quoriSer

Going to put the engine in with the super comps on , looks tight but i think i can get it in.
If anyone has done this please let me know.
No steering gear on and no brake booster on. Going to jack up the rear pretty high.
Thanks.


 
 

Hey Guys and Gals, has anyone on this forum heard of Cryogenics? I was talking to a machine shop that mentioned they do this for the engines and the tranny shop they use does this treatment for the gears and mainshafts in the trannys they rebuild. This Cryogenic treatment supposedly changes the molecular striucture of the metal by changing Austenite into Martensite by cold tempering the crankshaft or gears or mainshafts for instance which results in 3 things. 1-strengthens the metal, relieves residual stress in the metal and increases resistance to wear. Has anybody tried this or has any experience with this process.It's approximately $350 for a disassembled trans including case or $500 for a disassembled engine including the block. Just wondering if it works? Or if the results are worth it?

Is anyone using a 14" lecarra wheel? If so, does it block your view of the gauges?
 
Thanks,
 
Matt

Hello everyone! I can't believe I didn't find this forum until now, I notice a few of the members here from my instagram account (@grabherblue69) !
Anyways, it's a little late to post too many picture from the past build - but I'll give you a quick rundown of the history of this car and where it's at now before I start giving incremental updates.
 
This was my father's first car when he was in high school in the late 70's - just a normal fastback with a 351W in it. It was wrecked in the front end and he paid $200 cash for it... Him and his two brothers as well as their father all had fastback mustangs! Later, their father (my grandpa) built a local family shop and the father and the 3 sons have ran it since, however my grandpa is getting pretty old and doesn't do any of the work there anymore. (It's called Ray's Garage.)
 
Back to the car - we care nothing about originality in our family. Dad went through about 6 motors in this car in high school, either blowing them up or wanting more. After the 351, all of them were big block FE motors. Additionally, they bought and sold mustangs all the time and Dad always swapped the parts he liked off of them before they were sold (sorry all of you original car owners out there who are confused as to why the rear sway bar is missing or the wood grain interior!). This thing has all the "'cool stuff" - fold down rear seat, Mach 1 Woodgrain Deluxe Interior, a nice console, a rear sway bar off of a Boss 302, front discs, and so much more. It sat outside for about 10 years before he handed it over to me to start working on, completely rusted out with a 390 that barely ran and tons of problems.
 
The plan: Do whatever you want to it that you like and make it yours.
 
As of now here is a list of what has been done to it:
 
-Lots of new metal - hood, doors, tailgate, taillight panel, and some other minor metal work. 
- Bodywork and paint - Grabber Blue!!! (1970 Color, but like I said, screw originality for this build.) Dad was a bodyman for about 10 years before becoming a full time mechanic - he did the spraying and I did all the bodywork myself. Not perfect at all, simply painted it to be a driver's car. 
- Stereo somewhat in progress - Small sub in the panel that goes to the trunk and new JBL speakers in the front/ rear. Also a kenwood single din headunit up front that doesn't jump out at all. 
- All new interior
                      - Recovered the front deluxe seats but instead of a red mach one stripe I got it done in blue.
                      - 80mil sound deadening throughout the whole floor plus new mass-backed carpet. 
                      - New-ish deluxe woodgrain door panels, much nicer than the ones it had before.
                      - Refinished the console and put in a new dash pad
                      - Lots of other minor details
- Somewhat mild 428 build
                      - Block: Granpda said "You can have whatever that is over there in the corner" - Turns out to be a 428 with a CJ crankshaft and pretty 390GT heads
                      - Bored .40 over, New forged pistons (11ish to 1 compression ratio with the 390gt heads, will be about 10.5:1 or less with Edelbrock heads that I want sometime in the future)
                      - Edelbrock Cam, .572 Intake and Exhaust - Soon to put in new valve springs to go alone with that
                      - Some Edelbrock aluminum intake
                      - Tons of other extras that aren't important enough to note here - plans for small nitrous shot one day.
                    
- "Boss 428" stripes because me and my father both LOVE the Boss 302 reflective stripes for '69, however I felt like it was a shame to have "Boss 302" on the side and then a 428 in it so I got a custom set made up.
- Again, tons of other things that aren't worth noting now. Any questions just ask!
 
Currently has been running and driving for a while now, just not where it needs to be. Lots of work left and will always be an ongoing build. It has an FMX auto in it as well! 

Well i thought i would post this for those looking into the swap. This spring i did the swap in my 69 convertible w/ 351w and Dougs Try-y (D669Y) headers. Your only option the get the new box in (and the old one for that matter) was to either remove the headers or the power brake booster/master cylinder. then in goes the new unit. the pump sits about 1" away from the headers, but no rubbing issues.

I tried to use my stock ford pump but it wasn't strong enough and the hoses that Borgeson uses would run right into the exhaust. So i bout the new pump from them. once the hoses are on they sit way too close to the headers. I didn't use any thread sealer on the hose ends, just tightened and went.

