aslanefe

I guess you are not moving to an other state now.

I believe, Distro-Vac stuff and Vac tree are for AC cars only.

Move to an other state?

Is the cross section of the tank rectangle? If not 3" down from top of a 9" deep tank may not be 2/3 full.

I use ATF in a syringe to lube; thin enough to be wicked in everywhere, will clean and carry away dirt/corrosion when you move joints by hand, the parts move slow and not much load on moving parts. Silicone or grease won't go in between moving parts that can't be separated in the assembly.

I would lube my original before paying money for a repop. Nothing to wear on the linkage, mostly dirt/dust causing the problem and a good lube of all moving parts of the linkage should solve your problem. I do not have wiper mechanism that is out of the car at the moment to take a picture, if you remove yours and post a picture, I can point the joints to lube.

But if the arm is too long, it is not going to 10 ohms when the tank is full, if it s too short, it is going to 10 ohms before the tank is full; same thing for low fuel. The float is going to hit top or bottom of the tank but the rheostat is not going to reach the limits. When you move the float on the bench, you are hitting the limits of the rheostat because the top and bottom of the tank is not stopping the float and preventing the rheostat reaching it's limits. Does that make sense? I am just thinking out loud.

Is it slow because of drag? Did you try lubing the shafts, bushings etc? Dirt/grime between moving parts might be your problem and you can lube them easily if you remove the whole assembly. Before I put the assembly on my last restoration, I lubed everything up and could feel the difference when moving the linkages by hand.

No experience with that specific tank and sender but; you adjusted the height of the sender, does the length of the float arm need adjustment too? It looks to me that if it is universal, the float arm also needs to have the right length for that tank to read correct.

Ouch, even with conversion rate, that is a lot of dough you spent on switches.

Looking good; what brand horn switch did you use (or buggered :) )? And does it work on every spot with ease instead of squizing it with both hands? I have a plan to fix buggered switches, would like to find some buggered switches with soft intact rubber to see if my plan works.

No worries, I posted it so others can do it if they want to. Just sharing an idea on how to save some $ instead of buying the special +3 caster UCA (if you like making your own stuff like me instead of buying it).

I bet he used the two post lift seen on first and second pictures in front of the rotisserie. :)

I use a needle to find the holes, that way the tiny hole won't show up on the headliner if you mis the hole locations.

I made one with two tabs from sheet steel. Cut a piece of thick sheet to fit in 2 opposite slots

Picture of buck tag on my 69 Mustang Grande. Buck tag on my 70 T5 Grande (European export) is located like Casgar's picture, it also has an other tag that has VIN, Koln Germany weight etc on it.

Photoshop?

Your drain hose looks too long, it usually sticks out an inch or so like Danno's picture. If you cut yours, it will be away from headers.

Yes, it is still on it today.

I have a 70 Cougar with corroded fuse box due to cowl leak and I am planning to use a fuse box like the one you linked as a replacement.

Last gas cap I bought for my 70 Grande around 1996 has a card board looking material as a gasket too.

Someone likes green :)

Not much effort needed while parking, can steer with one hand and I am not a body builder.

It feels like the original PS.

Here is screw in stud to replace welded stud.