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There's another way of determining whether it is a stroker: the amount of rubber on the rear quarters and lack of tread depth on the rear tires. Oh, you can also ask for the gas receipts and mileage calculations.

Aslanefe, Thanks for a great advice! I’ll arrange that asap. I wonder why I did not see that myself... The front end geometry is just amazing. Best I ever had on my car in 22 years. It was done by a local “front end voodoo wizard”, back where I was in NW FL. Vannoy’s Tires was the name of that shop. Done 3 years ago and still feels amazing. Car drives in a straight line, whatever the speed is. I shouldn’t say this, but I hit 140 mph on the highway this weekend, to give the motor a little “shake” and get the pipes fresh and clean. Had a passenger with me who couldn’t believe we were that fast. Felt like 90-100, no more. I also cleaned it today. First time I did the engine bay, since the car was restored (11k miles now). God, I love that car!! G

This is from the Daniel Stern website: The best relays to use in setting up a headlamp circuit have dual 87 terminals. That lets you use one 87 terminal to power the left filament, and the other 87 terminal to power the right filament in whatever circuit you're building (low beam, high beam, fog lamp, etc.). Note that a terminal labelled 87a is not the same as an 87 terminal.

Fairly certain you can swap out the input shaft but will also need a new front bearing retainer. You will need to drop the counter shaft to do the job. A dummy counter shaft will hold the counter shaft rollers in place but will not hold the counter shaft thrust washers in place. When I made a dummy shaft I used a hollow tube. I can dig it out and measure it if you need that info. I put a piece of welding rod longer than the length of the case through the center of the hollow dummy shaft tube. The hollow tube dummy shaft held the rollers in place. And the welding rod through the center of the hollow tube stopped the thrust washers from sliding completely out of place and let the counter shaft drop far enough. There are some rollers that will likely fall out of the input shaft when it is removed. Get yourself some transmission assembly grease to hold the rollers in place inside the input shaft during installation. The trans assembly grease will melt easily and mix into the oil. Many people use chassis or wheel bearing grease and it will not melt and mix into the oil very well. The big block and small block main shaft and tail shaft housings are different as well. I don't know about the shifter mount locations. But you will need a drive shaft yoke to fit it. If you are getting new parts, the easiest but sometimes not the cheapest place to get all the parts you need is David Kee Toploaders, like barnett468 mentioned. I purchased a lot of parts from him when I built mine. He will answer any questions you have. Just not to easy to get on the phone.

I see progress, even when it is 2 steps forward and 1 back. Believe me, I know this process very well. View my build photo album by clicking on the image

Besides the tedious painting required at the faces and edges, I built a small roller to eliminate taping, spraying, and brush marks. Used a extra spacer for an under counter kitchen appliance, bolt, nuts, foam weatherstrip insulation, and Testors silver/argent model paint. Foil for the paint tray. Worked like a charm!