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About nymustang1969

  • Rank
    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 06/22/1955


  • Location
    staten island, ny

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  1. I'm also using the Infinity Kappa speakers. Very good sound. You have to be careful on the depth of the speakers, if too deep will interfere with the widow regulator in the down position.
  2. Over the winter one of my projects was to rebuild brake set-up. Rebuilt calipers, replaced rotors and used Porterfield brake pads and rear shoes. Very happy with the braking performance with the upgraded pads, much better than the generic Raybestos pads I used for years.
  3. If you are looking for a male cap that fits our Motorcraft distributors Standard Motor Products AL482 will work. It was ment for a Prestolite distributor but fits ours also if you file a small slot that fits the index tab on the distributor. It is marked on the cap. Have been using this for years with the Ford Racing spark plug wires.
  4. I'm running the Ford DuraSpark setup. Very reliable and any parts you might need are available at any parts store.
  5. In my 69' with a 351W I'm running the Ford / Shelby dual plane intake which looks to be about the same height as yours. I'm using a 1" space and the same Cobra air cleaner you have. Hood clearance is very tight. With the 1/2" spacer I don't think it will clear the hood.
  6. I used the 1653S headers and the matching JBA H pipe. It was a close fit where the H pipe goes over the top of the slave cylinder though. I have a friend that owns an iron work shop and he made me a slave cylinder drop bracket that lowers the slave cylinder about 1/2 inch. Fits well now. At the time I spoke with JBA technical support and they claim the stock bracket should have worked, but it was too tight in my car.
  7. I'm running the JBA shorties with factory power steering, a/c and z bar clutch linkage. Fit was excellent. Been on the car now for about 9 years now. No leaks and still look like New. Not cheap, but excellent quality.
  8. Motorcraft switch is still available new. Just got one from Rock Auto. You transfer the key tumbler from your old switch to the new one. Easy to do, only special tool required is a paper clip. In my case the wiring plug that goes into the switch was melted and had to be replaced with a new pigtail. I understand that this has been a problem for a long time as the origional Motorcraft switches would come with a new wiring pigtail.
  9. Had them done about 4 years ago. I think it was about 150 dollars. Not cheap, but I got to keep my original hinges instead of the cheap aftermarket copies.
  10. I had my originals rebuild at SMS Auto restoration in New Hampshire. Did a fantastic job. He makes his own oversize rivets with the correct x pattern. Very satisfied. His website is sms-auto.com.
  11. If you are happy with the stock clutch, Luk or Valeo were the OEM manufacture of most Ford clutches. I am using the Luk clutch and very happy with it behind my 351W. You should have an 11" disc with the 164 tooth flywheel. The flywheel should be re-surfaced when doing a clutch replacement.
  12. If when you push down at the back of the hood and it now lays flat, the hood hinges are probably worn at the pivot points. There is a company SMS Auto restoration that rebuilds them. Quality work. He did mine about 2 years ago. Hood now fits great.
  13. Try West Coast Classic Cougar. He usually has used ones in stock at a reasonable price. That's where I got mine.
  14. I am running 16x8 inch vintage wheel works rims with 4.5 inch backspace. Tires are 225x55x16 with the Shelby drop and 1 inch lowering springs. No rubbing. I think you should be good.
  15. I did my wheel a few years ago. Turned out very good. I did the stain as a two step process. Use a gel stain. Regular stain is to thin and transparent. Do the base coat first. When that is dry I used a darker stain to fill in the grainig marks from the hack saw. I let that coat set up a few minutes and lightly wiped it off so it was only in the grain. Let it dry a few days and I top coated it with a urathane clear so my nice wood grain will last many years.
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