redmach69

Well I'll be the odd guy out, my car is manual steering and I hate it. If I was you I would keep the power steering even if you have to buy new stuff from chockostang or elsewhere. It is hard to steer, and with the rimblow wheel, slow speed turns are nearly impossible without inadvertently blowing the horn. If you ditch it, I would be interested in your complete PS setup.

Still have it if so some pics, what does the system need? etc.?

I thought your car came with power ventilation, if so it would use the AC dash.

Thanks to those of you with constructive comments, I think as you indicate it is the nature of the port size and the cam that I need a larger carb. I am leaning toward the Holley 770 single inlet that would externally be the same as the 600. I have a 1/4 inch phenolic spacer on it now, the only reason I didn't use a thicker one was I am using a stock air cleaner, and was concerned about hood clearance. Thanks Again!

Hey guys, I have been taking the hot rod stuff ( msd, headers etc.) off my Mach 1, it has a 70 model 4v Cleveland with a slightly bigger than stock cam in it with an Edelbrock intake and a 4 speed. It hade a 780 no choke double pumper Holley on it, I kept the intake but put a new 600 electric choke Holley on it. It runs beautifully at idle or reving up with no load on it, however when I drive it when you let the clutch out, or you come to a rolling stop or some thing like that, it feels like the engine is lugging. You know, like you leave it in too high a gear and give it more gas, sort of bogs around until the revs come up. My question is do you think it could be the carb is too small because of the cam? It is timed and tuned correctly, as I said it runs beautifully sitting still, the choke performs great. It idles around 900 with the cam and if you downshift and keep the revs up, it doesn't have a problem except in 1st when you let the clutch out. The non stock cam is all I can think of, opinions?

Hey guys, I have been detailing under the hood of my Mach 1, took the car for a test drive the turn signals were fine (car ran good too.) I put the hood back on, put on my new scoop wiring harness hooked everything up and now no turn signals or flashers. I thought maybe overloaded the fuse so I changed it and no signals, then I just unplugged the hood scoop thinking that is the only thing that I changed yet still no signals. Any ideas would be helpful.

Does anyone know for sure or have some pics of the voltage regulator on a new jersey car? On mine the plug is facing the front but I suspect it has been turned around, a lot of the unrestored cars I see the plug faces the shock tower. Also same question for the windshield washer hose routing at the firewall. I thought it went through the plastic retainer above the master cylinder with the hood scoop wires, but in the kit I bought the hose is too short. I'm not making a concours car but I like things to be right as possible. Thanks for any info, or especially any photos.

I have found all this mustang reproduction stuff to be shockingly shabby. I have fixed up several GM cars using repop stuff and never encountered a real difference, I always told people buy repo don't waste money on NOS for drivers. But when I started buying for my mustang, now I know what guys have been on about. The reproduction part quality is sub-par, not everything of course but a lot. Just got a hood to cowl seal from NPD that is noticeably smaller and thinner than my original, hood moldings everyone knows about, on and on.

Hey guys, I'm sprucing up under the hood, painting the engine, the brackets etc. as well as the underhood area. My question is do most of the firewalls have what looks like undercoating on them especially around the heater motor? I'm just doing what people call a rattle can resto, so I'm not going to strip this stuff off. Has anyone dealt with this, do you just paint over it? I thought about painting over it then putting a very light coat of rubberized undercoating on to give it an appearance different from the paint. What do you think? Thanks

Anyone have a recommendation on the best hood pin lanyards and where to get them? I have the Ford motorsport set, and can live with the pins, plates and clips but the lanyards with the huge aluminum crimps on them just look awful. I know NOS is expensive what are guys using to get close? Thanks

You answered your own question, solve the problems first. Fix the overheating problem before doing any upgrades, so you can drive and have some fun. What good are new discs, or sub frame connectors on a car you don't drive because it overheats?

Unless it is just a hull already or stripped of everything, I would not cut up or part out a real Mach 1. Sell it complete if you can't keep it.

Unless it is just a hull already or stripped of everything, I would not cut up or part out a real Mach 1. Sell it complete if you can't keep it.

Max power, where exactly are you drawing the keyed 12v source from?

Thanks rockhouse, just exactly what I needed. Hey I'm in western NC as well!