Trinitys

It’s a stick on factory graphic. It’s reproduced now too which is cool. It wasn’t really an option, it was just part of the Grande package,

I figured I’d check in on the site and haven’t posted in awhile. I’ve been busy though. The mustang is still running good, replaced shocks and tires a few months ago. Still drive it regularly. I just finished my 68 f100 build. 351w, fitech, 4r70w crownvic front end, explorer 8.8 rear. It turned out better than I could have imagined. I post a lot on my Instagram @ericmreimer

I think any pump would work. Why not just replace your stock pump with another stock pump? you could go with a GM type 2 either with tank on the pump or one that’s remote mounted but then your messing with brackets, adapting hoses etc. here’s a picture of a remote mounted tank GM type 2 on my buddy f100

Randell used a GM type 2 or also known as a TC pump. Pretty common out there.

Ok I’m building a 69 351w and have an issue. The brackets and pulleys I’m wanting are March ultra knock offs from eBay. It requires a reverse rotation water pump which is fine. First question is about the timing pointer and damper/Hormuz balancer.since factory the pointer is on the drivers side, this will have to have the pointer on the passenger side. Worried it won’t have timing marks where I need. Second question is about the timing chain cover. I imagine I need the reserve rotation cover? Can you guys confirm that. Pic attaced Ed is one I found on line.

Thanks and I hear ya. This one was in a field for a bunch of years. Down here the gulf coast humidity kills everything. Luckily this one had minimal rust but mice did a job on it.

I run a mass air system on my mustang and I like it for the most part. Going fitech because 2 reasons. 1-I got it on craigslist for 500 and 2- because I like an easy, reliable start.

Just wanted to check in. I poke my head in on occasion but stay busy on the truck groups. Anyway I still have the 69 Grande. She lives in the garage. The current project is a 68 f100. Crown Vic front suspension, explorer rear, efi 351w, 4r70w. Building the motor right now. Anyway, here’s some pics. Check out my Instagram @ericmreimer

I wish I could help. All I've ever done is a bit of mig welding on floor pans and panels. The roller perches I made could have been better but with a wire feed, no gas, it was not too bad. What part of Houston area?

I think it attaches from the inside if i remember right.

Here's a bit more interesting information on comparing copper to aluminum and tube design.... the note below this picture read "Each 1/2" tube loses 20% of its contact area due to the end radius.The lost fin contact area on each 1" tube is only 8% of its area Plus the flow rate in Aluminum is much greater." Griffin has an extreme cool feature that takes the tube with (A) up to 1.25".but that will set you back up-ward on $800 and $1500 if you have electric fans added on with their exact fit series. http://www.griffinrad.com/exact_fit.php?tid=2 Most are 1 inch on aluminum....however the OP has a Chinese made radiator with 1 1/8" tubes. The OP got a damn good deal.....now the e-bay sell just needs to post a early small block version and i'm buying it on the spot. if they dont, i'm eventually going to get a US Radiator brand for around $450 or so.

http://www.coolcraft.com/radiator-core-styles Here is a great radiator article. I never had to really put much thought into cooling issues but now that I'm looking at AC(down the road) I'm wanting to make sure I'm ready. According to the site, and a few others I've read this morning, it seems copper is a much better conductor than aluminum but when you solder it all together, it looses its heat transfer abilities due to the lead. Copper has other cons such as weight and dis-similar metals and electrolysis. some advantages of copper over aluminum are that a copper radiator is rebuild-able where an aluminum is not. Given the benefits of a aluminum over copper, plus the fact that it can be had in OE tank design make it a winner for me over copper. Where I said the added capacity above, I was referring to a 24" aluminum as compared to my current 20" copper.

For the first time in 9 years of living in Texas....I've finally driven my car to work. It used to be my daily out in San Diego buy it was also only 4 miles to work. Here i drive 37 miles each direction in Texas traffic/heat to downtown Houston. So being a cooler day and lighter traffic (good Friday) I decided it was time. Drove great....a bit of lingering issues i need to address but nothing major. Its good to get it out and get miles on it for sure! The AOD sure is nice on the highway...one of the best mods yet!!

Older flowmaster 3 chambers. They also dump down before the rear end. Drone at cruising speed if hypnotic lol....good " muscle car sound". I should take a video some time.

Great Picture and thanks for the follow up! Stock appearance and function with added capacity....perfect!