So after 4K+ miles on it ive came to the conclusion that im not a fan. While it handles nicely, there was more play in the steering wheel than what i thought there should be. But it's a very responsive unit. Down side is, as time goes on the more this thing leaks. The hoses going into the box always leak no matter how much i tighten them down. Now there's a leak from the top plate on the box and possibly somewhere down below. I'm needing to put my car on a lift to let it run to see where exactly it's leaking from. But due to its location, it's pretty difficult to do without burning off your skin. 

Hus65 posted a while back his hose routing procedure which is pretty nice. We were talking about it and he stated his is leaking from below after only 50 miles. There are a lot of others on corvette forums who seem to have leaking issues too. I think with the hoses and box being as close to the headers as they are, they are boiling the fluid and eating away at seals. Hus65 ran his setup into a cooler and the hoses away from the hot parts so i think he would have better long term success compared to myself and others.

WTB 69-70 Mustang L/H Sport Bullet Mirror parts ,I have a good housing but am looking for remote cable,screws ,or complete mirror with damaged housing that could be stripped for parts.Has to have control Knob holder at 90 degrees to cables.

Members are concerned about the Russian invasion and getting unsecured password notices here.

im sure it would, but the cost seems high. being i have to make my own lines anyway, i could probably figure out a late model unit IF it is smaller.

Passenger side was next..
 

 

 

 
Rocker getting welded in..
 

 

 
New passenger side metal..
 

 

 

 

Agreed!! Thank you!

Hello, new to joining the forum.  Have followed a lot of the other builds here, which are awesome, and wanted to share where we are in ours.  My dad and I acquired the car in late 2014.  It came with an extremely mild 351C and a C6 tranny.  He tinkered on it here and there and added a few parts but always wanted a little more.. who doesn't.. So after I brought home a 2016 mustang GT he was hooked on the coyote 5.0  We had originally planned strictly a front end conversion and engine/tranny swap but this has turned into a full blown build.  Many of the parts came from Mustangs to Fear, and they have been really really nice to work with.  All of the work is being completed by GT Graphics and Customs out of Franklin, NC.  Both Gary and Teresa over at GT Graphics and Customs are first class individuals.  We couldn't be more pleased with them.
 
I won't bore you with a parts list so here's some pictures of where we are at!
 
Here's the current stable of cars:
 

 
The tear down...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
Some problem areas...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Rough Fiberglass out of the mold
 

 

 

 
We will put a nice polished mesh set back about an inch into the opening. The hood will be fully functional.

Does anyone know if this will work for a '69 as well? I've been looking for a locking latch/remote release option that doesn't require much fabrication. Is the Bronco the only vehicle that had this?

Do the shaker and trim ring get painted the same as the hood.

Hello all, I wanted to re-introduce myself now that I'm back with a new project. Last month I picked up a 1970 Mach 1 that was a little rough, but looked like it had an interesting history. It's a Grabber Orange 'DSO 89' car, loaded with options including shaker hood, tach, tilt, am/fm, deluxe seat belts, fold-down, AC, PS, PDB, intermittent wipers, convenience group, bumper guards, and a few others. The car was ordered new by a Ford executive, and delivered to Ford Headquarters. The car itself has been sitting untouched for 20 years waiting for a new owner to rescue it. The car's pretty straight, but still needs a lot of work and parts. I'm going for an 'as-delivered' look, but will stop short of concourse, and I may even put a T5 in there since I'm partial to manual shift cars. Thanks for reading my long post, I'll try and keep the thread updated as I go.
 
Here's some photos of the car:

I hope this is the right forum (I thought Garage might be OK as well) to find out about these three engines and their positives and negatives.
 
I get them confused all the time, and Ford actually had all three available about the same time frame (68-70), which doesn't make a whole lot of sense if an auto manufacturer is trying to save money.  I do know that:
427 is 4.23x3.78 (bore x stroke), FE (not including SOHC version)
428 is 4.13 x 3.98, also an FE
429 is 4.36 x 3.59, 385 block design (non-Boss variants)
 
My question(s) is: what advantages/disadvantages from the end-user's point of view of each of these three beasts?  Does one make more power at high RPM?  Does one have significantly more torque?  Which one has better street or strip manners?  What are the good design aspects and bad design issues that someone might be concerned about?  What about aftermarket support?  Are they interchangeable from a motor mount/tranny attachments?  I take it heads from the 427/428 are not interchangeable?
 
Tell me...
 
 
 
 
And if you want me to get really excited, any pictures of a SOHC 427 will do wonders!  *G*

I'm changing my 1969 manual brakes to a 1970 Power Disc. Does someone have a picture showing where it is installed.
I've tried searching on the web but the shock tower brace is always in the way.
Thank you

All,
 
As I am coming to the end of the restoration period, and I began to drive the car after 20+ years, I had an experience finding a fuel leak near the carb that kinda freaked me out.  Nothing major, but I had not sufficiently tightened the hose to the fuel filter, and I had gasoline pooling on the intake.
 
