barnett468

ok, you should run a separate air line to each shock if you keep the air shocks and they will still occasionally hit unless you increase the length of the bottoming rubbers.
also, welding a thick fender washer to the top shock hole will virtually eliminate any possibly of cracking the body there . you can also put one on the bottom instead.
 

You do not need a fancy system for what you are using the car for. 
All you are buying is bling is the way it looks to me.
if you use good quality components, lower the upper A arms , sway bar and add eibach variable rate coils you will be in good shape. Way under the $2500 mark
 
basically i have my car set up similar to the Shelby R model and I have had it on the track at 143mph with no trouble
 
bob

Like Barnett468 said, what engine do you have?  If you have a car with staggered rear shocks like my 428 CJ Mach 1, there is only one performance kit option for staggered shocks that I know of.  If you have a mild 302 and don't have plans to add more power, you might not need a 21/2 inch pipe.  21/4 might work better.

I couldn't hear any noises from the rear axle or trans using my stethoscope with it running on jack stands in any gear.  Probably because of no drivetrain load.  I think I'll go back to the 3.89 rear axle gears that I don't recall having any noise issues with.  I'll post the results after that.

Did you put a main jet in the head to reduce oil flow?

The reason we could only lease the 2 1968 GT500 with 427's was Shelby wanted full control of the 26 he produced. When both of these cars were wrecked & totaled by the insurance company he made them crush the cars, we were told he didn't want any salvage titles associated with his name. Ford states some 3 dozen were made I was told when we leased them that 26 were made.
 
From Ford Racing History:
 
But the 390 was just too slow-revving and mild-mannered for the serious Ford horsepower buffs. And even though Carroll Shelby was offering Ford's 428 cubic-inch "Police Interceptor" big-block in his upmarket GT500 Mustang model, the motoring press still wasn’t that impressed when compared to the big-motored Chevies, Pontiacs and Mopars. So later that model year, Shelby reportedly decided to go all-out and build some three dozen GT500s with Ford's premier race engine underhood – the 427 big-block.
 
Carroll Shelby was less involved in the design of the ’69 model, and a combination of slower sales and creative differences caused the Shelby-Ford partnership to end in the summer of 1969. Leftover ‘69s were sold as ‘70s, and Shelby only produced his special brand of Mustangs per the request of a Belgian Shelby dealer for the next two years. These ’71 and ’72 models were known as “Shelby Europas†and were exclusive to Europe.

I'm pretty sure putting a cheby part on your Mustang is a felony and grounds for immediate arrest.

your probably better off buying one from the west.

For the record, there are two resistor wires, and I gave the OP misinformation.  The first resistor wire of 10.0 ohms, runs from ACC to the CVR input pin on the dash cluster.  The second resistor wire, specific to tach dashes or dashes with alternator indicator lamps, also runs from ACC power but goes to a pin on the fuse box connector that mates with the headlight harness.  Typically, both resistor wires start near the ignition switch: one at the pin itself and another at a factory OEM splice a few inches above the ignition switch connector. 
 
There's a third resistor wire of 1.5 ohms: the infamous pink resistor wire that chokes the coil voltage and current.
 
I'm putting my money on the idea that the ignition switch connector had to be changed sometime in the past, and this tach specific wire was not spliced back in or fell out of the crimp.  It cannot be soldered, and being a single wire strand, is difficult to crimp by itself.  It has to be reinforced with another wire segment when crimping; the other end of this section of wire goes nowhere, explaining the black wire on the dash cluster pin that is loose by itself when the tape is unraveled.

yes, timing and tuning cam affect vacuum a little but it's best if you know someone that can time the car by ear and, also recurve the distributor if needed . i can post one method to do both of these later if you want to try it but you need a timing light and a vacuum gauge and/or tach would also be helpful, however, this will NOT get you a lot more vacuum so it will not cure your new trans problem.

Xlnt!

