SweellTrex

So, I noticed a spot under the rear of my car, and checked it out.
 
3 hours later, after draining 10 gallons of gas out of my tank...
 
My fuel line between the tank and my SS fuel lines in the car was a short piece (less than 6") of SAE-30R7 3/8" fuel line that I got from NAPA.  It's been on the car about 6 years, and when I touched it, pretty much cracked in my hand.   Then, looking around, I wiggled my fuel sender wire, and that started leaking.  
 
The bottom line is that the "rubber" parts at the tank end of my fuel system are shot.  So, I had to drain the tank, and I need a new fuel sender and new fuel line.
 
I normally use Ethanol free gas, or over the Winter, use a Sta-Bil product that is supposed to deal with the Ethanol effects.
 
Anyway, my approach has not been effective.
 
Looking for advice/recommendations/tips on replacement strategy to avoid doing this again.   I am headed to the front of the car over the weekend to check my rubber fuel line transition from the frame rail to the fuel pump feed, and then the fuel pump to the carb.  
 
Thanks.....

As my car is in the body shop, and my engine is at home on the stand, I am trying to source a radiator/fan/shroud combination that will fit in the space between the radiator support and my water pump (long) serpentine pulley.
 
I have 351 Windsor based stroker. My radiator core is going to be around 2-1/4 inches thick.  My radiator guy at DeWitt says he can get me 2-12" fans and a shroud that will fit in less than 6" space, using slimline SPAL fans.
 
Any experience, ideas?
 
Any dimensions from waterpump pulley face to radiator support if you have a small block would be appreciated.
 

Used Weiand Xcelerator single plane intake for a square bore 4v carb on a 351c with 2v heads.
 
Good low end for a single plane manifold. Was going to use for EFI but sold car.
 
$100 + shipping

Can any one identify the Mfg. and  part number of this steering wheel.
 
I thought it was a Grant but couldn't find an identical one on their site.
 
Thank you!

Hey all, first post here. Long time fan of mustangs, especially '69-70' mustangs. I have a '68 coupe in the garage, but have always wanted a '69-'70 ever since I helped out in a local shop in high school that restored only rare, and valuable '69 and '70s. (Shelby, Boss, Mach 1 SCJ, etc.)
Long story short...
Stumbled across a 1970 Sportsroof 302 2v, A/T 3 miles from my house. It's a bare bones car, with manual steering, front drum brakes, and no A/C. (All of which can be changed obviously, but currently hurts it's value) It's been sitting in the barn since 1988. It is a 1 owner car, bought new in 1970 from the local ford dealership. Clean title in hand. The owner bought a new Ford Ranger in 1988, backed the mustang in the barn, and never drove it again. The car is rusty unfortunately.  The 18 years it spent on the road were mostly on winter, salty, Indiana roads. lol.
 
It for sure needs:
2- Quarter Panels
2- Fenders
Full Floorpan
Front Bumper
Full Interior
Driver's Door
A couple of areas on the frame will need repaired as well. 
I've included pictures of some of the worst areas. 
 
My biggest question is: Is it worth it, or should I spend the extra 3 or 4k on a cleaner car? Tools, and garage space aren't an issue, as I have mig and tig welders, plasma cutter, cutting torch, grinders, etc. 
 
He is asking $4k. I was thinking it would be more enticing if it was closer to the $2500 range. I've got a gut feeling that this is probably nothing more than a parts car in it's current condition.
 
Thoughts?? 
 






 

What are the best subframe connectors that don't hang down and show for a 69 Mustang Fastback?

I'm trying to install the lower steering column trim on my '70, but I can't figure out what these metal clips attach to, there doesn't seem to be anything in the area to clip it to. I have a repo instrument bezel, wondering if there's something missing.
Thanks,
Matt

Today I went to do the switch, but he Borgenson fit was extremely tight. The round part of the gear box rested on top of the frame which caused the alignment holes to off. Eventually I was able to catch a thread on each hole, but had to rotate the tightening of the bolts. After a while the bottom bolt went flush on the frame but the top 2 bolts were out about an 1/8", I had to go back and fourth, tightening the bolts with effort one at a time until the whole unit was flush against the frame.
 
I then saw that the Borgenson steering shaft was off center from my Steering column. There is a little play on my column so I pushed it hard to one side trying to line it up with the Borgenson but it did not center.
 
I think if I loosen the steering column from the firewall that I might be able to get the column to move a little more. (I think that might work, but not sure).
 
When I took the unit back off I can see a cut mark on the frame from the unit being forced on.
 
IMO I actually think the casting material on the Borgenson is built up too much. You can see evidence of that in the pictures.
I'd like to grind it off but the warrentee will be void.
 
I did contact Borgenson and sent some pics. The Rep said it should be an easy bolt in. I'll find out tomorrow.
 
What do you think????

