69Stanger408

Vicfreg, I reviewed your thread, thanks for the additional motivation, your attention to detail is outstanding!

Brand new restomod with no wiring. Starting to wire up car with a new Painless Harness. Besides normal electrical needs (dash, lights, radio, etc) here are my requirements which are out of the norm: Power Master High Torque Starter w/built in solenoid (would like to use internal solenoid vise external), 1 wire 100 amp alternator (would like to use internal regulator vise external), Trunk mounted battery. Best layout / Any suggestions?

SHHHHHH - Don't let my wife know!!

Mine did come with a 3 year warranty.

I went with the 4R70W Blue Chip package from Performance Automatic. Had to make a custom mount and used the Lokar shifter. Connected easily to my 351W (408). Purchased through Jegs, http://www.jegs.com/i/Performance-Automatic/732/PASS45206/10002/-1

Yes, Performance Automatic supplies the controller, which also connects to the TPS output of the EFI.

The converter is included in the Performance Automatic crate package. The flex plate is a performance automatic part #732-PA26467 (purchased through Jegs). I fabricated a custom mount and no modification was necessary for the trans tunnel. I did have to fabricate/machine the shifter brackets that attach to the trans as the clearance was too tight for the LOKAR shifter with the neutral safety switch, had to make the pivot point above same. All in all, pretty simple mods, made templates with poster board and traced to steel plate.

I went with the full set up, Sniper EFI, Dual Sync Distributor, and 69 Mustang fuel tank (comes with vent/roll over valve). I ran steel braided 6AN lines to a firewall mounted bulkhead. Then in-line fuel filter and return to/from carb. I have the Edelbrock performer intake, on top of the 408 crate from TriStar Engines. Ignition is controlled from the EFI and spark flows through MSD 8.5 wires via the MSD Master Blaster. The ECU on the EFI controls the 4R70W crate transmission (Blue Chip Package) from Performance Automatic.

I got a set of ceramic coated JBA's, fit like a glove.

As an FYI, an AUXILIARY trans cooler is meant to augment the radiator, bypassing same is not a good idea. You reference trucks having the aux units...they run through the radiator first, then the cooler. Take it for what it's worth.

Did you bench bleed the MC prior to installation? Without a properly bled MC, regardless of the bleeding at each wheel you will never have sufficient pressure in the system to stop the vehicle as intended.

I am working a restomod project. New TCI Mustang II front suspension with the supplied SBF engine mounts. I bolted my new 408W stroker to a Performance Automatic 4R70W transmission. I fabricated a trans mount and am about ready to weld it together (have cardboard templates now). My question is this, is the output shaft suppose to be centered in the tunnel or between the frame rails. I have a measurement of 16 1/8" left to right centered, to the outside frame rails. Yet when I look down through the stock shifter location (from inside the car) the trans is heavy to the right (pass side). My first attempt was off by 1.5". I had to support the trans, loosen the motor mounts, lift the engine slightly to center it, then tightened everything back. Is this correct?

I'll be in the same boat. I have a 408W with a performance automatic 4r70w blue chip package. Waiting for the flex plate bolts to arrive and then dropping in, hopefully this weekend. I also have the TCI Mustang II front end. Any issues with the install, fit fine? What did you do for the trans mount? Let me know what shifter you go with.

I just purchased the 4R70W Blue Chip Package from Performance Automatic (PA), comes with everything needed to make the swap including the controller. Purchase from Jegs for a better price then PA offers it for.

I went with the Total Cost Involved (TCI) system you mentioned from Hart Rods. I actually replaced my battery panel for a new one when I replaced the radiator support...unsure why as the battery is going in the trunk :( I did the Heidts 4 link in the rear.

I pulled the trigger and ordered the 4R70W automatic transmission (Blue Chip Package) from Jegs (Performance Automatic). Connects to a 351W w/Dart Pro heads. Car is towerless w/TCI Mustang II front suspension to include power rack & pinion. What header options are out there that will keep the pipes high and tight to prevent ground scrap. Already have an email in with FPA, open to suggestions.

If your looking to keep the cost, use your existing pulleys and order the standard rotation pump. Reverse rotation is for serpentine set ups. Now if you want to trick it out, recommend the following, still uses the standard flow pump. https://www.cvfracing.com/289-302-351w-serpentine-conversion-kits-s/162.htm

Took it all brake pedal out, here is what I got. As you can see right off the bat, the brake hangs much lower than the clutch. Was on the understanding the pedals are interchangeable (power/nonpower & man/auto). The brake pedal is the original which is for power w/auto trans. Now going to manual brakes with manual trans. Sounds like I need to mount the brake pedal in the upper hole, closet to the firewall? Assume there is a bushing or something for this?

Converting from an automatic to a manual and power to non-power due to low vacuum (large cam). I got the clutch pedal from Modern Drive Line, came with new bushings and bolt. I know I need to trim the brake pedal but I can't get it to install w/column. It sits on the same bolt as the clutch does correct. The last pic of yours looks like it does not?

What did I do wrong? I cant seem to get the pedal assembly to fit with column or vice versa. Even tried with original column (I have the ididit, both have 2" shaft) no luck. Seems like I have something wrong but the holes to the firewall appear to line up (have the master cylinder connected. Assistance (and pics) would help tremendously, the shop manual doesn't lend much assistance and this crap was taken out 10 years ago.

just temporary bolts, will use different ones for the actual

Thanks, rubber gasket, trace and cut.

Ditto on the info

Lack of patience...picked up some 1/4 aluminum, hour on the band saw & drill press, and complete. Now need to finish with paint.