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Everything posted by Midlife

  1. Since when were you released from reporting to your parole officer?
  2. It's too bad Harbor Freight itself is not recalled.
  3. Dash cluster bulbs have two traces each on the circuit card: a signal and a ground. More than likely one or the other traces are not making good contact with the dash cluster pin or the trace is broken somewhere.
  4. 1970's have multiple ground points: one at the passenger side where relays are located, another near the headlight switch. It could be your circuit card is damaged as well.
  5. Ground MAY be there for proof-out circuitry, but that's only speculation. 1970 shared the ignition switch with the 1971 Mustang/Cougar.
  6. It depends upon whether you have a tach or not in the dash. Non-tach car grounds are pin 8; tach dash cars are pin 4. You may be confusing pin 11 on non-tach dashs with a combination violet and black wire: this is actually the CVR power input line with a violet resistor wire.
  7. Just think: you'll be close to me when you move to FL. Second thoughts???
  8. He's afraid of Mustangs.
  9. I think you need to re-install plug wires sometime after step 10...
  10. Hmmmm...methinks you're also polishing the customers checkbook.
  11. Don't forget you have to loosen the shackles and front eye bolts from spec and drive a couple of miles for things to settle down. Then tighten everything to spec while resting on its suspension. At that point, if you still have that amount of height discrepancy, then it's either the car or the springs.
  12. Midlife


    Just lengthen the body a bit. C'mon...it's not that difficult to do with a chain and a come-along. Might need a metal stretching wheel as well.
  13. The schematic for "charging" is for the ammeter version; a different schematic is required for the alternator indicator lamp.
  14. Perhaps they simply wanted to admire your work.
  15. Your rheostat or wiper on the rheostat is bad in all probability. Replace the switch. The circuit breaker really doesn't enter into the circuit and from what you describe, neither does the fuse box fuse for the dash lamps.
  16. Is the problem that the gauges are not registering? It could be that the gauges are grounding on the metal case when you replace the circuit card.
  17. Ummm...no. Unless the gauge is toast (which this one isn't), I'm not breaking into the gauge itself. Those in my inventory that are toast are very rusty and probably don't want to be broken into without a lot a swear words... Another way of saying things: I don't have any gauges that are disposable!
  18. The gauges really don't change in their basic design; only how they fasten to the dash cluster housing. Well I'll be damned! I looked at a 69 fuel gauge, and sure enough, there are two small holes, and barely sticking out below them is a white cogged wheel. It does take a fair amount of force to move the cog.
  19. Huh. I'll have to examine some of my gauges. Usually, all one sees are the 2 posts sticking up through the dash cluster where you attach the wires (before 69) or the nuts that hold the circuit card on.
  20. Good jacking points. For the front, put the jacks on the frame rails back towards where the rails, curved floor pans and torque boxes meet (although the top one looks a bit rusted out under the red arrow head).
  21. There's one tool I've always drooled over to have and haven't pulled the trigger: an English Wheel. I've done all of my metal shaping by hand so far, and my fingers are getting just a wee bit tired.
  22. Please disconnect the battery before attempting to remove the ignition switch. Ask me how I know.
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