Hey RCE Was wondering when I would see ya on here again LOL...Good to know you got that motor up and going.
to answer your 4R70W question...Yes all you really need is the Bauman controller and a 4R70W that is in good working order, along with a flexplate that is the correct balance for your motor.
There are a few Caveats tho... If I recall the bauman controller requires that the transmission have High Impedance Solenoids in the pan, this can be checked by popping off the pan and looking or getting a trans from a year model known to have the high impedance solenoids... but they can be had for cheap from the Ford Dealer and are easy to swap out. 
So heres the list of what ya really need.
 
1. Transmission with converter
2. Bauman Controller with their complete harness
3. Correct Flex-Plate
4. Transmission Cross Member to fit 4R70W...can be modified stock unit or one from Joe Persad
5. Possibly need a new driveshaft or may need your shortened or the Yolk changed to a 4R70w Big yolk depensing on the year 4R70 you get. 
 
That pretty much covers it bud...Sounds like a lot but it isn't.
I recently picked up a sweet deal off of my little mustang sites on facebook, one guy had a complete Bauman controller with harness set up that I got for $400.00 and it was their latest controller, then saw another guy whose mom ran her car hot and burnt the motor up so she gave him the car and he was parting it, and she had just had the transmission replaced by a reputable shop in Baton Rouge, when it showed up at my house and we pulled it out of the back of his truck you could tell it was fresh and even came with a brand spanking new converter and flexplate LMAO.. Paid $150.00 for that... So right now I got $550.00 in the setup Im going to put into my 66... Just keep your eyes open the stuff pops up all the time....
You can use a 4R70 that comes from behind a V6 also btw, don't have to be a V8 donor, long as the bell housing is the same it will work, but you just have to remember they are not all created equal and some are better than others

Easy boy's, there's plenty to go around :)

Any one opted to paint there Hood blackout in gloss instead of the original Matt style. My car is going into the booth on Friday and I'm still undecided what way to go.

I'm seriously looking at doing the headliner for the coupe. I found a very nice and depenable guy that has been making molds for me. So, what I really need to know is how much demand is there for it  ? I have at least 40 other new products I could spend my money on.

Hi.  New member here.   A fellow forum member told me about this site, so I will be posting my project details here over the next months (years).
 
My car is a "F" code 1970 convertible, originally a auto/AC car with power top.   2 years ago, I obtained the car from a storage building in Las Vegas, from a friend who had an older family member who had give up on the project.  
 
I loaded the car into a POD, and transported it back home to North Carolina.   Over the past 2 years, I have been sorting and refinishing parts, and this week, had my friend at LatoRacing (forum member) come out and get the car to sort out the sheet metal work that needs to be done.
 
I will post some pics of the find, the transport, and progress since I obtained the car, and once caught up with that, will have LatoRacing post pictures of the progress.
 
Current plan is to build a Mach I style convertible, with a 393 stroker, C-6, 4 link rear, and rack and pinion/coil over front end.   Engine, trans, and interior are done and ready to be installed.
 
Look forward to documenting my project.
 
Regards,
 
Vic
 
 

I decided to ditch the 302 build and finally use the 1969 351w block I have been saving for many years. 
I've read probe makes a good 408w kit. 
Anyone know who or where I can call to discuss what kit to buy?
 
How about the heads, I was going to use some trick flow 11r 190 heads. Would those still be good or should I get the afr 205 heads? Or smaller?
 
I'm worried I'll have piston to valve clearance issues. That's why I want to talk to the stroker kit vendor to make sure I'm good and have a 91 octane friendly compression :)
Thanks guys

Hey all -- I have some left over / unused parts from my resto. No longer needed, starting another project, cleaning house.
 
Got some dash panel pieces & gauge assembly parts. Not sure what to ask on these? Open to offers / suggestions, would prefer dash panels & gauges go as a lot. Pics:
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
I also have some Global West tubular subframe connectors that I bought new but never installed- SOLD
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
And lastly, here is a set of A-pillar trim for a fastback. These are reproduction pieces that never got used because I found a good set of originals. $50 obo + SH.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
Just PM me here if needed. Thanks for looking.

looking for a 69 351W air cleaner base.

I rolled my new project out of the storage lot, and took it home to start bringing it back to life. I bought the car back in January of this year, and have been gathering parts in order to make it a reality instead of an idea.


This is a true Graber Special, Marti report and all, also know as a "poor mans" Boss 302. This one had a 302 2v, auto, manual drum, and power steering. I told my Wife when I bought it, that I purchaced a rolling roof with a title. She had not seen it since its purchace and was questioning my sanity after rolling it off the trailer. I have started with worse, and at least this project is fairly well "rust free" (ha-ha). It will stay Grabber Green, but the build will be a G-Machine theme. I am waiting on Street and Track to come out with their new rear suspension later this year, to see what they come up with. 

I am going to try out Dynacorn sheet metal on this build, and see if it fits any better than some of the other ti-chen stampings offered by other vendors. The full quarters look good out of the box, hope they don't require a bunch of fitting (cutting in half, beating, re building,ect...). Been there, done that. I did go ahead and get the Goodmark mini tubed inner fenders to use, I could have widened some regular ones, which would have been cheeper in the long run.

