stangs-R-me

Your custom clock pod turned out really nice !!
Doug

oof that sucks. i've been welding for years. i always wear a auto darkening hood, long sleeves, boots, jeans and gloves. Ive been burned plenty!

The bezel fits/holds fine even if both tabs are broken.

I found the perfect spoon dolly for getting into those curved panels and slipping behind braces ,who can guess what they actually are haha ? Thought they were cast iron but turns out they are forged steel .

There are two schools of thought on wiring
1) Use stock OEM type harnesses from a company like Alloy Metal Products that are available from a vendor like National Parts Depot. This will have a standard fuse panel and exactly match the Ford authorized wire diagrams. The advantage here is that anyone who has a standard wire diagram can help you, or fix the car.
2) Use an aftermarket harness like available from Painless, which will use the new style fuses and incorporate some relays (neither of which is available in option 1). The disadvantage is that you can only get help from that company or someone else that has their product and has their wire diagram.
Personally I will stick with the OEM harnesses and add to them as needed- but I will make a wire diagram showing the additions for the next guy that ends up with the car (and so I remember what I did).
You will never learn if you don't try. It isn't rocket science, but it isn't for everyone.
 

Thanks Casey and Doug, I do appreciate your time. 

Guessing you are probably right about the staples ... that would make sense.   I should have a spare set of ducts at home that I could check but I'm out of town at the moment.
Doug
 

Just looked through all my pics from when I had my dash apart in 2011 and did not find any with the ducts in place.   I don't remember any type of clamps holding the hoses to the plastic pipes though ... pretty sure they were just slip fit and stay in place because they are relatively short and captive between fixed points.
Doug    

I explained the problem of the PF4 not fitting under the hood a 69 with a 351w, and they responded to all my questions including my question about milling down the pad. They included the air horn height so they get an extra Brownie Point because I didn't have to look it up ;)

Back in the 1980's a buddy of mine dropped a stock 460 into a 1970 Mach 1 Q code 4 speed. His car was missing the 428CJ.  The car was not that fast.  Spark plug changes were not fun.  Even though it was already a big block car, he had to do a lot of changes to get the 385 series (429/460) engine to work in the car.  I almost dropped a stock 429 into a previous 70 Sportsroof I had back in the 1980's.  I ended up putting a mildly built 351C in my car instead.  I'm glad I didn't put the 429 in the car. 

Well i was in RPMs neck of the woods today in beautiful down town Bakersfield  ,had to buy a new toy !
Now i am in no way a Chrysler guy but what the hell !
2014 Challenger RT fully loaded ,remote start ,after market exhaust ,Stereo system,black leather with swade inset seats ,sport mode ,paddle shifter ,super track pack and runs like a scalded ape! Had to kick it on the way back just once ,stomped it to the floor as it hit third and roasted the tires.

I went on an expedition into the deepest darkest reaches of my shop ...people have been known to dissapear in there ,well not really ,but a lot of parts have mysteriously vanished there !
I found 3 1937 hoods ,2  36 hoods and a bunch of headlights ,some with the stainless trim rings .
I had forgotten i made rear fender molds ,and one side running board mold ,probably because right after i made the molds i found steele fenders ,and there is still more to dig out ,the green molds are for a model t go cart i used to build and may make again . I have to find a place to put it and keep it all together . 

The "CORRECT" 1969 351W 4V and 390 tips have a 1-3/4" I.D. inlet, so even the stock 2" tailpipes used on 351W & 390 reduce down at the ends to slip into these tips.   Front pipes & transverse muffler were all 2" as well ... the 351W H-Pipe on the other hand is 2-1/4".
1968-69 428 cars had full 2-1/4" exhaust from the H-Pipe to the tips.   Instead of using the same restrictive and separate tips the 351W & 390 cars used, the 428 cars came with special 2-1/4" tailpipes with the SS. Twin Tips welded right to the end of the tailpipes for much better flow, picture & details here:
https://www.scottfullerreproductions.com/catalog/item/4595229/4650641.htm
 
