RogerC

Recommended Required reading,
351C Performance Tuning and Re-Building.pdf

ok great.
the piston "volume" is the size of the dish or dome including the valve reliefs.
if the fans came from champion they are the lower end of air flow per size/diameter and i for one wouldn't use them even if they gave them to me. spal is one of the best fan mfgs and they have many to choose from. stock USED original ford fans from a v6 contour, or taurus, or lincoln are also some of the best.
based on your reply, it doesn't sound like your compression is excessively high. if it was, it would ping most of the time when accelerating even with octane booster, unless you happen to also be using 95 or higher octane gas.
 
if you have .041" thick gaskets, you could go to .060" thick ones but i would use thick intake gaskets. you may also have to slot the holes on the intake slightly. increasing the gasket thickness by .020" will lower your compression by around .5 but this should not be done on heads that have a quench pad.
 
did they zero deck the block?
do your pistons have a raised dome?
how did you set the timing curve and the vacuum advance if you use one?
when it gets hot does it get hot in traffic or on the highway or both?
if you have a numerical temp gauge, how hot does it get?
champion makes a few different rads, so how many rows deep and how wide is it and is it a cross flow?
your bore is .040 over?
what cam do you have?
do you have headers?
where is your float level set at?  if the float level is high, it will cause stalling at idle when hot and sometimes erratic idle or stalling after stopping moderately quickly.
 

The modeling wouldn’t  be so easy but the FEA wouldn’t be that difficult either and the results would easily show the differences. Was meaning to post later but my oldest daughter went into labor with our 2nd grandchild. Bored and posting from the waiting room. 

The modeling wouldn’t  be so easy but the FEA wouldn’t be that difficult either and the results would easily show the differences. Was meaning to post later but my oldest daughter went into labor with our 2nd grandchild. Bored and posting from the waiting room. 

You've got that reversed.
1st pic - My rebuilt oem manual brake pedal, clutch pedal and bracket. Hole to right of red clip in pic is where power brake pedals mount.
2nd pic - A 70 setup on right with power brake pedal.

Welcome to mustangs. It looks like you're coming along pretty good. The paint looks great!

Wow, the idiocy with that guy. I used to work on garbage trucks (Waste Management). Learned mig & stick welding ojt. Currently design 15,000 lb jet engine and gas turbine engine shipping stands and containers with loaded weight at 30,000 lbs +. These are 99% mig welded and tested to 6g of total weight downforce. These carry engines from GE, P&W, RR and other engines & transmissions from Oshkosh. Dude has his head up his arse.
Adding the armoring company I used to work for designing armored truck configurations and discreet armor packages for luxury cars. These consisted of mig welded 304SS, Domex and Armox armor plating.

I wonder what this guy thinks about the various "glues" that manufacturers are now using to join sheet metal together.  Fusor comes to mind as one of these "glues" that is quite popular these days.

X2
I've also found the forums and people you've referenced very helpful in the past and also recommend them.

Two thumbs down on FB, not on it and never will be. I'm on pro-touring as much as I'm on here and they started self hosting pics when the photobucket fiasco went down. Don't know the specifics but might be something to look into.

There's something you don't see often, a US flag displayed other than at an embassy in another country. And correctly at that. Looks like you have the same mustang clock as I have over my desk in my man-corner (house too small for a man cave). Nice place.

There's something you don't see often, a US flag displayed other than at an embassy in another country. And correctly at that. Looks like you have the same mustang clock as I have over my desk in my man-corner (house too small for a man cave). Nice place.

Cool, congrats. Welcome to the forum. My daughter & SIL live in Mason couple of minutes from King's Island.

The oem 2 barrel carb is going to limit how much improvement you'll actually see, not enough to justify the cost of your proposed mods IMO. A few others on here with more knowledge will chime in with some good advice.

https://fuelsafe.com/motorsports/model-specific-fuel-cells/mustang-fuel-cells/
 

There are several on here that beg to differ including me. Every one that I've seen folds around the upper front glass flange.

Curious about this. Is there a specific reason for not welding the body onto the frame? I guess I didn't expect you to bolt it together.

I had the same dilemma but ended up cleaning them real good, fixing the blemishes, primering with aluminum compatible primer then painting with VHT wrinkle paint.

I have been searching for a replacement for my 06 for a couple of months now. The 06 runs fine but its getting a lot of miles on it, recently turned 180K, so I wanted to replace it before it dies and I have to. Been looking for a 2010-2014 in dark red. Saw a 2011 at Lebanon Ford a couple weeks ago online, wanted to go look at it then but didn't have the time. Was checking autotrader online weekly. Last weekend it was no longer listed. Figured it was gone. It showed up back on autotrader when I looked Friday so decided to go check it out Saturday. So I ended up buying the 2011, has 11K miles on it. All in all out the door with taxes, fees and 6 year/100K mile warranty for 15K. The car is brand new inside and out. Found out this morning after a little research, cause I was curious about the side stripe, that it is a Mustang Club of America Edition. 1of 187 coupes made with candy red paint.

Take off the radio/HVAC faceplate then slide the side trim pieces down. The side trim pieces are held in place at the top by pins from the faceplate that poke through the holes near the top of the side trim pieces and a tab on each side hanging down from the upper dash pad.

There are 4 brake pedals; manual trans manual brakes (my first pic), manual trans power brakes (second pic), auto trans manual brakes, and auto trans power brakes. The manual brake pedals mount on the clutch pedal shaft. The power brake pedals mount with a bolt thru the pivot end of the pedal and high up on the bracket, they're longer. Sounds like you need the same one I have (top pic).

Saw my first 2015 mustang saturday on the way to the UD football game. Was passing by some university housing and sitting in front of one was a brand new, with temporary tags, yellow V6 model. I gotta say it looked pretty good. I need to get a closer look at one though.

Someone has on overly inflated opinion of the value of their 6 cylinder 69 coupe.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-2-door-coupe-1969-2-door-mustang-coupe-/171561007012?forcerrptr=true&hash=item27f1d537a4&item=171561007012&pt=US_Cars_Trucks
I especially like this last comment "The sale price is negotiable but will only increase as I continue to make improvements"

Someone has on overly inflated opinion of the value of their 6 cylinder 69 coupe.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-2-door-coupe-1969-2-door-mustang-coupe-/171561007012?forcerrptr=true&hash=item27f1d537a4&item=171561007012&pt=US_Cars_Trucks
I especially like this last comment "The sale price is negotiable but will only increase as I continue to make improvements"

My desire is to have something that has the look of 60s sports racer wheels. This is the closest I've found so far. They are 17x8 & 17x9 and would require about a .5 inch spacer to be close to 4.5" backspace up front. Rear can handle 6" BS tops. Center bore is smaller than ford but may not be an issue with a spacer. Black center on bronze, opinions on a dark red car?