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bartzzimpson

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About bartzzimpson

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    Chris in Brisbane
  • Birthday 12/28/1959

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    Brisbane, Australia

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  1. This should help https://www.mustangdepot.com/graphics/tirefitmentguide69-70.pdf Also, my 15x10s detailed here ...
  2. The gold stripes are my addition. I know they aren't correct for '69 and wasn't sure I'd like them so I did them in stick-on 3M wrap. But now I love them and will commit them to paint one day.
  3. The 35mm deal (aka 1 3/8") represents the gap before the tyre rubs against the leaf spring, as shown in the last photo. And no, you can't live in my garage 'cause that's where I Iive! As for some history on the car, I bought it from a preacher in Florida in 2011 and it spent 10 weeks on a ship coming to Brisbane Australia. She turns 50 next month, having rolled off the NJ production line 4-June-1969.
  4. A bit late, I know, but yes I have just put this setup on my car. Wheel Vintiques 15x10s with 5.5" backspace. According to CJ Pony, I bought their last 2 wheels and they are now out of production. Sumitomo HTR 2000 295/50/R15 tyres. These have a 12mm (0.5 inch) narrower section width (sidewall-to-sidewall) than the same size BF Goodrich TAs and I prefer the tread pattern over the TAs. I am running aftermarket 1" lower leaf springs from Eaton Detroit Springs. The quarter panel lips have been rolled slightly as a precaution but it's not necessary for me (the rear of the car sits high enough and I don't carry back seat passengers over bumpy roads). Internally I have 35mm clearance between the leaf spring and the tyre. And yes, that's how you spell "tyre" ;-) Externally, the sidewall lines up exactly with the wheel arch lip. All said and done, perhaps 6" backspace would have been better and given me more clearance between the rubber and the quarter panel. And you can always reduce 6" backspace to 5.75" by adding a 0.25" spacer (if you dare). Pictures attached...
  5. I'm considering shaving about 1" off my radiator support panel so I can push my radiator further way from the engine and fit dual puller fans with shroud. Anyone done this? Would I modify the radiator saddle mounts or attach the radiator directly to the support panel somehow?
  6. I'm considering shaving about 1" off my radiator support panel so I can push my radiator further way from the engine and fit dual puller fans with shroud. Anyone done this? Would I modify the radiator saddle mounts or attach the radiator directly to the support panel somehow?
  7. I fixed my similar problem with a dual diaphragm master cylinder from Scott Drake. I tried just about everything else first.
  8. Yeah. My buddy bought one of these for his '67 fastback. It's been sitting laid out on his dining room table for over a month now while he musters up the courage to embark upon this project. There is so much work and planning required to install one of these (properly). It has convinced me to go with the OEM harness made by "Alloy Metal Products" who is supposedly the same company that made the original harnesses for Ford. These OEM harnesses just clip straight in. No cutting, stripping, terminating, heat shrinking or wrapping required. No new / upgraded fuse box to install. I'm not resto-modding and I'm after simplicity. It's going to cost about 4 times as much but it comes in sections (dash, engine, headlights, taillights) so you don't have to buy the whole thing. But if you want to add power windows, electric fans, stereo amplifier, alarm etc etc, then the OEM harness is not for you.
  9. Here you go. 351W with AC. My radiator the same width as yours and measures 7" from edge of radiator to centre of lower hose; exactly the same as yours. The left side of the radiator should be LESS THAN HALF AN INCH FROM THE BATTERY TRAY. Have you installed your lower hose the wrong way around? Doh! And your lower brackets look nothing like mine. See 2nd picture below, taken from the driver's side. My brackets definitely make good contact with the bottom tank.
  10. Thanks Mike ! I'd never heard of Green Sales but I will give them a call. Thanks again.
  11. I have bought this as a repro part twice, from 2 different suppliers, separated in time by 2 years and both are crap. The profile is wrong. Upside down when I compare it to my original. I’ve been told there is only the one manufacturer (I think it’s Goodmark, ex-Taiwan) and they have stamped this thing the wrong way. Haven’t managed to find a NOS one yet. Am I alone in my frustration? Has anyone else solved this problem?
  12. I had a similar problem with my 351W with Edelbrock Performer manifold. I used a shaker base with 25mm (1") drop from these guys. http://www.falcongt.com.au/shop/shopexd.asp?id=1596&bc=no They also make one with a 40mm drop. Yes, they are in Australia but so am I ;-) You could also try the guy who runs fordramair.com
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