cavboy78

Geez...I asked for advice on an exhaust system for a non-OEM setup, and I received options, isn't this what the forums are all about? Glad MTF took the time to respond, and for that, I thank them.

Let's be nice to one another.
After reading thru the thread again, MTF didn't initiate anything, but was merely replying to questions. It didn't sound to me like he was cold calling for sales here. He even shows the routing in pics which anyone could take to their local shop to duplicate. Heck, I once had a well liked Mustang shop who posts online, refuse to tell me what brand rod ends they use because it was "proprietary". I have no issues with MTF's postings. I've been wrong before :)

1969_Mach1:
I don't have a problem with MTF when they respond with something that they sell that they can help with the problem of the original poster.  I think most people here know that MTF is also a vendor and what they have to offer must be taken with the appropriate care one would take with any vendor.  If they offered items that were entirely inappropriate or irrelevant to the thread, then I would have a problem as well.  My casual interpretation/reading of their posts is that they are trying to offer help with the obvious bias of supporting things that they know work and provide in their high-end products.  I don't think that this is too awful to make a stink about.  The phrase is "caveat emptor". 
I hope that my advice that I present to this forum is not construed as well as hyping my products or services, although that is an ulterior motive for joining.  I try not to shill my services unnecessarily and only when it is appropriate.  I believe MTF is doing the same.
Just my humble opinion.
Written with respect and humbleness, Midlife.

Well, as luck would have it, my body man found remnants of the factory pin stripes when he re-skinned the passenger door. 

If I did not have all of these digital boxes, I would have done it differently, but if you don't have a good ground, you will find out the hard way.  
Let me know when you get started in earnest on the AAW harness.  I have lots of lessons learned.  If you know how to use Excel, I can send you my spreadsheet, and then wak you through my approach. But, I mapped every wire on the harness.
 
 

I had the exact same problem with my last date.

More pics, details on my build forum
 

So, after fussing with this for a day or so, my conclusion is that to start with, it is advantageous to have the lower dash out.   In my case, my car was stripped so it was a no brainer to start the wiring.   This allows easy access to the firewall holes that you need to route the wiring through.  
However, at some point you need to put the lower dash in, as that is where the wiring harness needs to go eventually.   
So, I put my pedal support bracket in, and laid the AAW harness on it, keeping all of the circuit branches up to, and including the headlight switch to the left of the pedal support bracket.    The rest of the harness is now laying to the right.   
What I will do next is to get my wiring organized so that I can route the forward wiring items (engine bay, horns, headlights, etc) through the firewall and in my case, the fenderwell.  Then, install my Vintage Air vent ducts, my VHX interface box & wiring, seal the remaining firewall holes and install my lower dash. Then hook up what I can and secure the wiring to the dash.   
The "Osborne" orange book has several really good drawings of what the factory wiring looks like. I chatted with AAW about this, and they tell me that for the 1969/1970s, they have tried to follow the original factory wiring layout as best they can.  
First pic is the orange book drawing, second pic is the harness laying on the pedal support bracket.  Last pic is a reminder that the 1969 and 1970 lower dash/steering column brackets are not the same, although at first glance they appear the same.   I had both in my parts stash, and quickly found out that I had grabbed the wrong one.   The one on the right is the 1970 bracket.
 

Cheater!   :-p

Cav....If you send me a PM, I will send you my phone number. You can give me a call, I’ve been over every inch of the harness and know where every single wire goes, I will send you my spreadsheet print out if you want and that will help you track the to and from maybe for your car

Hey cavboy.  Thank you for your service, you have no idea how much I appreciate it.   I owe you for that brother.  If you need parts, want to see some racing, or need a cold beer, always welcome down here in Charlotte.
My cousin still has his '56 T Bird.  Met him in Carlisle, Pa for the Ford show last summer, brought my '68, had a blast.
Regards, Vic
 
 
 
 
 
 

40? You ARE young. Hell, I've got shoes older than you. 

Ha Ha 40, I can't even remember being 40. Next month I will be 60.

I have done this.  It worked well.

The preload I was referring to was your front coilover springs. As you adjust the nut (around the shock) that the bottom of the spring rides on with your spanner wrench, it should move up or down depending on the direction you are turning. Preload is the amount of compression the spring is under while at normal ride height. At least that's what i'm referring too... My initial thought is that there is not enough preload on your spring.

Max,
All valid points and everyone's build and intended use is different. I have coilovers, upgraded disc brakes, and 17s on mine so the PSSs work great for me. The one thing we all do have in common though, is generally romping on the gas and the potential for panic stops without abs. I would still want all the grip available, even if only for those two scenarios. I would not want to leave anything on the table to save a few bucks and potentially rear end someone or skid if/when I would need to.  That is just me though...to each their own.
FWIW, there are ways to make a non-white letter tire into one. Google search will provide method/means, like tredwear. I would rather do this on a performance oriented tire than to accept reduced performance in order to have the white letters.

Thanks for the info Mike. I'll sock that away for when I'm ready to do my trunk.

The OP never stated if he had a stock build or not, which is why I referenced the multitude of different types of builds and factors. My stang is/was a base model sportsroof with a 302 and C4. I guarantee you mine is more desirable and would sell for more now with my mods then if it was kept original. If I had a Mach 1 428 Cobra Jet, then that changes the equation. I am not going to get in a pissing match over who has bought and sold more mustangs, I just don't agree with blanket statements regarding desirability and value of these cars.

ok, thanks!

I think wires got crossed here as RPM was asking for the link to the guy who sells just gears, not the built 3rd member. Either way, yes have been happy with mine. Shipped in a milk crate with the posi fluid and was returned with my old 3rd member for a core refund. Answered the phone when I called and spent the time with me to figure exactly what I needed.

If I had your car I would also do the mechanical work first, I'd continue driving it while doing the upgrades, as once a car is torn down it tends to stay down. While a fresh paint job brings a joy to our eyes, I'd wear that original worn paint as a badge of honor.  

it would be great if they came out with a column that works for a '70 and works with the burgeon box... I'd buy it in a second...rant off.

This weekend in Steamboat Springs. Anyone going? I will be there in my 2012 Yellow Blaze Boss 302.
 
 
http://www.rockymountainmustangroundup.org