RogerC

Update: In early February I took my spindles to a friend's who has a bridgeport. We had to drill & tap the 3 holes bigger on the spindle face for the Wilwood caliper brackets. Mission accomplished. I've been waiting for the weather to get better to clean and paint them. Today after work I was able to clean, strip, prime & paint. They're sitting in the garage curing. I may get some pics this weekend. 2 Saturdays ago I stopped by the machine shop and checked on my block. It got a .030 overbore which I expected. He's still working on it and the crank. I'll probably check in on it by the end of the week. Have been buying other needed parts so that's all the progress lately.

I recently bought the 16:1 ratio manual box, got it from Summit. Also bought the rest of my steering linkages from Open Tracker including the Trans Am roller idler arm. My original box has been worn out forever, last drove in the 80s. The car should drive pretty well. If it turns out to be heavy, I'll add electric assist, considering this, https://americanpowertrain.com/shop/electric-power-steering/ez-electric-power-steering-for-1965-70-mustang-cougar/

My boy was in town so he helped me load my block and dropped off at the machine shop. Finally getting the block done. I'm going to have them do the whole short block.

Engine bay work Oil pan mod, fabbed new sump. Pan isn't done yet. I coated the interior sump area and the entire exterior with KBS Rust Seal. I need to sand, prime & paint the exterior yet.

Heavy leather from local welding supply store on my left hand and a thinner TIG glove from HF on my right. Gives me better control.

pics, yes

Yup, 69. Not much left of it.

Anyone with a 69 or 70 with a 351C. I'm looking for a longitudinal distance from the front face of the engine mount legs on the shock towers to the front face of the oil pan. Thanks in advance.

Been thinking about my engine compartment overall configuration. I initially wanted to go with the Martz front suspension and R&P set up. I really like that set up best of all the options with R&P. I was thinking of going dry sump on my 351C. I backed off that but never felt good about the engine position height-wise with a rear sump conversion. I decided to retain the front sump and do several things to ensure good oil supply in the 351C. I'll document those later. Keeping the front sump meant re-thinking my suspension. Back in the mid 80s I installed the Global West Negative Roll set up. It seemed obvious to move to their coil-over negative roll set up as I already have the A arms relocated (slightly different than the Arning/Shelby mod) and I wasn't really feeling the work necessary to do the Martz set up. So I pulled the trigger on the GW kit adding Willwood 12 inch disc kit. I'll get a quick ratio manual steering box and roller idler arm. I bought the shock tower plates from opentracker and started welding those in also. More to come. BTW, My company was bought, an agreement was signed last month, waiting on .gov official approval due to DoD contracts. New company is intending on expansion. Its a french company with facilities in Miami (north american HQ) and Mexico along with other facilities around the world. We've been told they want our company as the main engineering and manufacturing facility in the U.S. Our biggest customer outside of DoD is GE Aerospace & GE Power (whatever they're called now) and the Cincinnati & Peebles facilities are fairly close (day trip). Also, Rolls Royce is over in Indy.

Not installed yet but using NuRelics. http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/70369-69-supercoupe/&do=findComment&comment=489061

I have this information. For some reason, the 1st page only posted as a link. https://i.postimg.cc/8596fRZX/Pictures-20240728-0001.jpg

Opened my oil pump up. Wanted to see if it was still good. Looks like something got between the housing and the gears gouging them. You can barely feel it but I'll replace the pump while I have the engine apart.

I bought a Scott Drake switch (C9ZZ-17A553-V2) off ebay from Ohio Mustang Supply back in April. Other listings. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_id=276413494430&_nkw=Scott Drake C9ZZ-17A553-V2 Variable Wiper Switch&_sis=1

Slight diversion from the 69, Added front spoiler and rear spoiler wicker bill to DD.

I talked to the machinist a few days back. I'm going to try and drop off my block next Friday. He's going to sonic check it, clean it, do a complete eval and determine what all needs done.

Your 5K limit is sensible. If you were to rebuild and take care of the vulnerabilities it would probably be good to around 5.5K - 6K. Though the engine was designed to run at 7K in 4V form, the vulnerabilities make that risky. Rod bolts are good but the nuts are the failure point. If you're running stock valves, those are ticking time bombs. The oil system has some issues also. As D0ZX said the cam and heads are going to limit any useable power up high anyhow.

In the process of making my own copies of the RM style. Had the pieces laser cut at work. I can't recall where I got the cad files from. I overlooked that the bolt holes were line on line and had to open them slightly with the drill press.

Been checking in every day. I want to post a couple of pics once I'm able to again.

See ben's post (bswor) between my posts. He's working on it. http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/220009-bandwidth-issue/page/3/#comments

Got my polycarbonate quarter windows yesterday. They'll be fixed in place and not moveable. Made by Plastics 4 Performance in the UK. They were pretty pricey to ship to the states but I think they're worth it. I tried making my own with 1/4 inch plexiglass but it didn't turn out well. They look well made and accurate. Direct link worked to load the pic.

Excellent, Thank you Ben. I don't think others have noticed yet.

What happened? Back up before the first of the month.

Can the forums, individually or enmasse, be locked, locking all threads and preventing creation of any new threads. I would be ok having everything locked till the issues can be addressed. It might also stop the russian bots completely. I would think the site wouldn't get shutdown but everything would still be viewable. Would that work?

I did some clean up work on my block. hit a couple of areas on the outside with a flap wheel to smooth off casting flash and a couple of sharp corners. Hit the lifter valley with the dremel, chamfered the oil drain holes and cleaned up the hole letting oil onto the distributor gear. I need to go talk to the machinist about prepping the block for the build next.

I'm seeing pics of 70 verts both smooth and with the line behind the wheel opening. The smooth version looks to have a shorter line from the B pillar aft.