69 Mach Glue in Door Glass

[Caseyrhe 650]

I have watched the video on the WCCC website, but one thing I'm not clear on. All 4 of my brackets have been stripped clean in the glass channel. Currently there is quite a bit of room on both side of glass in the channel. When placing the glass in the brackets to glue up;

1) do I first need to buy/install the 1/16 rubber into the bracket that NPD sells?

2) just use more glue, like I believe he states in the WCCC video

 

Then after glueing, does the glass need to have equal distance between both top edges of brackets?

Or ??

[RPM 1,242]

Unless you're buying something else online why make a special order and pay shipping? Use something you have on hand or buy local.

 

Without spacers I don't know how soft for would hold the glass in the proper position.

 

Yes the glass edge and bracket edge need to be parallel.

[Caseyrhe 650]

When you reference on hand or local, what would you be referring to;

Rubber- bicycle intertube strips?

Shims- to keep glass centered in channel with just glue?

Bazooka- bubble gum

????

[69RavenConv 302]

Yes, if your guides are stripped to bare metal, use shims. In the WCCC video, he doesn't strip the brackets down to bare metal, and re-uses the existing material to hold the glass in proper position. The glass needs to be parallel to the brackets and you'll never get that without some type of support. I used neoprene rubber strips.

[RPM 1,242]

When you reference on hand or local, what would you be referring to;

Rubber- bicycle intertube strips?

Shims- to keep glass centered in channel with just glue?

Bazooka- bubble gum

????

Yes, yes and yes. As long as the Bazooka bubble gum hadn't been chewed. Local would be a nearby hardware store.

[1969_Mach1 334]

I used a couple of neoprene strips in each channel to hold the glass in the proper position.  It's been a while, but they were probably only 1" to 1-1/2" wide.  I got it from a hardware store.  Although I don't think a Home Depot or Lowes would have anything.

[Raven R code 281]

Good info! I'll be going down this path very soon. First question I have is what glue to use?

[rockhouse66 22]

I used this stuff;

 

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Automotive/Aftermarket/Products/~/3M-Channel-Bonding-and-Sidelite-Adhesive-08641-47-3-mL-6-per-case?N=3294532134&rt=d

[barnett468 418]

Shims- to keep glass centered in channel with just glue?

 

 

Yes, it's a very bad idea to use rubber.

 

I use lined notebook paper or plain white paper as shims . I fold it up so it is around 3" long and 3/8" wide and thick enough so the glass has to be forced into it slightly . I put one piece around 1" from one end and another the same distance from the other end . The inside corners of the paper sometimes need to have a couple layers removed with a razor blade to eliminate any "bunching up" of the paper which will adversely affect how it fits.

 

After everything is clean and sanded with 120 grit, I put a towel in a vice then put the window in it upside down and let one end of it rest on the work bench then gently tighten the vice.

 

Install the paper in the channel or tape it into position on the glass then use 50/50 channel bonding adhesive in the channel then put the channel on the glass and push it all the way down then let it sit for at least 30 minutes.

 

Only glue one channel at a time.

[RPM 1,242]

Good info! I'll be going down this path very soon. First question I have is what glue to use?

I wouldn't try it without first watching the WCCC video. In the vid he shows the 3M adhesive to use, which is similar to or the same as Rockhouse listed.

[barnett468 418]

I used a couple of neoprene strips in each channel to hold the glass in the proper position.  It's been a while, but they were probably only 1" to 1-1/2" wide.  I got it from a hardware store.  Although I don't think a Home Depot or Lowes would have anything.

 

too soft/compressible

[barnett468 418]

Here is the video . There are some good suggestions here, however, 99.999% of the time the rubber has come unglued from the metal and/or the bracket fits sloppily on the window and in these cases you should clean all the old glue out and use some type of non flexible shims on both sides of the glass too force the bracket to align with the glass at the correct angle . I also sight down the brackets after installing the second one to make certain they are aligned with each other . If they are misaligned with each other by more than around 2 degrees, your window will not fit properly.

 

[Caseyrhe 650]

what about this

 

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/mmm/08609/image/4/

[Raven R code 281]

what about thishttp://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/mmm/08609/image/4/

Just don't use epoxy! One hot day and BAM!!.....window will explode into a million pieces.

