BuckeyeDemon

http://mustangsandmore.com/pages/Boss_and_Mach_Info.html
" The ribs on a shaker scoop are painted argent. Some folks paint the shaker semi-gloss black then sand the ribs clean, but that's not accepted by MCA judging if that's a concern. "
https://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php?topic=4839.0
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=938.0
http://www.boss302.com/smf/index.php?topic=55230.0

I used ATI PN#: 917511AK.  it had the 3-bolt pattern pulley, 3" offset, 2pm timing marks (A) and was 0 balance. 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-917511ak
 

I used ATI PN#: 917511AK.  it had the 3-bolt pattern pulley, 3" offset, 2pm timing marks (A) and was 0 balance. 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-917511ak
 

it seems there are a few flavors/differences in water pumps/timing covers, etc resulting in some fasteners not working out.  if a few fasteners don't work, then you can always measure and purchase something different (length, thread size, etc) from ARP.

seems like some good insurance to have another quart or two and some baffling in the pan when spending a little longer at higher RPM running down the track (where the oil gets pumped up to the top) or launching hard (where the oil will try to rush towards the back).

if you have not purchased radiator/water pump parts, then consider switching to a 70 setup where the inlet and outlet of the radiator are on opposite sides. this impacts the timing pointer location on the damper.
ATI offers the various configurations for Ford.

there is no problem with the pump. it just has the radiators outlet on the lower passenger side.  the 70 radiators have the outlet on the lower drivers side.  so if you went with the 70 and up type radiators that had opposite side inlet/outlet or some other aftermarket radiator, then you would want the corresponding pump.  I believe it's generally preferred to have inlet and outlet on opposite sides (unless it's a double pass).  This does not imply the 69 setup doesn't work.

seems like some good insurance to have another quart or two and some baffling in the pan when spending a little longer at higher RPM running down the track (where the oil gets pumped up to the top) or launching hard (where the oil will try to rush towards the back).

get a lower profile t-style pan.

get a lower profile t-style pan.

center section:  price difference is anywhere from $35 cheaper to $310 more (i believe you get a lot better differential).
http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/strange-pro-ford-9-n-case-posi-unit-std-gear-yoke.html/
31 spline axle package: $421
http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/ford-mopar-or-chevy-alloy-axles-ret-plts-brgs-1-2-stud-kit.html/
35 spline axle package: $421
http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/35-spl-alloy-axles-retainer-plates-bearings-1-2-stud-kit.html/
i think it seems crazy not to go 35 if building all new (unless you don't want a few extra pounds of weight).
here is a 35 spline

have you priced out the difference between going with a 31 spline setup and a 35 spline setup?  if you have to buy all the parts, i think you may find the cost difference is very small (comparing prices at strange as an example).

i've made my own.  it's not something i like doing.  i don't believe you will save cash making something already available (assuming what's available is what meets your requirements and don't need rework).  
the tube bender/flaring tools will likely be different for the brakes on the rear axle as compared to the fuel lines.  so you'll probably need tools for each.

and it was the first show of the year (been to several cruise-ins).  great day. almost had a blue 69 mach mach on the other side but he missed parking next to me by one spot...

not much happening here.  I've been playing around with the carb on the mustang.  trying to prove to myself i can tune a carb (i ordered an 1100 CFM dominator for the falcon and wanted to make sure i gained some knowledge on this car which is pretty tame) and in addition see if any improvements could be made.
i changed out the hardline for PTFE hose that has allowed me to make tuning changes in just a few minutes (it took 7 minutes to make a jet and PVCR change after the mod).  I also tapped all of the idle and T-slot feeds at once in the event i needed to add a restrictor. 
 



 
I've also been working on the exhaust for the falcon.  I'm about ready to tear the car down and take it to the shop for a full chromo cage.
I couldn't make an x-pipe work, so it will be a small flex H.  These are 3.5" 304SS pipes.  Material is from Stainless Works.  I have not been impressed with the bends or the tubing.  I had used SPD for the header tubing and it was a lot better.  I don't know if the mandrel bends in 3.5" tubing from SPD would have been better or not.
I made the tubes exit at slight turndowns.  I really don't want to see this exhaust from the outside. 




 

and it was the first show of the year (been to several cruise-ins).  great day. almost had a blue 69 mach mach on the other side but he missed parking next to me by one spot...

and it was the first show of the year (been to several cruise-ins).  great day. almost had a blue 69 mach mach on the other side but he missed parking next to me by one spot...

RPM,
not sure if you comment was directed at me or not.  but if it was...
i welded the nut on the inside and cut the spacer down...

how do you install the interior quarter panels? or will you be going custom?

thanks for the positive feedback. the accelerator linkage was certainly one of the items to be addressed during this process. when i first posted on this site about doing this last year, i was expecting to have to cut a channel for the linkage. it turns out that everything worked out ok.
 
i've spent the last couple days cleaning up a few items with the shaker, radiator, linkage's, etc, before i pull everything back out and continue fitting up the fenders.
 
 
of course the original bracket didn't work with this mechanical carb. i had to bend it and make a new end to clear the accelerator pump.

 
there is quite a bit of clearance for the cable and bracket. i believe i had responded to moteaux a few weeks ago about doing a 1 1/4" drop base with the concern of the throttle linkage possibly interfering. without the angle i put in the base, the bracket would have come very close to hitting. if a person were to put an 1/8" bend in the bracket it would probably clear.

 
even at WOT there is plenty of clearance.

 
i had asked Pro-Systems when they built the carb if i could get the original holley finish because i'm trying to minimize how far i stray from looking original. they wouldn't do it. turns out like you have recognized, you can't see the carb anyways!

 

a flavor of a mount i made a few years ago.
 

 

 
 
 
ended up moving it to behind the seat.
 

a flavor of a mount i made a few years ago.
 

 

 
 
 
ended up moving it to behind the seat.
 

a flavor of a mount i made a few years ago.
 

 

 
 
 
ended up moving it to behind the seat.
 

thanks for the positive feedback. the accelerator linkage was certainly one of the items to be addressed during this process. when i first posted on this site about doing this last year, i was expecting to have to cut a channel for the linkage. it turns out that everything worked out ok.
 
i've spent the last couple days cleaning up a few items with the shaker, radiator, linkage's, etc, before i pull everything back out and continue fitting up the fenders.
 
 
of course the original bracket didn't work with this mechanical carb. i had to bend it and make a new end to clear the accelerator pump.

 
there is quite a bit of clearance for the cable and bracket. i believe i had responded to moteaux a few weeks ago about doing a 1 1/4" drop base with the concern of the throttle linkage possibly interfering. without the angle i put in the base, the bracket would have come very close to hitting. if a person were to put an 1/8" bend in the bracket it would probably clear.

 
even at WOT there is plenty of clearance.

 
i had asked Pro-Systems when they built the carb if i could get the original holley finish because i'm trying to minimize how far i stray from looking original. they wouldn't do it. turns out like you have recognized, you can't see the carb anyways!