be 3/4" ( or very close to it) from the surface the starter seats against on the separator plate to the face of the flexplate teeth.
  9. I don't know about bending the flex plate. With the starter removed I rig something to check the runout of the flex plate while rotating the crank from the balancer bolt. You did remember to install the separator plate between the engine block and the trans?
  10. I'm looking at tires as well to replace my 24 year old Goodyear Eagle GTII on stock 14 x 6 Chrome Styles Steel Wheels. I'd like new 15 x 7 wheels as well but I think that's out of the question right now. For 14" tires your choices pretty much narrow down to BF Goodrich TA's or Cooper Cobra's. I currently have 215/70R-14's but I'm thinking of going with Cooper Cobra 225/70R-14's. Looking at Mike65's coupe above, I see the 225's he has on the stock 6" wide rear wheels fit pretty good. Summit Racing gives wheel width recommendations for tire sizes. As well as the tire height, width, and other specs. It's a pretty good starting point to see what fits your wheels. Then you need to consider the ride height, stock lowered, etc.
  11. I know Pyranees are large dogs. But, are you sure it's two weeks? To the best of my knowledge at two weeks puppies are nursing. Most puppies are not ready to be separated until at least 6 weeks old. Partly because of shots they should have. Or are Pyranees different?
  12. You might be on to something there. But how much is your car lowered? Mine is lowered 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" with 5 leaf mid-eye rear springs and 600 lb./in. front coils from Mustangs Plus. It doesn't have any vibration issues. But I am still using the top loader 4sp trans. Back in 1980's my older brothers 69 Mach 1 was also lowered about 1-1/2" and it had no vibration issues. But again that car still had the original FMX trans. Is it maybe a combination of a lowered car and a trans swap to a later model overdrive trans that is longer than original? Just guessing, I don't know. I honestly never had to chase those types of issues.
  13. Thanks. All metal parts being charcoal is what I was thinking. It is a factory black interior car. The steering column is the only thing I recall didn't look like it was a solid black. The lower dash was speckled with rust so I couldn't determine exactly what it was. Back when I did the interior I wasn't aware of the charcoal color and used SEM Satin Black interior paint.
  14. On my 1969 Mach 1 with black interior, I have now noticed that NPD sells both Satin Black and Dark Charcoal Metallic interior paint for 1969 model year Mustangs. I am now agreeing with past threads that the Dark Charcoal Metallic is correct. But what parts of the interior are Dark Charcoal Metallic? Is it only the metal parts, i.e. the steering column and lower dash? Or is it everything except the seats, dash pad, and door panels? I'm asking because if it's only the metal parts I might do that to make it more correct.
  15. The Z-bar JBA sells almost looks like it's for the 10.5" clutch used on 302 motors and not the 11" clutch used on 351W motors. I guess you'd have to try it to find out of it works.
  16. Flanders, it could be. JBA didn't have the 1655 versions when I purchased mine. Now that I see them, I wonder if the drivers side of the 1655's would fit better than the 1653's with stock power steering and stock Z-bar clutch linkage.
  17. I have the 1653S headers on a 1969 Mach 1, 351W, 4sp with factory Z-bar clutch linkage, and Borgeson power steering. The headers fit fine. Before going with Borgeson power steering I tried reinstalling my stock power steering. I noticed the drivers side collector dumped almost directly on top of the power steering ram. With 2-1/2" exhaust it didn't look like there was enough space to easily route the exhaust through there. With the stock Z-bar and no power steering ram there is a lot of space for the exhaust. nymustang1969 got exhaust to fit on his with stock P/S and stock clutch linkage so I'm sure it can be done. Maybe he has a picture of it. I'm curious how it all fits together.
  18. Those band clamps look like the cheaper bands for what are known as a Tri-Clamp setup for process piping. There are ferules (or flanges) welded to each tube, an o-ring type gasket in the middle to seal the connection, and the band clamp that cinches everything together. I'm always amazed when car builders use this stuff on things like exhaust and they think they are using trick new technology. But it's been around for probably 30+ years for process piping and they're actually using some of the cheaper components on cars.
  19. Why not just use all rubber heater hose? Get the type with molded 90 degree ends where needed. By the time you have hose-stainless tube-hose plus all those clamps it won't look any cleaner, just different. Might be making more work than needed. Plus stainless conducts heat much faster than aluminum or steel so those tubes will get extremely hot. I ran my heater hoses along the right shock tower and strapped them to the export brace. It gets them off the motor so the motor looks a little less cluttered. I needed the type with a 90 degree molded end for the firewall end where they attach to the heater core.
  20. Had two back in the early-mid 1980's. One behind a 351W and another behind a 390. Never had any leaking issues back then. They worked great and can take a fair amount of abuse in stock form. I think something is being overlooked, seal not fitting very well, shaft worn, bore worn so shaft wobbles to much.
  21. With the ridiculous high prices for reproduction parts, and parts in general for these cars, I'm surprised somebody is drawing the line at oil pans.
  22. To the best of my knowledge, there is not a resistor wire in the circuit for the constant voltage regulator. If it is a factory tach IP car then there are two resistor wires. (1) for the ignition coil from the tachometer. (2) one 15 ohm resistor wire parallel to the charge indicator light. The non-tach IP cars have only the resistor wire for the ignition coil. Does the fuel gauge work? If so, then the constant voltage regulator is working and I'd suspect bad connections to the printed circuit panel, the printed circuit panel, or bad connections between the gauges and printed circuit panel.
  23. Yes, AN is 37 degrees and seal much better with less torque on the fitting than inverted flare which is 45 degrees. I fought inverted flare fittings on my fuel lines for years. They would seal fine, then will not seal the next time a fitting was disconnected and reconnected. At least so far, no more leaking issues since switching to AN fittings.
  24. I went through that same thing myself many years ago because I don't really have a lot of confidence with hose clamps on the pressure side. I originally put the filter the same place you did. Fits good and is convenient. Then I realized that car mfgs. never did that so I found a couple of articles, one was from BG Carbs. The gist of it was with mechanical fuel pumps it's more difficult for the pump to draw fuel through a filter than push it through on the pressure side. What you did works fine most of the time. I guess there is some potential for the maximum flow rate to be reduced some with the filter on the suction side. I ended up with a filter and a hard line from the pump to the carb, all with AN fittings. Doesn't look original but has been very reliable. I made certain I purchased a filter that had higher a higher flow rate capacity than the pump.
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