[barnett468 418]

what about this

 

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/mmm/08609/image/4/

 

No, you need catalyzed (2 part) glues or the results may greatly displease you.

[Caseyrhe 650]

Barnett, is the red in the picture a good representation of where the paper needs to go?

[barnett468 418]

Nope . Fold it over the glass an equal distance on both sides then push the bracket over it . Test it a few times until you get the hang of it . once the thickness of the paper is just right . It will take a moderate amount of force to push the bracket on and it will not be loose once it is on.

 

I really wouldn't recommend that anyone do this themselves if they have no experience doing it because it is far more likely to install the brackets incorrectly than it is to install them correctly and once they are glued in you are screwed if they are not perfect or extremely close to it.

[Machspeed 219]

Here is the video . There are some good suggestions here, however, 99.999% of the time the rubber has come unglued from the metal and/or the bracket fits sloppily on the window and in these cases you should clean all the old glue out and use some type of non flexible shims on both sides of the glass too force the bracket to align with the glass at the correct angle . I also sight down the brackets after installing the second one to make certain they are aligned with each other . If they are misaligned with each other by more than around 2 degrees, your window will not fit properly.

 

 

Those videos from West Coast Cougars are second to none! They are ethical people too! If I wear building a Cougar, he'd me my one stop spot for parts and such.

[barnett468 418]

Those videos from West Coast Cougars are second to none! They are ethical people too! If I wear building a Cougar, he'd me my one stop spot for parts and such.

 

well unfortunately the fact that it does not show how to install the brackets so they align with each other and are at the proper angle to the glass does little to help the people that have brackets that fit slopily on the glass.

[1969_Mach1 334]

too soft/compressible

Didn't seem too soft.  I will admit I don't know the Durometer rating of the material I used.  Folded it over the glass and it took a fair amount of effort to push the glass into the channel.  Maybe it was a rubber material and not Neoprene.  I had it for a long time left over from other projects.  I did that back in 1997.  So far, the windows are still in their tracks. 

[larryc94 38]

WCCC is a great source for parts, some are the same for our Mustangs. Great for used parts too, I needed the baffle for side of my radiator.

 

Also he's the only selling replacement mirror glass for drivers side Sport mirror.

 

and his videos are great!

 

Larry

[barnett468 418]

Didn't seem too soft.  I will admit I don't know the Durometer rating of the material I used.  Folded it over the glass and it took a fair amount of effort to push the glass into the channel.  Maybe it was a rubber material and not Neoprene.  I had it for a long time left over from other projects.  I did that back in 1997.  So far, the windows are still in their tracks. 

 

 

ah, ok, yes rubber would be much better , i have some of the soft foam door seal from them which is what i thought you might be referring to and you can easily compress that with your fingers.

[Caseyrhe 650]

Alrighty then, nothing like a good cup of napalm in the morning. I understand the location of

shim/paper placement now. Thank you

 

On to the angles as to not be screwed. I did not disassemble one of doors from the parts car I bought, just to use as a reference when reassembling mine.

Questions;

1) is angle of glass going to be the same for all glue in's, coupes and fastbacks, know the glass is

different

2) possible to make a jig with current glued in glass out of parts door, to use to get the

perfect/factory angle

3) one of my brackets (DS) still has the yellow adhesive in it, leave it in and glue glass in it

4) although it would be hard to seat the glass in the brackets, possible to install glass with brackets attached to regulator/rails so proper angle could be achieved, know WCCC mentioned that in video

5) if I clamped both brackets, properly spaced, aligned, and level, possible to get the right angle

using a plumb ball from top of glass/distance from brackets

 

Another thought would be to remove the one bracket needed to at least have one set of

brackets with glue still in tact with no slop and use them on DS door

[barnett468 418]

1. yes the angle is the same on all models

 

2. yes you could make a jig/guide if you had an orig window to make one off of.

 

3. they did not use yellow glue . that is weather stripping adhesive that someone used the last time it came off the brackets.

 

4. yes it is "possible" to glue the window to the brackets with the brackets in the car however, i wouldn't suggest it.

 

5. xnt question, unfortunately i don't remember

[rangerdoc 22]

I'm certainly no expert, but here is a thread where I helped someone just after doing my windows. Might be something useful in there for you. I consider this one of those projects to do once and only once...and correctly!

 

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/626914-1970-glue-glass-inside-shell-out.html