I would like to be able to build these cars on a regular basis, so this one is going to be sort of an extream advertisment. I am not going to jump into a business venture quite yet, but ease into it, if it works. Playing with rusty old cars has been part of my life, and I enjoy most every aspect of it. Well see where it goes.
The only part of the build I have not decided on is to build it as a 1970, or 69ish Boss 302? I have always wanted a G coded 69, and could make one, just not so sure yet. Any way, here are a couple of pics as I dig into what is left of this body, and this is the way I bought it, less work for me? My Wife is still wondering...
 
 

Mike, that is wayyyyyy cool.  Those blue isolators are a great idea, or else you will get a lot of resonance in the car.....

I had someone over to install a new windshield in my convertible today, when he got it off the truck it was scratched, so it was a no go. They were going to charge me $300 installed. Now I'm thinking about just doing it myself. I already took the old one out, stripped the frame to bare metal and painted it with catalyzed paint. I have the dash out too. How tough of a job is it? CJ's has my windshield on sale for $150.
 
Thanks,
Matt

I am looking for a passenger 69 coupe extension with holes for the deluxe molding. Must have no cracks in it.

Hey all,
 
My engine has started making some dreaded knocking noises which I am fairly sure has to do with worn bearings(Crank/Connecting Rod). I have previously taken the oil pan off and know there is more play than there should be in some of the connecting rod bearings. We purchased another car just in time for this one start to break down so I can actually work on the mustang and not worry about how I'll get anywhere thankfully. 
 
I am looking at doing a rebuild of my bone stock 302 small block. I have 2.5" exhaust with a C4 behind the engine. currently it has a 2bbl intake and carb, but will probably upgrade that. The car is mostly just for crusing and I am slowly working on things.
It was "rebuilt" when I bought it, though clearly not very well. when I bought the thing I didn't know enough to realize how bad it was done. 
While I am rebuilding the engine I would like to possibly add a little more budget performance. I am looking to stay in the $900 range for the rebuild not including any machine work that may need to be done due to the failures in the engine. 
Specifically, what are your thoughts on boring it out?
I have just started looking into rebuild kits and different components so any advice/suggestions are appreciated! 
 
Thank you!

Well,
 
I have been putting more parts on the car that will be there permanently (as opposed to temporary for test fitment) and it feels pretty good.
 
Recently I have had some minor questions and posted a ton of threads but I think it would be easier to just start this thread and consolidate it all.
 
Soooooo
 
I bought the ACC carpet and It is pretty much a cut to fit. I wish I took it out of the box like a month ago, the back seat carpet is arguably harder to properly install than the seat covers were.
 
I installed the front seat TMI covers and ran out of hog rings for the rear so I am on hold.
 
In the mean time, I have been tying up odds and ends on the car.
 
I started on the AAW harness swap now that most parts are in place. I am impressed by the quality of the harness and it is nice that everything is labelled.

I ordered the Fatmat & will do an update when it arrives.  Today I ran the hard brake line to the l/s front soft brake line & relocated the bracket.
 

Hello all after being here for over 7 years & seeing other builds I figured it is time for me to start one on my 69 Coupe. I aquired the 69 Coupe back in 2001, & when I aquired the car it was being used as a parts car stripped of almost anything useable. It was missing both doors, the interior except for the dash, the engine & the trans were long gone, & was missing one fender. After 4 moves & one failed business venture I am back working on the 69 Coupe. The Coupe was originally equipped with a 302, auto, 8" 2.79 rear, standard black interior, painted meadowlark yellow, & built in Metuchen, NJ on Nov 26th, 1968. My plans for the car are to make it a restomod, 331 stroker, 5 spd trans, 9" rear with 3.70 gears, painted green with black GT side stripes & a 1970 Mach-1 hood stripe with the Mach-1 hood scoop, front & rear spoilers. Black standard interior with 1970 Mustang high back buckets, center console & Mach-1 r/s dash panel with clock. As far as wheels & tires the wheels I had on my first Mustang were Ansen sprint slotted wheels & I want those or the 68/69 GT wheels with BFG T/A radials 235/60-15's. The wiring will be completely redone using an American auto wire kit for the 69 Mustang. I will get some pics put on soon.
Mike.

Selling My Raven Black 70 Mach I needs a new home. Car is located in Raleigh NC
Older complete nut and bolt restoration I finished in 2004 that included Paint, interior, suspension, drivetrain, brakes
Original Shaker Hood car with original rear spoiler and rear sport deck fold down.
Car is not a concourse or matching numbers drivetrain. An H code car, triple black from the factory.
Professionally built D9 block 351w stroker, AFR heads, CC Hydraulic roller
Performance Automatic C4
9" 3.70 posi with Shelby underides, Roller Spring perches,  Eccentric Eliminators, Street or Track Adjustable Strut Rods
Disc Brakes with stainless caliper pistons, Drilled and slotted rotors, Braided stainless steel lines.
Marti Report, Loius Eminger invoice, FOMOCO letter, buck tag, Clear title
Must go, kids braces, 4 wisdom teeth and new project cause the bitter sweet sale.
Will need tires
The car is not a trailer queen and priced more than correctly so serious buyers only please.
$27,500