I also want to address the original poster. Welcome to the forum. If you've never driven or owned an old car, it a romantic notion that you'll be able to get an old car almost 50...to drive (and feel)like a new car. I don't know if you ever done this or not but I find a lot of people who have never driven a classic on a regular basis think they can make it feel like a new car. It's just not going to happen. The whole feel of an old car I'd much different. Steering, feedback, sound....ergonomics of where everything is even contributes to the feel. Now you can build it to to handle really well but that won't make it feel like driving a new car. Driving "feel" and handling should be considered different things. You can make it handle extremely well but the driving experience might suck. Or you can make it drive well but the handling sucks. If it's a track car...handling is what you may want and in this case it'll drive well for you on the track. Hand that same car to someone who wants a car that drives well on the street and I think they'll be disappointed. Drag cars are different, street cars are different, restomod/protour...different, and a track car are different all with different proposes and different "feel" built to meet a specific or or mix of certain functions. This is my goal.....What I want is a car that I can drive around town, handles well compared to street cars, has good drive-ability and if fun to drive...on the street. So my car would not drive real well on the track or at the drag strip compared to cars built for those specific duties. Those cars would not meet my needs either though...I don't want a rail suspension on a car I drive over train tracks or down the highway in traffic. I also don't need a 10 second car or the street-ability issues that accompany it. Long story short....read and research. Figure out your goals and you'll need to build to that goal. We'll help you reach that specific goal with experience and advice. You'll sacrifice some things to accomplish others and have to do what you can with your budget. And if not anything else, remember the "feel" or the "way it drives" does not equal how it handles....common misconception.

Vendors have always been a sore subject on where the the line gets crossed between being helpful and just selling stuff. So far TCP has contributed a great deal and provided knowledge that's sometimes much needed. Common sense tells you his post will be biased because this guys function is customer out reach. I personally don't see an issue with vendors participating, in the knowledge sharing aspect of these forums as long as they don't start threads to drum attention or spam with blatant sales posts. I haven't seen that yet. In respects, some forum members on this and other forums who have grown to building a business from our hobbies do the same thing. They get sales based on their interaction with forum members. Randall's Rack, DAZE's cars, open tracker are all examples of people who, at one point just were forum members trying to share knowledge...and still do but also have a financial investment along with it. The forums helped build their business. They do it for the love of the hobby but really it's the same thing with TCP, they're just a larger company. So do we cut all vendors out or do we do it selectively? I say, if the vendor loves the hobby and contributes to the forum, we let them be. When it evolves into spam, we give notice.

there definitely is a big market for a better fitting spoiler deck setup for coupes. Something that's not nearly as tall. Possibly something that resembles the sportsroof pieces but custom fit on coupe parts. People have been trying to get this to work for years. PAK was fitting a set years ago.

A motor with this age, if you can't get the lifter to play nice....id just replace the lifters. Leave the cam because the cam bearings are...trying to think of the right words....broken in with that cam..seated or worn. worst case but I wouldn't unless you just want a different cam. Just pull the intake, rocker arms and push rods (keep em in order) and replace the lifters if need be. Put it back together. Fire it up. Sounds easy lol

17's still shouldn't do this, there's something else going on here. Good thing the cover just pops off real quick on the 2100. I'd say change it just to be safe. Good luck!

It did run before it sat correct?? I dont agree that something is f'ed up. It's hard to tell from the video what type of studs are in it or what the length but i think they look more like 3/4 inch or a bit less from the nut. Studs could be longer..... I can't tell if those are press in or not but the stud length doesn't look abnormal to me. I would spin it with the starter for a bit and let it get a good oil pressure going...... I'd even try to start it. But that's me. Lifters are require hydraulic pressure to function and if this has been sitting for 30 years like this or how ever long, it may just need some good oil pressure.

First welcome to the forum!!! And please take this with a grain of salt...not trying to be offensive in any way. Lets be forward here. I think you already know the answer on how to treat the car, you may be conflicted on the logic of your thoughts but you have an idea. Its sounds to me like you want other people to tell you what you want to hear to support your thoughts. That's OK I guess but there is a problem with this way of thinking. Here's the deal.....you bought the car with the idea of ________________ already in your head. Asking us what to do with it isn't really going to change what you really want to do to it. I think you're just hoping one of us will support your idea. later when you're done of while you're on your way...people will not agree with your decision....but some will. Its life. Based on that, you should, IMHO, figure out what you want and roll with it. F$%* what we have to say on the direction you should take with your car because in the end, we're just like you. Each with their own motivations, internal and external influences and reasons. Some had a '69 in high school that never became what it could of and now later in life now have the means- so they are holding on to that original dream(that's my story). Others have other motivations....you need to figure out yours for yourself. We are here to help you build the car and give advise on how...."why" should be something you need to search yourself for....its what will keep you going in the project. building for others approvals may come with other problems i'm not sure we ....I am able to advise on. Other than that.....lol....good luck!

i just want to point out that this is most likely not a wheel diameter clearance issue but rather an alignment issue more than anything. Could be wrong though....

looking good! following along with anticipation! One thing I want to say is if the carb keeps overflowing....like 2100's like to with those black neoprene floats that end up in so many....go get a brass float! http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Motorcraft-2100-2150-Carburetor-Float_p_400.html Of and get pertronix ignition and ditch the points(if you haven't already) http://www.amazon.com/PerTronix-1281-Ignitor-Ford-Cylinder/dp/B000N2XOHQ Good luck and great story! keep it coming!

Mustangsteves kit has cables with it... And to answer your question on what I've used...I have an older Baer touring setup. Cables were included in the kit.