det0326

the fuse block and green piece on the drivers side firewall plugs together. If u remove the bolt in the center and release a couple of clips on the green piece it will unplug. The larger pin on mine was burned and had to replace with new pins. I have also found problems where the wires are riveted to the conductor bars on the fuse block.

doesn't the hole in 69 booster pushrod that attaches to the petal have a downward offset and the 70 is straight. That maybe a good way to tell which u have

Good information from Midlife. I did a rotisserie restoration on a 69 even did the painting and still had 30k in it. I only do it tho because I enjoy it.

Noticed too that u mentioned glue window in again. If u are having an issue with it breaking loose what some are doing is cutting a suitable length of rubber hose and using for a stop on the rails/guides to stop the down motion before it hits the center rubber stop. This keeps pressure off the window putting stress on the adhesive.

Not sure if this is correct or not. It doesn't list 69 mustang but it does list 69 cougar. It does give the dimensions tho so u could measure one of your good ones. https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/ford/mustang/parts/262A32A.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwur-SBhB6EiwA5sKtjv4tATI_JcTc8gryLcQCnsd77auu58Ab6g0cBlbktaL-VBLv369dERoCB3EQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

one solution may be to see if u can find some socket head flat head bolts and counter sink the holes so that the bolt heads will be flush with plenum. I also seem to remember that there is an after market plenum that might set a little lower.

Just be careful if u use lowering mounts. If your car is lowered any by changing spring rates or lowering spindles etc then u lower the engine also sometimes the pinion and driveshaft angle can get into a twilight zone. That is originally the transmission tail shaft is higher than the pinion shaft but in lowering this and that u can cause these to swap. Then if u have any driveline vibrations it is sometimes hard to correct.

I used the 3/8 round like the first one u posted from npd. I watched the one where Rich used the urethane on the 69 windshield that is interesting, if I were to ever replace another one I would give that a try. I like the way that is done with putting the trim on while the sealer is still soft so u can get the height right before it sets up. I did see something black around the edge, I assume that is what you're talking about. Not sure what that is, if it came on the glass or something he put on it.

You need the old solenoid for the 12v cranking voltage if you still have the OEM style ignition.

All the pulleys are just the water pump one. My water pump pulley was the one that was closer than the others but I used the dual fans and it so happened that the water pump pulley being in the middle hit right between the fans and cleared. I used late 80s early 90s f150 brackets tho.

I used the CPP power steering box which is about the same as the Borgeson. I really liked it.

Never been a fan of the Mary Kay look, that's just me tho. I will say I painted mine red and it was an original Wimbledon white I assure you it did not hurt the sale price one bit when I sold it.

I used the AOD that was heavily modified, which I would not do again, which made the 373 gear tolerable. If I was not going with overdrive transmission of some sort I believe I would stay around 320s or 330s lot of people use 350 on street without overdrive and it works but is a little much for interstate driving.

For the explorers, my concern was that once you center it, isn't it too narrow for a 67-70? If u cut the normal 3 inches off the long side and use a short side axle on the shortened side then yes it will be around 56 inches and pinion out of center 1 inch the other way. I did it a little different than most I cut 2 inches off long side and added the 2 inch piece to short side making the pinion in the center. Down side I had to get 2 custom made axles that cost me around $300 for the pair. Yes the 94 mustang rear end housing can be used. As I said u may have to use an offset wheel to prevent tire rub on the outside lip of the quarter/wheel house. Yes the truck rear end can be used too. It would have to be cut and new ends welded back on. Any rear end housing can be cut and welded back but it is not an easy task. The reason some axles can't be cut is the spline dia. tapers off smaller and it is not large enough to cut new splines. Keep in mind too that u may have to cut drive shaft or possibly have a new one made depending on which rear end u use or the length of the yoke.

Any rear end that's not out of the early Mustangs, Cougars and so on, will need modifying in some form or another. An example would be the later mustang 8.8 you speak of would need possible brackets cut off it and leaf spring perches added. The difference in width could be corrected with the proper offset wheel but if you want the depth of the fronts to match you may have to possibly add spacers. I used an 8.8 from an explorer which gave me a 373 gear limited slip and disc brakes. I centered the pinion and bought new custom length axles. If I was going to build another rear end to handle more horsepower I would just use the correct Mustang 9 inch with traction lock. It will cost more money but well worth it in my opinion.

So your kit has serpentine pulley and u want v groove pulley. If that is right can u simply change the pulley to v groove. I know sometimes in the aftermarket world u can find v groove pulleys with the correct dia. and hub to change them out.

First I would not do it, but if u go that route u need to look at the casting number. If it is not an E9 casting I would not waste my money.

Yes u are correct. I got a 4R from a thunderbird and used for internals and Dan (Silverfox) helped me out with the valve body. He told me the tricks to do to it to make it shift properly. Then sold me the springs and governor parts for hardly nothing. It worked good I just never liked the nature of the AOD.

I used the AOD. If I was to go with an overdrive again I would go with the 4R70W cost more for the electronic shifter but a much better transmission.

Good that it has been replaced. If you were getting an inconsistent signal to your meter match it probably wouldn't be accurate all the time either.

Just wondering, have u replaced the sender in the tank?

With todays radial tires u want all the caster u can get without putting the lower control arm in a bind or a tire scrub. The way these cars are designed u can't get to much positive caster.

i think DMV has become a lot like everything else in our pollical world today. There's a local guy here in my area that obviously has pull with the local DMV, if u give him 350.00 dollars and a few days he will get title registration and plates for Henry Fords first tin Lizzy.

How is the drain nipple on the heater/ac box? Had to repair/make one for mine. Most are cracked if not broke off.

There are a couple of things here that aren't obvious to me- what makes the compressor clutch open and close with temperature? Terry there is a thermocouple tube that goes into the evaporator and it has a switch that is in series with the heater/ac control lever switch. This is what cycles the compressor on and off with temperature change in the evaporator to keep it from freezing. I think your drawing is correct. The de-icing switch is the thermocouple switch.