Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags '351w'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Technical, General Discussion, and Project Progress
    • 1969-70 Technical Forum
    • The Garage
    • Project Progress Forum
  • How to's, Upcoming Events, and Vendor Information
    • Upcoming Events
    • How to's
    • All mustang products and vendors
  • Photochop, Video, and Media
    • Mustang Video and Misc Video
    • Photochop Forum
  • Classifieds
    • Cars for Sale / Wanted
    • Parts for Sale / Wanted
  • Members Only

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Biography


Location


Interests


Occupation

Found 11 results

  1. Hi guys, I'm just at my wits end. Swapped a rebuilt 351W for a tired 302 in my 69 coupe. 351W lovingly rebuilt by yours truly. Installed in car after a brief 20 month project. Was able to run the motor for about 20 minutes at around 2500 rpm to achieve some kind of break-in, so I'm very glad about that. But after that initial 20 to 30 minutes of run-time, something strange has crept in and I can't keep the motor running. The vexing behavior that I'd love to get ideas for: She cranks/starts 100% of the time Motor runs VERY FAST (like 2000 rpm) for about 2 seconds, then dies quickly (no sputter like she's trying to keep going) If I goose the throttle, I can keep it running indefinitely, but it requires constant attention (makes it hard to get other diagnostics) As this car had sat for several years during the project (with California gas), I suspected various fuel-related issues, so I replaced the 50 year old fuel cell, fuel lines, and replaced a suspect fuel filter. I also pulled the carb (for the ump-teenth time), cleaned it up, adjusted the floats, etc. Armed with a fresh fuel-delivery system, I was hopeful, but exact same behavior as before: quick start, runs SUPER FAST, then dies utterly. Since it just quits so suddenly, I suspected a fuel-pressure issue so I checked the sight plug on the carb and gas is definitely coming out easily, so the primary bowl is definitely full. The fact that I can keep it running by opening the throttle is interesting. Seems to indicate a carb/fuel problem more than ignition, wouldn't you say? To me, that indicates the accelerator pump is delivering fuel on demand, but somehow the normal fuel circuits are somehow not doing their part? The Holley carb has only about 20 hours of operation on it, but it did sit for 2 years while I slowly went about the engine swap. I did not dip the carb, just sprayed it out after disassembly. Some random thoughts: * Am reasonably sure the timing is in the correct neighborhood (8B), but not 100% since I can't get it to idle long enough * I meticulously found 0TDC on #1 during the build and my balancer/timing mark is dead on correct * When installing the diz, I made extra sure I have #1 corresponding with 0TDC (not 180 off) * Idle/Mixture screws on carb are in "default" position 1.5 turns out from closed * Not sure if I have a vacuum leak, but I see about a reading of 18 on my vac gauge when I do have it running The distributor is an "OEM" product I found on eBay. I have a very old Petronix I unit in there and a 9V coil from the old days. I do not have a spare dizzy to test. Weird that it starts, runs fast, then dies. Would really appreciate some ideas or similar experiences. I really think I suck at this hobby. Tom
  2. Hey guys, I've spent the past 60 minutes searching online and can't find an explanation. Probably because I don't know how to even phrase my question: What the hell is the center port on this Edelbrock Performer 351 intake manifold? Is it a water port? There is an equivalent port on my cast iron 351W heads, but NOT on my aftermarket aluminum heads Do I need a different intake for these non-standard heads? Is it OK to just cover over the port on the intake with a gasket? Picture #1 is the intake with a blue circle around the port in question. The other picture is my after-market head w/out said port. This is related to my other post where I have managed to create a massive vacuum/coolant leak in my fresh 351W rebuild. The more I look at things, the more confused I get. Thanks very much for walking me through this (patiently). Tom
