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Everything posted by nymustang1969

  1. We did Preventive Maintenance service on the cars every 4000 miles. Usually put on a set of pads because it would not make it to the next one without being metal to metal.
  2. You are probably over thinking this. Unless you are going to track your car the Bendix or Raybestos rotors will be fine. Everything is made in China. I was a mechanic for the NYPD for 32 years. That's all we used. And believe me no one is harder on a car than a cop, especially when it is not their personnel car.
  3. Bendix and Raybestos still make the oem rotors. Rock Auto or Summit for best price. Couple that with a set of Porterfield pads and shoes for an excellent brake setup.
  4. I try to use the least aggressive method first. I would try a clay bar. Amazing how it can take trash out of paint.
  5. Replaced my axle bearings last year. Don't member the part number, but I ordered them from Summit Racing. They were Timken bearings, stamped made in Japan. Quality looked very good. Put about 4000 miles on them. No problems.
  6. As a side note I used the JBA exhaust system also, as I wanted to do the complete install at home. The fit and finish of the system was very good, easy install. Only problem was, it was loud. Sounded great, but on the highway, not fun after a while. After one season I swapped out the mufflers for a set of Dynomax super turbo . Much better now.
  7. I am also running the JBA 1653s headers. Mine seem to have about a 1/4" clearance at that point from the header to shock tower. Is it possible that your shock towers are sagging in at that point. Are you running an export brace to stiffen it up? I am also using the JBA H pipe. It fit well, although tight around the lower clutch adjustment rod. I also had to make a p/s drop bracket to lower the slave cylinder about 3/4" JBA Said you should not have to, but with the stock bracket it would not fit. On the plus side I have been running the headers for about 10 years, still look like new and no leaks.
  8. I put a Bosch style relay under the dash in my 69' for the horn. Midlife is correct on the color codes for the wiring. I tapped into the yellow wire for the input power to the relay. I then cut the blue/yellow wire under the dash after it comes down from the turn signal switch. The blue/yellow wire on the switch end is used to trigger the relay, the other end is to the output of the relay to feed the horns. I have a rimblow switch, and this works very well because it takes the load of the horns off the switch. The relay now handles the heavy current.
  9. I'm also using the Infinity Kappa speakers. Very good sound. You have to be careful on the depth of the speakers, if too deep will interfere with the widow regulator in the down position.
  10. Over the winter one of my projects was to rebuild brake set-up. Rebuilt calipers, replaced rotors and used Porterfield brake pads and rear shoes. Very happy with the braking performance with the upgraded pads, much better than the generic Raybestos pads I used for years.
  11. If you are looking for a male cap that fits our Motorcraft distributors Standard Motor Products AL482 will work. It was ment for a Prestolite distributor but fits ours also if you file a small slot that fits the index tab on the distributor. It is marked on the cap. Have been using this for years with the Ford Racing spark plug wires.
  12. I'm running the Ford DuraSpark setup. Very reliable and any parts you might need are available at any parts store.
  13. In my 69' with a 351W I'm running the Ford / Shelby dual plane intake which looks to be about the same height as yours. I'm using a 1" space and the same Cobra air cleaner you have. Hood clearance is very tight. With the 1/2" spacer I don't think it will clear the hood.
  14. I used the 1653S headers and the matching JBA H pipe. It was a close fit where the H pipe goes over the top of the slave cylinder though. I have a friend that owns an iron work shop and he made me a slave cylinder drop bracket that lowers the slave cylinder about 1/2 inch. Fits well now. At the time I spoke with JBA technical support and they claim the stock bracket should have worked, but it was too tight in my car.
  15. I'm running the JBA shorties with factory power steering, a/c and z bar clutch linkage. Fit was excellent. Been on the car now for about 9 years now. No leaks and still look like New. Not cheap, but excellent quality.
  16. Motorcraft switch is still available new. Just got one from Rock Auto. You transfer the key tumbler from your old switch to the new one. Easy to do, only special tool required is a paper clip. In my case the wiring plug that goes into the switch was melted and had to be replaced with a new pigtail. I understand that this has been a problem for a long time as the origional Motorcraft switches would come with a new wiring pigtail.
  17. Had them done about 4 years ago. I think it was about 150 dollars. Not cheap, but I got to keep my original hinges instead of the cheap aftermarket copies.
  18. I had my originals rebuild at SMS Auto restoration in New Hampshire. Did a fantastic job. He makes his own oversize rivets with the correct x pattern. Very satisfied. His website is sms-auto.com.
  19. If you are happy with the stock clutch, Luk or Valeo were the OEM manufacture of most Ford clutches. I am using the Luk clutch and very happy with it behind my 351W. You should have an 11" disc with the 164 tooth flywheel. The flywheel should be re-surfaced when doing a clutch replacement.
  20. If when you push down at the back of the hood and it now lays flat, the hood hinges are probably worn at the pivot points. There is a company SMS Auto restoration that rebuilds them. Quality work. He did mine about 2 years ago. Hood now fits great.
  21. Try West Coast Classic Cougar. He usually has used ones in stock at a reasonable price. That's where I got mine.
  22. I am running 16x8 inch vintage wheel works rims with 4.5 inch backspace. Tires are 225x55x16 with the Shelby drop and 1 inch lowering springs. No rubbing. I think you should be good.
  23. I did my wheel a few years ago. Turned out very good. I did the stain as a two step process. Use a gel stain. Regular stain is to thin and transparent. Do the base coat first. When that is dry I used a darker stain to fill in the grainig marks from the hack saw. I let that coat set up a few minutes and lightly wiped it off so it was only in the grain. Let it dry a few days and I top coated it with a urathane clear so my nice wood grain will last many years.
  24. I am running p245/50-16 on vintage wheel works V45. It is a tight fit. Unless you roll the wheel opening lip I don't see how it would fit.
  25. I had the same problem with mine. The rivits become sloppy. I found a great company to rebuild them to like new with correct style rivits. SMS Auto restoration in New Hamshirie. 800-989-6660. Did a great job. Hood now fits great.
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