It made me realize how easy it would be for all of my work to go up in smoke.  I was lucky the fuel sitting there didn't get hot enough to ignite.  It made me realize, if a fire had happened on a casual drive, I didn't have a plan for how to handle it.  Had that fuel caught, there was very little I could do.  Maybe remove my shirt & hope to smother it? That's hardly a plan.
 
Long story short, I decided I wanted to have a fire extinguisher at the ready.  I did a limited amount of research and decided I wanted it near me, while in the car (available in a crash if required).  Lots of folks attach right in front of the drivers seat.  I decided to try this "bracketeer" mount, and see if I could make it work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015G3QXMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
That thing won't work.  It's very well made, and I can imagine pretty versatile, but not for our cars.  It's also obnoxiously expensive.  Despite it being very made well, $60 is silly for no more tech than is there.  I sent it back for a refund, and decided I would make something on my own. 
 
I bought a steel 2.5in x 1.5in multi-purpose angle piece with many pre-existing holes.  I also got a 1.5in wide x 1/8in thick aluminum bar stock.  Then I got stainless screws/washers/nuts to bolt it together.
 
I cut the angle to the length from outside of one seat frame to the outside of the other.  I notched the 90 degree angle off each end so that the widest side of the angle could be bolted down underneath the seat track (between the seat and the track).  I removed the bolts holding the front of the tracks to the seat, slid the member between the track and seat and passed the track bolts thru the track, then thru the ends of the angle using existing holes, then into the seat, and tightened it down.  this holds the angle very securely, and the steel is thin enough that it doesn't raise the seat noticeably (less than 1/16th) I let the 90deg side of the angle project upwards inside the seat (away from the floor)- there was plenty of volume inside the seat to accommodate it.
 
I then cut two ~7.5in long pieces of the alum bar-stock, bent them in my vise to about 70deg at about 6in from the end and located them appropriately side to side to hold the extinguisher in the correct location.  the bent aluminum is mounted to turn down towards the floor, and the length is just enough so that the bent ends are forward and just clear the raised floor when the seat is moved all the way back. After this, I just mounted the extinguisher mount to it, and put the seat in.
 
I didn't get any pics during the buildup, which I regret, but it is actually a really simple install.  Getting the measurements right and the positioning was the harder part.
 
Attached are some pics of how it looks installed.  Mounting it this way, the extinguisher travels with the seat as the seat is moved fore and aft.  The mount is sufficiently solid, and amazingly, while visually it seems kind of obtrusive and possibly in the way, it really is very much out of the way.  One flip of mount hasp and it is loose - but doesn't fall - and can be retrieved easily with one hand.  it doesn't make getting in or out the car any different at all.
 
I'm actually really happy with the installation, and just wanted to pass it along, in case anyone else wanted to try it.
 
I spent ~$30 on materials and bolts, but I had enough left to make another mount if I wanted, and I bought stainless fasteners.
 
Sorry for all the words above, pictures would have helped so much.  Trying to describe everything using only words just takes a lot more.  Next time I get the seat out, I'll plan to get some good pics and add them.
 

 

 

 
Think about getting your own fire-extinguisher.  It makes a lot of sense - anything can happen.  Hope someone can use this information.
 
Jay

This morning was the first since I don't know when, when there was not a single spam post.  OMG! 

Hi
 
I'm very joyful to be a part of this community. I'm a natural hardcore weight lifter and it looks like can not lift larger weights, , .
Any good thought if there's a nutritional supplement which could make me more powerful?
I read on some websites , that there are nutritional supplements which could help me .
What can I do?

I'm in search of a ducktail spoiler for my 70 coupe. I heard of a guy using a 69 or 70 camaro spoiler on a mustang. Does anyone know if this works and how hard it would be to do? If you have pics of it I would appreciate it!!!

Car is HOME, sure is bright in the sun.



The camera makes the car look orange.now the fun begins, i am excited

I'm not convinced that units like the Global West and Tinman are anything more than a long torsion bar. I'm sure they add some rigidity but I'm not sure if its really noticeable. How could it even be proven? Just connecting the rear subframe to the front subframe with a long flexible bar may not do very much.
What exactly are they supposed to do? Do they stiffen the chassis when cornering and make it more predictable, and maybe help prevent the chassis from flexing when reving the engine? Given the structure, nothing would prevent all flex.
 
Maybe one of our mechanical engineers could weigh in on this and straighten us out?? Maybe you have some first hand knowledge that it really does something that is tangible.

Hello everyone,
So many choices for a 302 engine fuel pump.
 
I'd like suggestions for a good daily fuel pump that has no issues in regards to fuel pressure.
I drive a 69 convt 302
 
All the best from sunny Tuscany,
Paul

Can anyone tell me the distance from the bottom of the trunk lid to the bottom of the mustang letters.
Have a new trunk lid and no holes for the letters.
Bought the stick on ones and just need the measurement.
Thanks.
Walt.