  3. So I inherited a 1970 MAch 1 from my father in law. He restored in about 15 -18 years ago and I am in the process of changing plugs, wires etc and I wanted to check the timing. It has a 351W that is mildly done, Edelbrock 1411 (750cfm), Edelbrock Performer RPM heads and intake; however I don't know if it is overbored or if its a stock crank. Apparently it was dynoed at about 350Hp if that says anything. Back to the timing - at idle the timing shows exactly at 0deg TDC and when revved up to 3000 RPM it rolls to 30deg (Vacuum line disconnected and blocked off). Based on what I have read thus far shouldn't the timing be set somewhere around 10 deg BTDC, and not 0? When set at 10 BTDC and revved again the balancer slides to 20 deg, so I am assuming that the mechanical advance on the dizzy is 30deg. Does that sound correct? Should I be rolling it back to 10 deg BTDC and try it out? I don't have a vacuum gauge yet (tomorrow), I know there is a way to set timing with vacuum pressure as a guide - any advice here? Sorry, I am a bit of a newbie when it comes to timing etc. but am learning fast. Thanks in advance,
  4. Looking for input on clearance for headers on my Mach I. Engine- 351W (408 stroker), Trans - TKO600, Suspension - TCI Mustang II. Been back and forth on the short & long. Suspension has adjustable coil overs w/2" drop spindles, do not want the dreadful "SCRAP". Suggestions?
  5. Hello Everyone - this question probably comes up often, but I am having a hard time deciding. I have a 69 mach 1 "M" code car that no longer has its original 351w with FMX in it. It currently has a 70 351c with c6 in it (completely stock). I am wondering if I should go back to the 351w or rebuild the 351c. Since it will not have the original engine either way, it probably does not matter. I would like to run around 400 to 450 hp and not looking to keep it completely stock, but not to radical. I read that parts are easier to find for the windsor than for the cleveland, and assume either way I go the cost will be about the same. I will probably get the transmission rebuilt as the c6 is not too bad. Any and all advice is welcome. Also any ideas on good engine re-builders in north Alabama?
  6. Well, here's the car and here's the story: 1969 Mustang Grande, 351w, FMX, ~7 colors After combing through Craigslist for over a year, and saving my pennies for 2 more, I was able to buy this car off a freind of my dad's back in October of 2014. It came from a storage unit where it sat after being given up on for a short while, with another storage unit of random parts, the original 351w, a ligtly built 351w in the car, a rod knock, and another 351w long block ready to swap in. It was driving as is and, after a tune up and fresh fluids, survived another 3-ish months of high school junior hot rodding with that engine knocking away until we swapped it out. The windows rattled loudly, the 1-3/4" exhaust was louder, and it was awesome.
  7. Hi, In the midst of rebuilding my engine, 351w, and have a valve spring issue. My car is in India, and sometime in its past, the engine work was done. As parts were not easily available then, I feel that whosoever did the work replaced the valve springs with something easily available and close to size - the ones in my car are: Springs with dampers - Install height 1.78", Int Dia 1.007", Ext Dia 1.456" Now these don't match up to stock, except install height. Can I just return to stock single springs like Edelbrock 5882? I am running a stock cam, SS valves and roller rockers. Thanks for the help
  8. Just rebuilt my 69 351 Windsor - it is all stock and mated to an FMX tranny. Completed the break in but I am having trouble getting the timing set. With my initial at 6d, vacuum line disconnected and plugged, I have full advance at 31d at 2,800 rpm. With initial at 6d and vacuum line connected I get + 45d advance at 2,800. Idle is ok but terrible as rpm increases. I have tried initial at 11d with the vacuum line plugged and get 36d full advance. Idle is good but sluggish throughout. I am planning on trying to connect to manifold but would like to hear from someone else about this before I try it. I haven't looked inside the distributor yet to see what the limiter is set to. Thank you guys in advance for any insight provided... Oh, I also apologize...I do not own a Mustang...I have a Fairlane 500 convertible. I hope that doesn't affect the responses. P
  9. Hey guys. i have a 69 with a 302 and c4 tranny. i found a guy selling an 89 351w with efi everything included for $450. Seems legit but is there anything i should know? wasn't sure if i can still use my 69 c4 with it.
  10. Hey guys, this past weekend i picked up a really nice 351w short block at the swap meet and plan on replacing my 302 with it. I heard I can use my 302 heads if i drill out the holes. However, i would rather get some with better air flow. Im not sure if it would be better (or cheaper) to just take them to a machine shop and get them ported and stuff or just buy some fancy aftermarket ones. Any advice?...
  11. EDIT..... I HAVE BETTER DETAILS AND MORE INFO ON MY NEXT POST....PLEASE SEE BELOW. I'm putting a '79 351w and the '69 3 speed in my fastback and I know I need a 28oz flywheel but do I need the 164 or 157 tooth and what starter do I need. Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...