RogerC

Is this engine setup carbed or FI? points or electronic distributor? Need more info. That app seems totally unnecessary to set timing, idle speed & carb mixture unless you're dealing with an electronic system.

I've had stuff from amazon come to Cincinnati to Dayton to Columbus and back to Dayton. I live less than a mile as the crow flies from the amazon distribution center in Dayton. I've even had stuff out for delivery then bumped to the next day cause they didn't get to it. I even yelled at them about not making a delivery. I have to say I haven't had an issue since and that's been over a year ago. They probably have notes on me. USPS is probably the worst. I think they send stuff across the country just to piss you off. On more than one occasion a package has made it here via Cincinnati to Dayton to Indy to Columbus and back to Dayton.

What is the measurement at the bottom pinch weld? The inside face of the rockers are not dead vertical, they angle slightly outboard at the top edge. The dimensions shown on the diagram are on the bottom.

I could see them a little better on my home pc. Looks like maybe D0A_ but not sure. 70 spindles are slightly bigger in diameter and use larger bearings. I have 70 spindles on mine from a 70 cougar.

Sweet car!

I think that's the spring anchor point for the top arm of the clutch bellcrank.

Thanks Randy!

Get mustangsteve's rebuild kit. I've done mine but they're not on the car yet. https://mustangsteve.com/product/do-it-yourself-rebuild-kit-69-70/

Update Just noticed it's still listed on Ebay but price is now 90K. This paragraph from the "dealer" just kills me Condition: Used Seller Notes: “We represent this vehicle to the best of our ability; however, we strongly encourage all interested parties to come and see the vehicle in person or have a third party inspection. All purchases will be charged a $250 PRE-DELIVERY SERVICE CHARGE*. Additional charges such as sales tax, tag fees, registration fees, government fees, shipping charges, or finance charges may be charged depending on the state you are registering the vehicle and/or having it transported. (*This charge represents costs and profit to the dealer for items such as inspecting, cleaning, and adjusting vehicles, and preparing documents related to the sale.)”

I don't have any pics to post but I had to create some spacing on the backside of the bulb housings to replace what I cut off and so the bulbs sit right. I made spacers from PVC pipe, attached them to the bulb housings with JB Weld, primed with SEP then sprayed the area with spray-on rubber. They're solidly attached and not going anywhere. The headlight bowls were primed with SEP after completely coated with POR15 then top coated with KBS satin chassis black and the rims were sprayed with the spray-on rubber.

He love you long time

Thanks Ben!

A friend at work bead blasted my headlight buckets for me, he's currently doing my headlight extensions. I found I needed to increase the hole on the backside by almost 3/8 inch to clear the back of the bulb housing. I also had to trim 3 tabs off the bulb housings, they were larger and didn't match the buckets. Touched up the backside of the bulb housings where I cut off the tabs with POR15 (the backside is metal). Coated the inside surface of the headlight buckets with POR15. Have to coat the backside then paint. Thinking of coating the rim of each bucket with a couple coats of spray rubber. I'm thinking it might prevent any rubbing of the headlight housing when mounted.

What got me curious is asking 115K for an R code mach 1 and the car is missing some things that might make it worth the price if the car was complete and original. As it is it's just a 69 with a 428 (maybe) and a hodge podge of parts. It might be a legit R code but I think someone threw it together to sell as a rare-ish 69. Hell, for the asking price they could have at least picked-up the right door panels, console top, instrument panel, brake pedal pad, replaced the left kick/vent panel and picked up a shaker assembly. I do have some doubt of it being a real R code, no pic of door plate & no Marti report. There's a distinct lack of supporting information. However, it could have been a basket case project missing a lot of parts and pieced together like I said before.

70 instrument panel & lower cover

Like what you did with the license light panel. Had an idea for something similar but haven't decided how I want to do it. I'm using this from American Shifter Co. I think I got it on ebay about 5 years ago. Don't recall the cost but think it was around $60. Also bought the accessories kit but don't recall the price.

There's a few things not right on this car, anyone notice? Check out the pics. https://www.ebay.com/itm/255746059238?hash=item3b8ba72be6:g:L7wAAOSwqLtjCFo3&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoGllSmI7riF4C4lkP9QGVpDP7npo25%2Fj2NaiR1e4BxLXxoCBBwsLXt79P7PsP0KAamRNwAQ08WWhJgqn5zDeyLV%2FAt1ABoOkeY3%2F6Kt%2FvHAIux7p8LzqSXqHmBXJFX0m3n%2B9X4S6PDmuoKZ3hEdvGWuHKtyG1mU635gwuv%2FTz89bvhQlZdBufTdcvFJFydN9AzmDqs35edoIDNXRbqExcMg%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7iH787wYA

Pod done & clock mounted. Finished panel

Interesting. Haven't been to their site but wondering if this would shorten the life of the LEDs by cycling the light constantly? I had in my head something like a rheostat that would reduce the voltage going to the light. I would assume each light has a threshold voltage (min) to illuminate, whatever that is.

So I had added some LED courtesy lighting on my custom instrument panel when I made it and the RH dash panel I'm currently working on. I was testing the lighting with a 9V battery this past weekend and was thinking it would be nice to be able to dim them to a comfortable level & eliminate them creating any glare. What would I need and how would I go about adding a dimmer feature for each circuit? I like the footwell lighting on my 11 mustang and want a combination of illumination of the lower dash & footwell area.

I don't have any pics from doing the left side but when I get around to doing the right side I'll take a few.

As RR said above plus; it requires cutting & welding a little at a time as you go along. I've done the left side on my car so far. Also requires cleaning out the lead at the factory seams between the roof & the A & C pillars so those areas can be welded shut. Takes a lot of patience.

What's your plans?

The granada setup has been a popular swap for many years and works great when set up correctly, it sounds like your's wasn't even close. As others have mentioned above there are several avenues to go, just make sure components match, correct brake pedal, master cylinder, etc.

Update: Working on the R quarter skin, attached with screws at the moment. Need to do some more trimming and fitting. No pics. Also working on the rh dash panel. Was trying to figure where I wanted to put my clock. I figured to add a small pod on the right side but it escalated to a symmetrical pod spanning the rh panel. Primered Clock to go on right side angled face, visible to driver. Might add a usb charge port on left angled face and a courtesy light on the bottom. Also adding 71 dash emblem on flat and offset to the right. Will probably rivet the pod to the panel when done. Cut the backside open. Wet sanded and primered again. Needs further sanding & primer.