nymustang1969

The idle circuit on the Edelbrock carbs tend to get gummed up. Unscrew the two idle mixture screws and spray in some carb cleaner. Blow out with some compressed air if you can. Then put idle mixture screws back in, adjusting to 2-2 1/2 turns out. Good chance this will solve your problem.

I used a 1" phenolic spacer with a rear pcv port on it from Tran-dapt. Serves a duel purpose, insulates the carb from heat, and a stock looking pcv set-up.

The Granada did not come out till 1975, so the part number would start out with a D5.

From the part number those are 1970 spindles. They use a different larger size bearing. You can either exchange the rotors for 1970 ones, or change the bearings and races to the 1970 design. The actual rotor is the same.

Glad my response was able to help you out. Also while I was behind the dash I put a relay on the a/c blower motor circuit. Between the blower motor and the clutch on the compressor that circuit can draw 25-30 amps. Putting that circuit on a relay will reduce the higher current load on the ignition switch.

Check the plug on the back of the ignition switch. It is common to have a burnt up connector on the plug on cars with a/c due to the higher current load. Back in the day when you bought a new Motorcraft / Ford ignition switch it came with a new pigtail to make a proper repair.

The blend door is operated by the cable on the control panel, not vacuum.

I took some 1/4" vacuum tubing and slit it down the side. Then slipped it over the parking brake cable. This way no rattle or rub marks on the nice painted floor pan.

There should be a spring in the engine compartment going for the z-bar to the firewall. Also under the dash is the over center spring which also assists in returning the pedal up.

Are you sure you don't mean 3m strip caulk. The part # for that is 08578.

I installed a Hurst super shifter years ago in a friends car. The super shifter uses straight rods going from the shifter to the transmission levers. Thus the shifter does not come up through the stock hole. Floor had to be cut. If you want to use the stock hole you need the completion plus shifter.

Check out Lars Corporation. They make a brand new pump that fits into your original housing. I put one in about 2 years ago. Works great and quite as a mouse. Very impressed with it.

Check the cylinder heads to make sure the header sits flush. When I installed mine there was a small bump on the casting that I had to grind down. My engine was on a stand at the time and was easy to see the problem. Might not be as easy to see with the engine installed.

We did Preventive Maintenance service on the cars every 4000 miles. Usually put on a set of pads because it would not make it to the next one without being metal to metal.

You are probably over thinking this. Unless you are going to track your car the Bendix or Raybestos rotors will be fine. Everything is made in China. I was a mechanic for the NYPD for 32 years. That's all we used. And believe me no one is harder on a car than a cop, especially when it is not their personnel car.