Ill list out my build below.
My shit gets beat on every time my ass hits the seat, and like you I wanted as much HP as I could get and still be street friendly in terms of Idle because I run an automatic trans with a tight converter along with AC... My specifications were Pump gas friendly, Decent idle in drive with AC on, Max Hp I could get with off the shelf parts and I wanted a large smooth HP/torque curve...... We get 87, 91, 93 octane here in Louisiana and its mostly all been cut with 10% or more ethanol as stated at the pump.... My car runs fine on 91 &93 altho I usually stick to 93.
 
Anyhow here is how I am set up.
 
Trans is a built 4R70W with 2800 stall controlled by a Bauman controller, rear end is a 9" with 3.73 Trac Loc and Caltracs, I have Factory Auto Air for Heating and Cooling and don't us a kick up solenoid to control Idle with the ac on, Also have Power steering as well. 
Motor is as follows.
408 Cubes, Block is from a 95 Ford Lightning so it was a factory roller block.
Short Block Consists of Eagle Forged Crank, I-Beam Forged Rods, Ross Pistons, and a Main Girdle with ARP Studs.
Heads are Box Stock AFR 205's (these are the older Nitrous Ported version which are a CNC version if I recall, they are now called outlaw heads I think. I have flow sheets from the heads if you wanna see Real flow numbers off a Super Flow bench.
The springs were changed to match the Comp Hyd Roller Cam that we had Comp Grind as well. Valves are stock untouched from AFR.
The Camshaft is a Comp Custom Hyd Roller grind and the specs are 228/236@50 with 563/571 Lift and ground on a 113 LSA.
I run the Stock Style Hyd Roller lifters for Ford Motorsports along with the stock style retainer and dog bones.. both of which were bought new so I did not use the old spider and dog bones from the motor when I got it.
The intake is an Edelbrock Vic Jr unported but it matched the AFR heads to a T somehow...Carb is an 850 Holley Dbl pumper W/Manual secondaries.
Headers are FRP stepped from 1-3/4" to 1-7/8" into a 3" collector if I recall.
 
We dynode the motor with an HP 950 Carb and 1-7/8 or 2" primary headers on 93 octane pump gas and it responded to the tune of 550.9hp on motor and 659hp on a 125 shot of gas....Torque was over 500lbft at like 4000 RPM's I think? I would have to pull dyno sheets to verify that tho. 
 
All and all I could not ask for a better street friendly pavement pounder that I would drive anywhere.
I have driven the car to and from Cruising the Coast 3 years running, did some of the Hot Rod power tour and recently ran a poker run from Houston to Lake Charles LA with some high end exotics and this motor has been problem free except for the time I had converter issues and burnt the thrust bearing out, but that was MY fault.
Oh I get an average of 20 mpg with the 850 carb and OD transmission Btw LOL.
I have videos of the Idle in park and in drive if you wanna see them... it has become a little to mellow for me and I am wanting to possibly do a cam swap to something more aggressive sounding LOL...
It idles right at 650 RPM's in gear with the AC on and has a nice smooth lope to it hehe

Sorry can't help myself.  I agree with both of you.  Barnett did say if you were doing a stock car the correct paint would sell better, I'd have to agree.  But, I think it to be true, if it's not a restoration or stock then it won't matter.  I also agree that a modified 69 will probably be worth more then a stock one.  However, how many cents on the dollar will it raise the price versus the cost? Does 15k in mods equate 7.5k more in value? I also agree a stock would be much easier to sell.  It's also easier to come up with 15k for a driver vs 40k for a heavily modified mustang.  Even a dunce like me can take a hour on google and figure out what I am looking at on a stock car.  With that said, I like them modified better and that's what I am doing mine.  So, in my unofficial opinion, the pissing match is a tie.
 
MikeStang I love that green.  I am pondering a darker green on mine at some point.  

We need a bit more info as to exactly what you want the engine to run like . As far as the kits go, I typically use individual pieces from Eagle then use 4032 material pistons . The probe pistons that come with the kits are 2618 material . You can also typically get away with using a cam that has less than .600 lift if you use pistons designed for conventional heads with the 11r heads . The 11r heads are typically an xlnt all around head for a street engine and so are the AFR 195 heads but the AFR's are very expensive now.
 
The Eddy RPM and Air Gap intakes are the most common ones to use.
 
