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Everything posted by 69Stanger408

  1. Seen lots of questions regarding the brake line to header proximity, but what about muffler proximity? Of course the brake line clamp is under the muffler!! Evidently the shop that installed the exhaust saw no issue. Thoughts??
  2. These are awesome, really cleans up the void space.
  3. Fyi on CVF, I bought and installed a CVF front runner for mock up. A year later, still in the build process I decided to add AC as it's now or never. I contacted CVF about adding the compressor and bracket that matched what I had, and eventually decided to swap out the installed, mocked up system for the top of the line Wrapter. CVF credited my system for the upgrade and took it back, verified it was as I described and shipped me the new one. Don't know of any company that would do that,take back an installed product and give full credit for it, they are awesome to work with.
  4. You can use something like this. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900368?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIn6mmw9ed6AIVzsDACh0i4AlpEAQYDiABEgKBcfD_BwE
  5. Digging the third brake light in the spoiler.
  6. Little more of a cost, but you cannot go wrong with a Holley Sniper EFI unit. EFI brings the benefits of current technology into the classic car era without altering the look of the engine, looks just like a carb.
  7. I went with LED tail lights and love them. Had to swap out the stock flasher for an LED type ($12). I purchased them through CJ Pony Parts (https://www.cjponyparts.com/led-taillight-assembly-1969/p/TLLED14/) but would not recommend using them as their customer service sucks, don't have time to wait 40+ minutes to talk to someone, however had no problems with this item.
  8. I have the Wilwood MC, works great. I made a mounting plate out of aluminum to cover the booster holes and make for a clean look.
  9. Take it out, clean it and lube up the moving parts with wheel bearing grease. Also check the tension on the lock and door rods. I ran into the same issue, once I greased them up and made sure the tension was minimal at rest with the pull rods, they work like a champ.
  10. I used a new relay, and no there is no diode in either one
  11. I got JBAs with a 4R70W trans, Mustang II front suspension with power steering
  12. Corrected connection. It works, no more trunk key required.
  13. Finally got it to work in the following config: 86- 12v 87 - 12v 85 - Amber trigger wire from controller 30 - 12v Output to trunk actuator Thanks to all for the support.
  14. When I connect battery to 86 and 30, orange (trigger) to 85, the relay opens when triggered, but I only get .30v on 87. This is driving me nuts.
  15. If I measure between red power and orange, I get 12v when triggered. If I measure between ground and orange I get .65 when triggered. What's the connection on the relay? Relay pic attached.
  16. Confused on the relay, the explanation above does not receive anything from the CLS controller (the amber wire), or is that what you are calling the switch source?
  17. Ditto on Tristar Engines, excellent company with quality parts and most bang for your buck. You can modify the build as well with other parts as you see fit.
  18. From the research on the internet and Amazon, the lights do not flash and there is no need to hold for 2.5 seconds, you get an immediate readout
  19. Lights do not flash, they do however flash with the lock and unlock.
  20. Electrical question: I want to use my keyless system to open my trunk. I have the "Install Gear Central Locking System (CLS)" uses key FOB remotes to lock/unlock doors which works fine. Additionally, on the key FOB is a trunk release button. On the CLS controller, there is an amber wire which states "Trunk Output -300mA. My trunk release is the Scott Drake unit, that has one power wire on the actual release mechanism (utilizes ground through the attachment points). If I send 12V directly to the red wire on the Drake unit, the release opens. Here is the issue I am running into, I installed a relay in the following configuration: Blade 86 - 12V constant Blade 30 - 12V constant (both wires (86 & 30) are connected together at the end to a 15 Amp fuse, then to battery) Blade 87 - Scott Drake Red Wire Blade 85 - CLS amber wire. My thought is the amber is a negative trigger that would open the relay and energize the circuit to pop the trunk. Well, nothing happens, thoughts? I attached the CLS wiring diagram.CLS Wiring Diagram.pdf
  21. I did your suggestion and placed the edge in, not sealing, though it's close. Will continue to play with it. MTF suggest elongating the underside hole but it's already next to the weather strip track, to move further out would put me in the track.
  22. Just reassembled m 69 March 1, do not recall seeing something that resembles what you have.
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