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That's what I was afraid of; I purchased 2 of them from Mustangs Unlimited just before they closed down. I would think that there is only one manufacturer and mine will have the same issue. Good thing I got them cheap.

Is the manual steering center link you are using an original one or a repop?

When I said under hood components, I meant the valve covers, air cleaner, PS pump etc; never re-sprayed an engine while it is in the car so I do not know if it is possible. But if I had to paint a whole engine and wanted to do it right, I would remove it. If you have the proper tools (including an engine hoist) and mechanically inclined, it is not complicated, but one thing to keep in mind is; on an old car you can always run into problems, like broken exhaust stud , water pump bolt etc and fixing those may require more tools and effort.

In my opinion, rare paint and interior combination does not make a 70 vert with a 302 high value car (and you stated that red is not the original color) and having a sentimental value to you does not make it a high value car to others either. If you like it original, and want to spend time working on it, then painting under hood components are easy tasks.

Depends on what you want to do with the car; do you enjoy driving it or taking to shows to get trophies? Is it a high value car? I like to drive my cars, my 69 Grande is my daily driver. So I do not sweat too much about concourse stuff; the wrong color of PS pump does not bother me much (unless it is an ugly color) if the paint on the pump is in good condition, I'll use it like that instead of draining the fluid and removing it; if it is removed for some other reason and it needs paint I'll paint it to factory color. So, it is your decision as you will get all kinds of different opinions from different people (like mine) on your car.

I used 71-72 Mustang switch on 70, spliced the wires/connector from 70 to 71-72 switch a few years ago as it was cheaper. The repop 71-72 switch is not of high quality, had to add a spring so the key will return back to run position itself after start position. You can open the 70 switch, clean and solder the loose ground wire. There are a few moving contacts inside but not too complex. Will be cleaning/repairing the original 70 switch and put that back when I get a chance.

Thanks mate, I was hoping Astra rack might have more stroke and less reduction in turning radius. Cheers.

Did you measure and compare the repop and original doors? The length on top and bottom, diagonal etc.

Someone planning to come back an other day for the rest of the stuff inside.

That is a good idea to cut it and make it smaller if using the led panel and gain more trunk space. You also moved the socket location to side, I keep bumping and poping my left socket off if I am not careful when I put something in the trunk.

Making good progress. Is that a 70 seat belt or 69 you are using? I thought 70 had one buckle that the retrectable catch hooked on and the shoulder belt clipped to the slot on retractable catch.

Can you measure the stroke on your RRS rack to see if it is the same as Astra (about 16.5 cm)? Thanks

May be they need some time to settle. What was wrong with your stock springs?

I bought mine from them, so I get tech support from Chris when I need it. Problem is, you have to play with the settings, try it, get logs, analyze, do changes and see what the change did. And it is not possible to create the same condition after a change to see what the change did unless you are on a dyno in an environmental chamber. I have to tune the stalling sometimes when coming to a sudden stop when coolant temp is below 160, I can create that condition once or may be twice in a day and sometimes it will stall, some times not. I have to wait for winter and close to freezing temps to go back to tuning for cold conditions. Mine is a true daily driver driven on every weather so it is more challenging/time consuming to tune it compared to a sunny day driver that you warm it up while you are dusting the car. Does that make sense?

Have you or any other Sniper users tuned their's yet? I have been working on tuning mine for about 6 months and still have stalling issue in certain conditions. I would install the Hypershark and enable timing control after tuning the fuel with your current dizzy.

Thanks, I should better buy 2 cans for door panels and hope they will be from the same batch.

Hi Phil, do you remember how many coats and how much dye did you use on the dash pad?

By the way, you also need to check front to back dimensions on top view to see if the front rails moved back/side.

I am interpreting "side rail" as "floor support/frame". You adjust X-6 location to 6" from your datum line (which is your reference line or distance from your level table to bottom of front frame rail at that location which is also marked with X on top view). Then you adjust X-6 1/2 which is 6 1/2 " from center of rear spring front bolt to your level table. Also, the aft end of rear frame rail has the be 1-13/16" when X- 6 1/2 is set. Looks like when you adjust front frame to X-6, the part of the frame rail after X-6 location is parallel to your level table. Then you check if A which is the distance between your level table to bottom of front cross member (the piece that is welded to tie front frame rails together in the front) , B (which is the distance between your level table and bottom of front frame rail at the cross member support area which is the tube bolted to tie front frame rails together), C etc. It will be easier to align these without the floor, shock tower, and radiator support. I think your A and B dimensions are going to be longer than what the sketch requires and you will have to push A down. With the shock tower missing, when you push A down, it may not pull the crease on the cowl out. But you can push it out from under the cowl after you get A and B right. Hope I was clear, if not ask.

Good original may be hard to find but as far as I know, they make reproduction doors for 69 and 70.

May be they jumped the car and hitting front wheels hard pushed the front frame rails up and caused that damage. The schematic on the post I linked is the best source we have and I would level to/check those dimensions (not the rocker panel) and get them right if it was my car.

I do not have a car with fenders removed at the moment but that crease from forward out board of cowl top towards the middle of the windshield does not look right. In regards to rockers being parallel with floor supports, did you see this thread? May be it is worth leveling the floor supports per that thread and checking the frame measurements instead of leveling per rockers.

Jay, just a reminder; don't forget to disassemble the MC before powder coat as the rubber seals inside might get damaged when they bake it. When I put in a new MC last year, I used one of those spray can paints that is supposed to resist the brake fluid, kind you have to bake after applying. It is silver in color and I disassembled it and baked it in the kitchen owen (while wife was at home). It has some discoloring now where brake fluid touched but it is in decent shape after 1 year.

Kris, have you used vinyl paint on door panels or dash? If so, how does it hold up, does it last or peel in time? I need to get deluxe door panels and dye them nugget gold but worried about it not lasting on a daily driver.

Can you measure the stroke and let us know how many cm or inches? Then we can compare it to RRS and see if there is a difference.