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Everything posted by Midlife

  1. Power for 950 does come from the top leftmost fuse, same as radio and backup lights.
  2. Damn straight. If you want love, it costs big time!
  3. I could have sworn it was RPM's fault...
  4. Should be part of the main underdash harness. Look for a squarish plug with 3 wires on the passenger side, probably located now behind the kick panel. The wires are black/yellow, red, and blue.
  5. I typically cut the pins off, fold the wires and then put heat shrink over the exposed end for insulation; then wrap them inside the harness tape so they are not seen. For extra protection, you can also remove those pins from the back of the fuse box and do the same thing. You need to keep the 3 pin used version of the voltage regulator connector and do not use the version for the alternator indicator lamp (4 pin version).
  6. When this happens again, jiggle the shifter and see if it starts. If it does, then the neutral safety switch/backup light module needs alignment/adjustment. It is located at the transmission.
  7. I'm kinda partial to this grill cover:
  8. Spoiler is not oriented even close to being correct. Wires showing under the bottom dash.
  9. I've seen a fusible link on a 1969 headlight harness, but that seems to be a rare exception.
  10. Good luck, as most databases don't go back before 1900.
  11. You talking to me? Watch it bub...both Mach1Driver and i control the smoke Jeannie in your Mustang...so be nice to us!
  12. Sounds definitely like one of your gauges (not ammeter) is shorted to case. Measure resistance from gauge post to dash cluster housing and if you see 1 or 14 ohms, then one of the gauges is shorted. You'll need to loosen up the gauge nuts, move the gauge around, and then tighten the nut back up and try again. The problem is that any one of the non-ammeter gauges is shorted, and since they are all connected via the IVR output, you won't be able to identify which gauge is shorted. Another solution is to wrap the small rectangular hole that the gauge posts stick out from the back of the dash cluster with black electrical tape.
  13. These are wires going to the ignition switch? OK...strong violet but thin wire is one branch of the proportioning brake valve signal line. Pink resistor wire is paired with green/red wire for non-tach applications. You CANNOT solder resistor wires unless you are experienced with silver solder which jewelers use. The wire won't accept normal solder and must be butt-spliced. These have nothing to do with dash lamps nor does the shorted circuit card described by Mach1Driver. The problem probably lies in the fuse box clip contacts or the headlight rheostat within the headlight switch.
  14. Sounds like he doesn't want to take the time to measure...
  15. The higher candlepower lamp may be hotter in actual temperature than the 194 bulb, and may cause your blue diffuser to melt...just a thought. You might want to consider LED bulbs as a replacement for anything but the alternator indicator lamp, which requires an incandescent bulb to work the voltage regulator.
  16. Get the body in shape, including everything that is structural. Without that foundation, everything else will be harder to do. Once done, concentrate on getting it to be a roller (brakes, steering, suspension) so you can trailer it to a paint shop in the future. Before paint, make sure the doors, fenders, windows, etc. all fit correctly. Then after paint, consider installing the wiring next, then the engine and interior. It will be a long process...so be patient.
  17. OMG! With all that's missing, methinks you've been out in the sun waaaay too long! Just remember, when you come back pissing and moaning about something, we'll remind you about how much you love this stuff!
  18. Running lights don't go through the turn signal switch, but brake lights and turn signals do (mixed at the turn signal switch). Parking lights will work only at the first detent of the switch. Dash lights go through the fuse box, so I would double-check you have voltage on both sides of the smallest fuse. Sounds to me like a combination of problems, but the turn signal switch is always suspect given most of your symptoms.
  19. The wiring itself doesn't degrade, except in the engine compartment under intense heat and owner butchering. If the insulation is brittle there, time to simply replace it with reproductions. Most of the problems with wiring is due to corrosion at connections, particularly the fuse box. About 20% of all pins need re-crimping and molded connectors need the wires pulled/tugged away from the connector to "tighten" the molded crimps. For tail-lights, corrosion is the biggest problem as well as the need to recrimp any ground lugs. The large fraction of my work deals with PO butchery and bringing that back to stock configuration. If a wire gets overloaded and burned, chances are poor that the harness can be refurbished; it all depends upon the particular wire and how extensive throughout the harness the issue extends. Any power lines that are burned means you need to replace the harness.
  20. A common problem with 69/70 dash clusters is that the gauges (except ammeter) don't work. The reason is that one of the various posts of the gauges is touching the metal housing, which basically shorts all of the gauges. This often happens when one replaces the circuit card. To solve, take the dash out and loosen the 2 bolts for one of the gauges and re-set the gauge in the housing and re-tighten the bolts. If you have a multimeter, measure the resistance between any one of the posts and the metal housing of the dash cluster. If you see 1 or 14 ohms, then one of the bolts is touching. You will spend a fair amount of time re-setting the gauges until you get a reading of kilo- or mega-ohms: that is the reading you want. You can't see the issue, as the view is obstructed by the circuit card and the cardboard insulation pad underneath the bolt nuts.
  21. Idle is waaaay too high. Should be somewhere around 800 rpm; 1600 when cold.
  22. Phone chargers are typically fused BAT power, so leaving a voltmeter hooked up will draw power from the battery over time. If you unplug that charger when not in use, you'll be OK.
  23. A voltmeter inside the passenger compartment simply needs to tap a fused ACC line. The simplest/easiest wire is the yellow/black wire for the factory radio. Simply splice into it. You'll need a ground wire, but that's easy to do: simply attach it to any good chassis point.
  24. Best/simplest way to avoid in the future is first, replace the voltage regulator and battery, then get a simple volt-meter and monitor it for anything beyond 14.8V.
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