barnett468

its a complicated question but i was also considering mileage when i suggested a 331 instead of something bigger . in general  the bigger the engine the lower the mileage so the 331 will likely get worse mileage than a 302 but it will have more tire burning power.
unless you have fuel injection and/or an overdrive, you will likely get around 14 mpg with a mildly built 331 at 100 - 110 kph.
 

don't know about the drake shocks buy why dont you just buy the gas kyb's?

All I know and all that I can say is that two heads are better than one....

they either aligned it incorrectly or something loosened up which changed the alignment or something in the suspension was worn out before, or wore out after, the alignment . irregardless, you should NOT have to be asking what is wrong with it on an internet forum if you have it at a competent shop, so it sounds to me like you should take it someone that actually knows what the hell they are doing.

no, they don't . they ask $282.47 cents but never sell them . i know the owner.

no, they don't . they ask $282.47 cents but never sell them . i know the owner.

leprosy is rare too but not many people looking for that either.

leprosy is rare too but not many people looking for that either.

Depends on the condition of the steering box and how many miles it has on it . The entire assembly as is, is worth at least $75.00 to the right person or you can try to retail it for $150.00

they are NOT sought after an anyone that thinks they are is smokin crack . yes, there may be one or two people somewhere on the planet that might want it and whom might want to pay around $100.00 for it but finding them is like finding a needle in a haystack etc . if you want to sell it, put it on ebay in a fixed price ad for $100.00 ot offer . you can run it until it sells for FREE.
 

they either aligned it incorrectly or something loosened up which changed the alignment or something in the suspension was worn out before, or wore out after, the alignment . irregardless, you should NOT have to be asking what is wrong with it on an internet forum if you have it at a competent shop, so it sounds to me like you should take it someone that actually knows what the hell they are doing.

yeah, nos or used orig from ebay.

check your drive shaft angles, especially if you lowered the trans to get the t5 in.

It seems a bit odd to me that Chris Straub didn't suggest a specific carb he would prefer.
There is 23 vac secondary carbs in that cfm range in the link below.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/carburetors/universal/yes?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=carburetor&sw=Carburetors&N=4294921892%2B4294951518%2B4294512689%2B4294921888%2B4294881228
 
A vac secondary carb is not a "must" for an auto trans.
You will need to adjust/tune the secondaries for optimum perf on a vac secondary carb.
 
 

yes, nodular or war case with daytona pinion.
as i mentioned on your other thread, put a locker in it if you are going to drag race it much.
the tko 600 is a truck style trans and shifts like crap if you try to shift it quickly . you really better get the carbon lined blockers and have the shift detent mod done if you buy one . liberty trans and a couple others can do that for you.
us gear and italian made motive gears are the best . timken bearings are the only bearings to use.
there are some very intelligent people on the vintage mustang site and there are some very unintelligent ones . be careful who you listen to over there . supershifter is one of the smartest people there.
the more traction you have the better your gears and axles need to be.
you also stated on your other thread that your engine would have 600 hp and that you might also add nitrous to it . now you say it only has 550 hp . if you get the cam from chris straub and you do everything he tells you, it will likely have within 10 hp of what he says it will on the type of dyno he says it will make it on which is one of the reasons i suggested you call him and have him do your cam.
you can also call currie enterprises
 
 
 

Barnett468....... You can say it....Its just a miracle  in a can that pep boy and the rest  have a complete shelf of.
I have a pint of motor rebuild if anybody is interested? 

It will cost more to build an engine but you have no idea if the 306 was properly balanced or the machine work was good or if it has arp rod bolts or good rods etc  . i never buy used engines unless i can test drive them first.
 
 

this is similar to the griffen but not identical but it is a very good rad and "should" work...unless it is bore .040 over and/or you use a power adder or you have ac etc. it does not have a trans cooler.
you can also call ron davis and matsons and spikes radiators to see what they have
 http://classicfordradiator.com/68-70FordMustangCougarAluminuBigBlockradiator24wideCopperRadiator-3-1-2.aspx
http://www.spikeradiators.com/
http://www.mattsonscustomradiator.com/
http://www.rondavisradiators.com/custom.htm
 
 

that won't cool 70 hp . the tubes need to be 1/2" ones and 3/8" on center . i think think those tubes are only 3/8" ones and farther apart than 3/8" but you would need to call . you also need a cross flow.
 
it seems like you bought a bunch of high end parts to build your engine with little regard to cost and now you want to get away with the cheapest radiator you can which is illogical if you care about protecting your engine.
 
 
 

better get a 4 row if you get a champion unless they have 2 rows of 1" to 1 1/8" tubes.
 

nope, that pile only has 1 row of tubes.

i would 2618 material pistons if you plan to use nitrous.
 
 

Yes Chris straub. 
I dropped of the engine friday and haven't spoken to the shop (Jim grubbs motorsports)  about that. I would guess 30 over
Chris recommend 10-1 since I only have 91 octane available. 
Both Chris and Jim grubbs motorsports said 600 shouldn't be a problem with everything that I have ( I'm buying the custom cam, afr 205 heads, 408w kit, 850 carb or efi) i told them carb
I live in a desert almost. The coldest it gets here is low 30's to high 20's and i wont be driving this then
I was talking to a guy on another forum and he recommended a Holley self learning sniper efi .....
I've been looking into it and it can control timing, trigger fans, and control the ignition coil like a msd box IIRC
It needs specific distributors to control the timing but if it can do these things up just return my digital 6al and buu the Holley sniper kit.
I have a custom 300a alternator for one of my cars (car audio) that I was thinking of just having re-cased for my mustang. Just a idea but if I don't do that I'll just get a decent output alt for sure. Custom or something else
Thanks for the advice on the radiator and pump :)

They are all crap to use imo and should only be in a car that is frequently raced, otherwise there is no benefit other than that they look "sporty", so basically you are really asking which ratchet shifter is the least crappy, and i try not to use parts that are crappy at all if i can avoid it . In fact, I just took a nearly new pos quick silver out of a car a month ago because it was a piece of crap, crap, crap and will probably just throw it in the trash so I don't get bad feedback from someone that might buy it from me on Ebay after they install it and find out what a big pile of crap it is.
It will also never feel as solid as a stock shifter because the piece of crap uses a cable instead of arms which makes it feel spongy to some degree because that is what ALL cables do and the difference can also be felt when shifting an old Mustang and an old Camaro because the old Camaros use a cable.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Almost sounds like your bartender could add that to your JB...