Unkleen

Dead Nuts On carries this bracket. I think it is the one you are looking for.

AMK F-2156 Put that in google, you will find a couple vendors with them. CJPony for example.

Lookin' good!

The hangers were installed using bolts - no studs. The bolts fit into threaded holes just forward of where the shock upper mount is. There is two pieces of metal in that area, with an airspace between. I do not have a clear pic of the mounting, but this pic should give an idea where they go:

My 70 B302 has no plates either. Probably another one of the long list of minor differences between 69 and 70 cars. Could it be related to the transverse muffler used in 69, but not 70? Below is a pic during surgery:

There is a decent diagram at the grabber registry website: http://1970mgr.org/_TrunkLetters.htm

If a new engine rebuild, have you confirmed the head gaskets are not backwards on 1 or both heads? That will cut off cooling flow through the heads.

Try rotating them back before changing them out. Open hood, loosen hinge bolts a bit, them push up a little harder on the open hood. Have a helper tighten the hinge bolts while you hold it in position. This will rotate the hinges towards the rear of the car so the back of the hood lays lower when closed. Worth a shot anyways....

TexasEd, I just went through the same thing like 2 hours ago. What worked for me was the second tool you linked from Harbor freight (the all black one). I wrenched on it really really hard, and just when I thought it would either break or strip the threads - BAM - joint popped loose. Scared the crap out of me, but it worked fine. Leave the nut on, but loose (unthread the nut so it is even with the top threads). I had spent the better part of last weekend trying to get that off, a friend at work told me about the tool and how easy it was to use. In order to get it onto the lower joint, I had to destroy the grease seal on LCA, but that is not an issue if you are changing them anyways. Good luck!

Mine came with a black trap door, and the panel above it was also black. The side panels, corner panels, hockey sticks and sail panels were all white. Please take this with a grain of salt - mine was a basket case and these parts were in a pile when I bought it.

It is common for the hole in the clutch pedal to become elongated, especially when used without the little bushing that snaps in there. If that hole is elongated, and/or the upper pivot bushings are shot, the extra slop will cause forces to be placed on the linkage in angles it was not designed for - breaking the pin, and further wearing the hole. I would remove the pedal, check the upper bushings as mentioned above, and check this hole to see if it is out of round. If upper bushings are shot, go with a roller bearing upgrade. If clutch pedal hole is elongated, weld it up and re-drill. Be sure and use the little bushing in the linkage rod hole when re-installing. The Muscle Z-Bar setup has a heim joint and bolt at the pedal if your upper bushings are fine. This might work for you: http://www.barillarospeed.net/muscle-z-bar-kits.html

Tin Mans here. Happy with the fit and quality of them.

This link might be helpful, has a template. http://1970mgr.org/_TrunkLetters.htm

This guy has been recommended to me in the past, and I used one of his 67 mini tach's to replace the fake clock before. Was all good. He does conversions for 69-70 mustang tach's - don't let the Cougar stuff scare you off. Probably best to give him a call and let him know how you plan on wiring into the AAW harness. Scroll down the page for mustang tach's. http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-tach-all

RUG-AV is a wide ratio, and RUG-AW is close ratio. Which one you choose depends upon what you want to do. For example: 1. Wide ratio has better "Hole Shot", but larger RPM drop between gears. 2. Close ratio has smaller RPM drop between gears, but first gear does not have as much grunt - works best with numerically higher rear end gears (3.91 and 4.30). Close 1st 2nd 3rd 4th Ratio 2.32 1.69 1.29 1.0 Wide 1st 2nd 3rd 4th Ratio 2.78 1.93 1.36 1.0

This website has great info on that conversion: http://www.folddownseat.com/65Mods.htm

1970 boss 302 has a factory carb spacer, with PCV hose connected to it. Just sayin... It sounds to me like the OP's PCV valve is stuck wide open, sucking just enough air from crankcase during start instead of drawing the fuel through carb. Remember - it is supposed to be closed during high vacuum (like starting/idling), and open during low vacuum. Change or clean the PCV valve and do a test from there.

OMG, it's about freakin' time! Dynacorn is showing replacement inner vent panels and door hinge panels for our cars now. Too late for me, I had to cut up a cougar for these already. Someone else may be interested though... http://www.dynacorn.com/ListItems.aspx

There is a better way - much better. I just did mine with one of these, and used the extra thrust bearing mentioned in the description. It basically bolts in place of the shock and pulls the spring up into the shock tower. Was really easy compared to the hook style compressors - took about 10 minutes per side with no trouble at all. The body shop guy (who was afraid to do it because all he had ever used was the hooks) was amazed at how fast and easy it went. http://www.ebay.com/itm/65-73-Mustang-Shelby-Maverick-Coil-Spring-Compressor-/261195370724?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AMustang&hash=item3cd07510e4&vxp=mtr

I have wondered if the late model Hurst shifter boot adapters could be used for this. Possibly put it in and glue to the backside or something. Worried it would be too large or heavy and look strange though... http://www.cjponyparts.com/hurst-shift-boot-retainer-2005-2013/p/HW2810/

You already have it this far apart, seems it would be a shame to put it back together and risk having to pull everything again. If you wiped a cam lobe, there will be particles all over the place just waiting to ruin your day. That metal had to go somewhere. You can cut your oil filter open and see some of the particles usually. Take the whole motor apart and do it right. That will save much time and hassle later IMO. You can spend all day trying to get shortcuts working, but doing it the right way first saves time in the long run. (LOL, I sound like my dad!) Best Regards, Jeff

This webpage has before/after pics, even has arrows showing where the screws go. Need to click the photo in the link, then scroll between the three pics... http://www.deadnutson.com/catalog/item/4943784/6095372.htm Best Regards, Jeff

Stock on original 428 and Boss 302 cars. Those cars had reinforced shock towers from the factory.

I think this is the foamy stuff that goes between that trim piece and the roof: http://www.cjponyparts.com/roofrail-foam-adhesive-backed-10-feet-1965-1973/p/RF/ Best Regards

There is nothing wrong with the Astro T5 eluded to in the first post, as long as it has the upgrades. Plenty of capacity for just about anything you can build, plus it fits better: http://www.astroperformance.com/advanced_search_result.php?manufacturers_id=29&categories_id=100&subcategories_id=303&inc_subcat=1&osCsid=eff87546a110b9a0697f908e5818d839&x=20&y=23 Seems like a better way to me. Is there some advantage to the TKO that justifies the fitment issues?