nymustang1969

In my 69' with a 351W I'm running the Ford / Shelby dual plane intake which looks to be about the same height as yours. I'm using a 1" space and the same Cobra air cleaner you have. Hood clearance is very tight. With the 1/2" spacer I don't think it will clear the hood.

I used the 1653S headers and the matching JBA H pipe. It was a close fit where the H pipe goes over the top of the slave cylinder though. I have a friend that owns an iron work shop and he made me a slave cylinder drop bracket that lowers the slave cylinder about 1/2 inch. Fits well now. At the time I spoke with JBA technical support and they claim the stock bracket should have worked, but it was too tight in my car.

I'm running the JBA shorties with factory power steering, a/c and z bar clutch linkage. Fit was excellent. Been on the car now for about 9 years now. No leaks and still look like New. Not cheap, but excellent quality.

Motorcraft switch is still available new. Just got one from Rock Auto. You transfer the key tumbler from your old switch to the new one. Easy to do, only special tool required is a paper clip. In my case the wiring plug that goes into the switch was melted and had to be replaced with a new pigtail. I understand that this has been a problem for a long time as the origional Motorcraft switches would come with a new wiring pigtail.

Had them done about 4 years ago. I think it was about 150 dollars. Not cheap, but I got to keep my original hinges instead of the cheap aftermarket copies.

I had my originals rebuild at SMS Auto restoration in New Hampshire. Did a fantastic job. He makes his own oversize rivets with the correct x pattern. Very satisfied. His website is sms-auto.com.

If you are happy with the stock clutch, Luk or Valeo were the OEM manufacture of most Ford clutches. I am using the Luk clutch and very happy with it behind my 351W. You should have an 11" disc with the 164 tooth flywheel. The flywheel should be re-surfaced when doing a clutch replacement.

If when you push down at the back of the hood and it now lays flat, the hood hinges are probably worn at the pivot points. There is a company SMS Auto restoration that rebuilds them. Quality work. He did mine about 2 years ago. Hood now fits great.

Try West Coast Classic Cougar. He usually has used ones in stock at a reasonable price. That's where I got mine.

I am running 16x8 inch vintage wheel works rims with 4.5 inch backspace. Tires are 225x55x16 with the Shelby drop and 1 inch lowering springs. No rubbing. I think you should be good.

I did my wheel a few years ago. Turned out very good. I did the stain as a two step process. Use a gel stain. Regular stain is to thin and transparent. Do the base coat first. When that is dry I used a darker stain to fill in the grainig marks from the hack saw. I let that coat set up a few minutes and lightly wiped it off so it was only in the grain. Let it dry a few days and I top coated it with a urathane clear so my nice wood grain will last many years.

I am running p245/50-16 on vintage wheel works V45. It is a tight fit. Unless you roll the wheel opening lip I don't see how it would fit.

I had the same problem with mine. The rivits become sloppy. I found a great company to rebuild them to like new with correct style rivits. SMS Auto restoration in New Hamshirie. 800-989-6660. Did a great job. Hood now fits great.

From what I have been able to find out, nobody is re-popping the switch. I got a used one from West Coast Classic Cougars. Worked out very well with the re-pop map light.

I have a pair of the hinges that secure the fold down to the floor pan.

I also had mine done by redline gauge works about 3 years ago. Works great. Very fast turn around time. I think it was 2 hundred dollars.

A great website with a very good information on headlight alignment is daniel stern lighting. I used his information to make a wall chart. Worked out great.

I am running vintage wheel works v45 in a 16x8 front and rear.tires are p245-50-16 in the rear and p225-55-16 up front. My car also is lowered 1 inch front and rear. No clearance problems at all.

I hope so. I am already registered and booked the host hotel. I plan on driving down. Probably take two days driving down to make it a nice cruise there.

I have a pair of parking lights that I pulled off a car years ago. In good shape, no rust. Just need to be cleaned up and painted. They have a two wire plug on them. The 69' lights have a three wire plug on them. email me if you are interested. mustang6t9@verizon.net Scott

I had Red Line Gauge Works convert my tach about 2 years ago. I think it was about $125 dollars. Turn around time was about 2 weeks. Works great and don't have to worry about it dieing out on the road.

There is one from ford racing made for the 164 tooth flywheel. I put it in last year, works great. You can look it up online in their calalog. I don't remember the part number. If you can't find it let me know, I still might have the box in my garage.

Pull the padding from the firewall away. Where you need to drill the other holes the firewall has small dimples where the holes need to be drilled out. I added factory A/C to my car years ago. Very easy to do, great upgrade. When arriving at a cruise night on a hot day, my wife and I are so much more comfortable.

I used the Classic Air kit. Excellent quality. Everything fit perfect. Take a look at the condender you get from Classic Air. Much better than the others. It looks and fits exactly like the factory unit. No adapter brackets like the others. Also the drier is just like the factory unit. The air in my Mustang is ice cold. Great going to a cruise night in 90 plus weather and you are nice and cool.

I used the Classic Air kit. Excellent quality. Everything fit perfect. Take a look at the condender you get from Classic Air. Much better than the others. It looks and fits exactly like the factory unit. No adapter brackets like the others. Also the drier is just like the factory unit. The air in my Mustang is ice cold. Great going to a cruise night in 90 plus weather and you are nice and cool.