Midlife

Kudo's to whoever is monitoring the forum: it appears that much of the spam is no longer being posted. Thank YOU!

Disconnect the green plug from the firewall/fusebox. Then do a continuity check for the row with the large pin and 4 smaller pins in a row.

My usual turn-around time is less than it takes for packages to transit to me. With front end damage in the past, I'd focus upon checking the continuity of pins from the firewall block to the valence and hood scoop pins.

1970 is incompatible with 1969 front valence blinkers. The biggest possibility is that your turn signal is not putting out signals to the front, but the dash blinkers are on the same signal line. Disconnect the hood scoop harness and try again...

No way! It's impossible that I was correct!! Just ask my ex-wife!

The ground for the factory fuel sending unit is the chassis. Run the FUEL SND to the sending unit and ground the other wire somewhere conveniently, which could be in the dash board area behind the dash cluster.

Can I get bacon with my spam?

I bought the IR 80 gallon compressor back in 2002 fir something like $1800. Was extremely reliable. You need to drain the water out of the tank a couple times a year, and install piping that can catch moisture before the end of the hose. I had some difficulty finding filter and oil replacements, as there was no local dealer near me.

That's needed, but doesn't ensure that either post of the gauge doesn't get offset and touch the metal housing.

Ahhhh...the well known (to some!) problem of 1969/70 gauges not working when replacing a circuit card. The gauges first pass through a small rectangular hole, then a cardboard rectangular piece fits over the two posts onto the metal housing, then the circuit card, then the two nuts which hold everything together. The problem? Any one of the gauges' posts can contact the metal housing without you seeing it, shorting all of the oil, water, and fuel gauges to ground, as they are all tied together with the CVR output. The ammeter is separate and MUST not touch the housing, as it will cause a dead short to either of the two hot and non-fused wires. How to test? Unsnap the battery snaps on the CVR and measure the resistance from any post of the oil/fuel/water gauges to the metal housing. You'll either see something very close to 0 ohms or 14 ohms, depending upon which post is shorted. How to fix? Loosen each gauge up, reposition, and retighten. Test again. This is a PITA as you don't know which gauge is shorting. Better solution is to remove the circuit card, then the cardboard insulated pad, and line each rectangular hole with black electrical tape. Put everything back together and you should be good to go.

Sway Bars are easily found at your local pubs after drinking heavily...

Grammar Police says that should be "Here Here"

Aye.

It sure sounds like you have a grounding issue...do you have a ground strap from the engine to the firewall? The other possibility is that you have a pinched wire somewhere in the steering column.

I'm looking forward to TSA pat-downs due to metal in my neck, back, and 2 hips!

I could probably do it, but I had hip replacement surgery a week ago and am hardly mobile.

No! The tranny tail housing may not give a good ground to the chassis: please re-locate to the unibody. This may be the source of your problem.

Ha! Getting married is a millstone, not a milestone! LOL

Two days ago, I refurbished my 1000th underdash harness! I started the business on March 22, 2008, so it has taken some time to get to this point! Most of the work has been on harnesses, but there have been 53 Cougars, a smattering of Torinos, Montegos, and Falcons, but no trucks. My first truck was yesterday, # 1001! I would have reached this point earlier, but I've had 2 back surgeries, one hip replacement, and a Cat5 hurricane that interrupted work. Based upon the number of Mustangs produced, I was expecting more 65/66's than later years, but that's not the case. Clearly, 69 and 70's are the most popular, with 68 close behind, with all three accounting for 50% of my work. Part of this may be due to the costs and availability of reproductions (there are no 71-73 repros).

I thought Clevor was the 351C heads on the Windsor motor...

No, but I often sing: "I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK..." while sawing logs...

Some of us old farts like taking naps...

I can't figure out why they post here. It's in Russian; a hobby site isn't interested in what they have to say...it is simply wasted effort on their part to post.

OMG! The number of spam posts is getting waaaaay out of hand. Someone really needs to do a good deletion of these posts....

They're back!