I would have that trans modified if you plan to speed shift it.

if you drive a lot i would get the size you prefer irregardless of whether it "blocks" the gauges or not. because other than the speedometer which you can still see if you need to, one rarely looks at the gauges but their hands are always on the steering wheel.

Apparently your exhaust system is too quiet :)

NPD - Eaton Springs

what is your exhaust?
 
who told you to use a 950?
 
who made that cam?
 
throw that girly cam in the trash and get a mans cam
 
780 with NO CHOKE
 
set your timing CURVE for optimal perf.

this will work fine with that wimpy cam
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-sq-750-vs/overview/

Thanks for the info . If you were to put a different cam in it like the first one I posted or a similar one, I would keep the carb you have and try it first to see if you like the way it runs as this might save you some money . If you want the best throttle response you can get with a bigger cam I would consider a quick fuel mechanical secondary annular booster 850 carb with the optional slow secondary linkage rod, unfortunately that carb is not cheap.
 
The first cam I posted is a popular one for 410 and 418 ford strokers etc so it is nothing unusual and would be considered about in the middle for a performance street cam , some people that want much more of a street strip car and fairly nasty/rough idle would use a bigger one.
 
I would also try your engine with a 1" spacer if you have hood clearance . I think you will find that you will gain some power but you my need a drop down air cleaner for clearance which would put the lid very close to the top of the choke housing which will cost some hp which is one reason why you should not run a choke.

It depends on what you want the engine to do and what trans and gear ratio you have etc . It is possible that the cam is contributing to part of what you are complaining about but we would need a lot more info to determine that . I can also tell you that a 20 degree difference in duration in the lobes is massive and that "should" be less than optimal for your app and it could be causing some problem . I have never seen that much in my life and I have seen a LOT of cams, plus the ratio of intake to exhaust flow is fairly high on those heads and the typical rule of thumb is that the closer the flow ratio is, the closer the duration the in and ex lobes can be to each other . Maybe around 90% of the cams made have no more than 8 degrees difference in duration @ .050 lift . A few have 12 but the ones with 12 are getting into being more for a highly specialized app like for turbos etc.
 
It often happens that people have a problem with their engine but are attributing it to the wrong part and are therefor asking the wrong questions . This isn't suggesting that your carb is not part of the problem . It is merely to suggest that there may be others like the cam in addition to the carb.
 
My guess is that your cam has only 10 degrees difference in duration and that you either made a typo or "misremembered" what it actually is, but even if it is only 10, it is still slightly more than what would typically be used on those heads unless the exhaust system was excessively restrictive which is why I asked what your exhaust system was.
..

It depends on what you want the engine to do and what trans and gear ratio you have etc . It is possible that the cam is contributing to part of what you are complaining about but we would need a lot more info to determine that . I can also tell you that a 20 degree difference in duration in the lobes is massive and that "should" be less than optimal for your app and it could be causing some problem . I have never seen that much in my life and I have seen a LOT of cams, plus the ratio of intake to exhaust flow is fairly high on those heads and the typical rule of thumb is that the closer the flow ratio is, the closer the duration the in and ex lobes can be to each other . Maybe around 90% of the cams made have no more than 8 degrees difference in duration @ .050 lift . A few have 12 but the ones with 12 are getting into being more for a highly specialized app like for turbos etc.
 
It often happens that people have a problem with their engine but are attributing it to the wrong part and are therefor asking the wrong questions . This isn't suggesting that your carb is not part of the problem . It is merely to suggest that there may be others like the cam in addition to the carb.
 
My guess is that your cam has only 10 degrees difference in duration and that you either made a typo or "misremembered" what it actually is, but even if it is only 10, it is still slightly more than what would typically be used on those heads unless the exhaust system was excessively restrictive which is why I asked what your exhaust system was.
..

You are misinterpreting the "tone" of my responses/comments, plus, they are clearly in reference to the cam, not the car which is why I asked the question . They are also meant to be humorous while suggesting that there might be a better cam for his app, however, I do realize that unfortunately, some people have no sense of humor.

well unfortunately the fact that it does not show how to install the brackets so they align with each other and are at the proper angle to the glass does little to help the people that have brackets that fit slopily on the glass.