Back in the 80's, I put reproduction big block 2-1/4" exhaust on my 351W car because I was told by the seller it would bolt right up to a stock 351W H-Pipe ... YES IT DOES.
To be able to use the stock tips, I crimped the ends of the 2-1/4" tailpipes down to slip into the 1.75" inlets of the stock tips.
My 1st set of tips were the Ford replacements that were just plain chrome plated steel (without the correct rolled S.S. tips), I got these in 1984.   
Once correct reproductions made of S.S. with the rolled tips became available in 2005, I bought a pair of these ... my chrome ones were pretty rusty by then anyway.
 In 2019, I bought a pair of the custom-made S.S. tips that are externally identical to the O.E. tips but have a 2-1/2" inlet and ZERO internal restriction like the O.E. tips have.   They are works of art !!    Cut my restrictive ends off of my 2-1/14" tailpipes and welded on 2-1/4" I.D. to 2-1/2" O.D. adapters and removed that bottle neck !!
Read all the details in the thread I posted on the subject here:
New '68-69 Rolled Lip Exhaust Tips with 2.5" Inlet - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite
 
Terry ... in previous threads, you have stated you want to put the largest size exhaust on your car that will fit for the least restriction, so you would then want to use these 2.5" I.D. inlet tips to finish it off and make it look stock !!
Doug

By the way, you need to remove all of the rust where you are going to solder. If a spec of rust is left, solder won’t stick.

I kinda got this get out of jail card that works so well I haven't had a speeding ticket since 1977.

update,   took clock apart,   after playing with it for a hour or so,  I found one broken wire,  which I resoldered on,  and found that the ground connection has a 2 point connection,  1 for a wirre the other touches the clock  housing which acts as a ground for the whole car,  whch might not be making a connection so I soldered a wire from that to the housing,  and now the clock works fine

And yet another reason the 69 is king of the Mustangs. :)

Its just like Goldilocks said when she ate from the little bowl...its just right ;)

Lot of people that own sportsroof cars may not ever sat in the back seat. I know when the guy came to look at mine that bought it, I sat in the back because he and his son were up front, I had to almost lay down to ride back there. The roof comes down back there and head room disappears.  

Those of us with our worthless " red-headed-stepchild" Hardtops ... this is probably our only "ONE-UP" / bragging feature we (can) have that no big brother highly sought after Sportsroof car could have !!
That and a back window you can actually see out of, a back seat that 1 or 2 average size people could sit in, and a larger / more usable trunk ... features that just don't matter in the '69-70 Sportsroof world !!
Doug 

The tbird still manages to 1-up even the grande coupe interior.  Bigger back seat with room for full sized adults instead of 5yr old kids, wrap around back seat so you could be comfortable while getting fresh with your girlfriend, I think 3 separate ash trays in the back so your kids could smoke, interior lights in the back, and the trunk is stupid huge compared to even the coupe mustang.
When I go to the shooting range, I use a jogging stroller to carry my stuff.  None of my old cars can fit the jogging stroller in the trunk except the tbird.  On my fastback, it wont even fit through the tiny door.  On my coupe, it will fit in the door, but its too wide to allow the trunk to close.  In the tbird, the stroller fits with tons of room to spare.

I like the gloves on the front of the frame rails: looks like they want to grab a beer or two...

I have the Grande' rear interior panels in my 1969 Hardtop ... got them from a junk yard Grande' in the 80's ... a huge difference vs. the plain steel painted panels.   
I don't know if the basic steel panel is the same as a non-Grande' but padded vinyl is added along with the arm rests and woodgrain panels.       
The padded vinyl is also embossed around the woodgrain, which might be hard to duplicate if the vinyl need replacing. 
Mine are all original including the vinyl.    Definitely a great upgrade if you can find as set in decent shape.
Doug
You can see the vinyl details pretty good in this pic:
 

So we haven’t been standing still, we just haven’t started on it.  Still finishing dads Dart.   I am collecting parts where I can. Mainly when I see a good deal on original parts.  I found a rear valence that needs some work but is in good shape.  I found a grille support bracket as well.  Finally, my Dynacorn floor came in!  Got a killer deal on eBay, and it shipped direct from Dynacorn.

Nice update!
 
So I had a flash of inspiration the other day.  
 
I unscrewed the firewall from the passenger side of the floor pan and used some ratchet straps to first pull the floorpan downward, then and used another 2 straps to get it positioned to where it looked right and level. I am happy to report that it is positioned really well now! I also fitted up the rear quarters, extensions and tail light panel. There are still gaps here and there but I think so far I have been really lucky with panel fitment. It would appear that aftermarket panels do fit well to each other. I have to take pics, but I also was able to fit the piece that goes between the back glass and the trunk. I used the original 69' for measurements and got it really spot on. Will post pics of that later.