PaleRider

I paid 800 for a rebuilt center section on ebay for 8 inch. So sounds like a good deal

I researched all this when I did my 66. Ended up going aaw. I went aftermarket because I was adding more stuff. Headlights, amp, gauge set, etc. there is write up someone did on Cjs that is real good. Should take a look into to see how hard. It was easier for me than I initially thought. On my 67 project I'm going same route.

tins mans - used on 2 different cars - look like they are factory. nice fit

bleeders always pointing up - need to be close to highest point on caliper - or will never get air out.

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I did it in my 1970 with a champion 3 row made for 1970. Fits nice - I popped riveted some aluminum brackets I made up and was able to mount to the radiator bracket instead of running ties thru the fins. Have a march set up and plenty of clearance on my 347. I think I had posted some pics on this forum a while ago. Originally I got one out of boneyard and one of the fans burned out. I got a new one thru Rock auto - no problems to daye - couple years. I got the idea from the attached post. http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/cooling-articles/482048-junkyard-upgrade-dual-electric-fans.html

thanks that is what I will eventually do. Need to replace almost every part anyway.

Ive got a 69 vert that needs a full restoration. I'm contemplating putting 69 fastback qtrs on it like I seen in Overhaulin. I already have a 70 Boss Tribute so I thought I would like to do a 69 type style. I think the front end on 69 is a litle more aggresive. I can probably get head light buckets from a local mustang boneyard. Just curious if anyone else has done this and is it basically a bolt on affair. thanks

seems expensive to me. Albeit never paid for rebuild - either bought used or crate (302 out of fox body 1500 and a fordstroker a few years back $5k). You can get a nice crate motor for that kind of money that may have little more HP. I'd consider buying the ford racing 306 and pulling your parts off current motor and putting on that (timing cover, pump, pan, etc.). http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-306ci-crate-engine.html?utm_content=Engine+-+Crate+Engine%7CFord+Racing&utm_campaign=Category+%2F+ProductName&utm_source=Google-pla&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_term=&AMID=frpp-306ci-crate-engine-GSNoFitmentV1&adtype=pla

just curious what areas are these things good for. Cowl and wheel welds are the only place that comes to mind where you can get clamp around both sides.

New skins are no guarantee they will align like new either. I used skins on my 70 - came out ok. Guy that did my car was also doing a 69 and used repo doors - said it was a lot more cost effective and looked just as good. I put new Dynacorns on my 66 and they fit fine (with tweaking). I would do repo doors. Plan to do that on my 70 vert when I get to it.

I used AAW on my 66 project. If you go to CJ there is a nice writeup on work involved. It went a lot quicker than I expected. When you first look at all the wire it can be a little overwhelming but if you take a section at a time - very manageable. I went with AAW since I put in electic fan, one wire alternator, aftermarket gauges, Halogen lights. Really nice is that each wire is labeled for use. Im sure painless has that too. I think stock would be quicker but if you go aftermarket AAW gets a lot of good press.

Ive done my own quarters on a 66. I watched the overhaulin show last nite. They did not use a full qtr. Tied it up on top - which makes sense. They made grafting the lid look pretty easy. The car I'm getting is a 70 but I like the 69 qtrs with built in scoops. Plus I already have a 70 fastback would like some differences. It will probably be awhile till I get to this point - Ive got a 66 I need to finish. I was looking at your spoiler at they are nice. I just like the looks of the fastback more a little more subtle. If you need a guinea pig let me know. :smile:

I found a post on this site from the guys whose ride got overhauled. Cool stuff. Here is the link to the episode - I got amazon prime do will be watching it tonight. http://search.ovguide.com/?ci=85&q=Overhaulin%27+%28%28Mustang+Sting%29+OR+%28Season+4+Episode+18%29%29e

Here a link with some picts of Foos car. Hmm next project. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-talk/138266-1969-mustang-mach-1-convertible-sportsroof-quarters.html

I need the quaters - not sure I'd trust my skills on grafting trunk lid though.

Considering buying a rusted up 70 vert. Will need all sheet metal. Ran across a picture of one with fastback quarters and endcaps. And like the look. Just was curious what was done for trunk lid. Anyone have any experience with this? http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/12/28/hemmings-find-of-the-day-1970-ford-mustang-boss-351-convertible/

+1 on tin mans - have used twice now on 2 different 70s. Nice fit and definitely noticeable. Cars felt more solid.

That's not factory - I actually did this to my 70. If you dig around you can find a post on this site about doing it. I know its not really making any difference. Just did not like the idea of non functional unit. Have not had any problem with rain or debris. But not a daily driver either.

I've seen both that you mentioned cant advise but i would run a brace on doors.

I Like Mikestangs advice - I backed over a bush and messed up my valance - easy to swap out, paint and put a new one on. I actually had to go thru a couple valances - I think Dynacorn makes a good one that should fit pretty good. Assuming you have orginal quaters.

Check to make sure you have the vaccuum line from c4 hooked up. also check fluid make sure not burnt.

Can't really help you I've got a 302 with CVF and stock pump with Chocko rebuilt OEM parts on my 66. CVF is a nice set up though. Have a march on my 70 with which is also 302. Marches are more polished and clearcoated but can't run stock fuel pump and a lot more money. I would check with Chocko - very knowledgeable - he'd be able to tell you if the additional PSI will be a problem.

I did mine on my 66 with engine and drivetrain on. Once I put everything back together still lines up good. Make sure you check your back valance for fit before welding. Also make sure trunk area is square. - just measure diagonlly accross - trunk. Good luck

I used Fatmat - not on roof though. Did put on inside doors sticks fine - no smell