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ThePoose

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About ThePoose

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  • Birthday 10/19/1967

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    Portland, Oregon

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  1. I found a nearly exact match to the original at Ace Hardware, assuming all Ace Hardware have the same spring offerings. My local one has a rack of drawers with different size springs. You'll also want something to hold the spring in place and give it something to push against. I used a rubber grommet.
  2. Yes, I was referring to the bottom plate. My bottom plates are non-staggered, and I pulled the factory shocks out of this over 30 years ago. So, if all 4-speeds were supposed to have staggered shocks, mine has the upper mount but never had the staggered shocks installed. Like Ridge said, maybe sometimes they just grabbed what they had on hand.
  3. I was asking more out of curiosity. Because even though mine has that upper mount, it doesn't have the shackle with the lower mount. Just the standard shock setup. Doesn't affect me moving forward. Thanks.
  4. It's an M code 4-speed car. So would all 4-speed cars have used the staggered mount? The lower mounting plate on the shackles is set up for the front shock mount. Carefully was a bit of a joke. I guess this is what the instructions meant by "some clearance adjustment may be necessary." I'm also calling Chris Alston Chassisworks before I cut anything. It seems like they would specifically call out this step for four speed cars if it's that common.
  5. Sorry, didn't know how to title this. In my build thread, a number of you noticed my car had big block shock towers. I was working on installing the upper rack for my TCP rear coilover suspension yesterday and it wouldn't fit. This was in the way: I'd never given it much thought before and always assumed every 69 had this staggered shock mount. (I'm pretty sure that's what it is). After a little internet digging, it looks like it was only on CJ/SCJ cars. I can understand why TCP wouldn't have engineered for this. Before I start carefully removing this, I had a couple of questions: 1 -- Is there any issue with removing it structurally? I doesn't seem to be, but I'm not overly familiar with big block cars. 2 -- Is it hurting any value? This is definitely an M code car. The VIN, data plate and build sheet all confirm this. Other than being an oddity, it doesn't seem to matter. It doesn't have any other CJ/SCJ components. 3 -- Do I need to carefully remove it? I assume this is a fairly rare piece, but enough that it could fund a few hundred bucks toward the project? Or to just keep in a box with all of the other original parts? It's solid, other than some surface rust. To get the cradle to fit, I'd just have to clearance the areas where the plate touches the frame rail and cut off part of that upper shock mount. Given that there's about 30 spot welds in it, removing will take a while. Thanks for your thoughts.
  6. Saved up for one of these as a Christmas present to myself. Wanted it for years and wondered why I waited so long. The only thing worse that cleaning the underside is doing it on your back. Not the wheels that will be on the car, just using the wheels off my son's 2003 Mach 1 that have been sitting in my garage for two years. Cleaned off all the old undercoating and seam sealer. Removing fifty years of gunk and grime suuuuucks. Added new seam sealer. Still some more prep then prime and paint. I'm on the fence whether to add Raptor liner to the bottom. I don't expect I'll be driving it in anything but the best weather, but the liner is easy to clean and will help hide ugly welds that are coming with the subframe connectors and rear suspension.
  7. Here is the TCP power rack installed. That sticker is coming off. Power booster rebuilt and installed. Stainless front brake lines in. Baer master and prop temporarily installed. Mounting base for hydraulic clutch mounted beneath that. From the back. It's a really nice piece. It ought to be. Probably the nicest it will ever look.
  8. The TCP coil-over parts finally arrived and installed. I had the spindles powder coated black. I liked how they sort of disappeared and let the expensive suspension shine through. 13-inch Baer disc brakes added. I have some more pictures to take tonight of the TCP rack.
  9. It's been a while. Work has been crazy and when the photos all disappeared, I was a little demotivated. So in the past year, I stripped and refinished the engine compartment. Self-etching primer, then gray primer. Then semi-gloss black.
  10. Thanks. I was/am going to call Baer, but wanted to check here first since there's so much model-specific knowledge. Can't do that until Thursday, but I am in a four-day meeting and can pretend I'm answering emails. I wasn't too worried about gutting because NPD has rebuild kits. But it's probably best just to remove it from the system. Put it in a ziploc bag and in the container bin with the rest of the stock parts.
  11. Installing Baer four wheel discs on my factory disc-equipped Mach. I have the adjustable proportioning valve for the Baers and as I was cleaning up my distribution block, making it look pretty, it dawned on my I probably don't want two proportioning valves. Since the Baer valve is ahead of the factory valve, it seems that the factory valve would cancel any adjustments. Question is: Can I cap off the two ports that route to and from the valve as shown in the picture or gut the factory valve so it's pass through (keeping it there just reduces my chances of losing it should I want it later)? Or is it fine to leave the factory valve in place as is? The factory system seems fairly basic, but want to make sure I don't jack anything up. Thanks.
  12. Nice, I was just looking at EFI tanks. I like the idea of not having to run the fuel lines into the trunk. Just have to wait until fall. Thanks for the link.
  13. I don't think so. Judging by the pictures on Summit, it looks like the wider, flatter design that's on my automatic. I don't imagine it's a couple of inches smaller in diameter, and if not, it won't clear the hydraulic clutch linkage on my car. I was hoping you'd discover the Holy Grail that would let me use the Wildwood master cylinder. Thanks, though.
  14. I have installed the oil galley plugs. I haven't bought the distributor gear yet. I haven't even decided on which distributor. Mainly because I was hoping to get one that works with the EFI for timing control, but I've been reading about technical issues with that feature. I didn't have a preference on the pushrods, so I appreciate the Howards suggestion.
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