lalojamesliz

Be careful with generic widths, like 295 and 275.  The actual tire width varies by manufacturer so take the width with a grain of salt. One manufacturer's 295 can be the same width as another's 315.  Member Grabber70mach had a handy little comparison a few years back, but for some reason I can't find it.
 
Below is a link to my combination, 17x10.5 with 315/35 and even after using a BFH in the front inside corners of the wheelwell and rolling the quarter lips it rubs during a turn or pothole. I will be tweaking the inner wheelhouse sheetmetal to add reliefs to alleviate the rubbing. If you want bolt-on with no work and no rubbing, don't go this wide.
 
 

I agree, there are some real experts on this site, and it has a fair amount of activity.

no, they don't . they ask $282.47 cents but never sell them . i know the owner.

leprosy is rare too but not many people looking for that either.

Depends on the condition of the steering box and how many miles it has on it . The entire assembly as is, is worth at least $75.00 to the right person or you can try to retail it for $150.00

they are NOT sought after an anyone that thinks they are is smokin crack . yes, there may be one or two people somewhere on the planet that might want it and whom might want to pay around $100.00 for it but finding them is like finding a needle in a haystack etc . if you want to sell it, put it on ebay in a fixed price ad for $100.00 ot offer . you can run it until it sells for FREE.
 

Finding really cherry ones can be tough sometimes andnyeas they are desirable and people do what them.
 
but, remember there is a difference between rare, desirable, and valuable.
the key thing that keeps them from being valuable is that they were put on a lot of different cars based on what engine was in them. And there are only certain people that want them.
do not throw it away unless you want to make all the rest of them a little more rare. You might as well sell it to someone that wants it or save it to use on a future project
If you clean it up and paint it you can raise the value a little
 
bob

i've made my own.  it's not something i like doing.  i don't believe you will save cash making something already available (assuming what's available is what meets your requirements and don't need rework).  
the tube bender/flaring tools will likely be different for the brakes on the rear axle as compared to the fuel lines.  so you'll probably need tools for each.

Unless it's a skill you want to learn cause you're gonna be doing it often in the future.  And unless you feel like buying the tools cause you're gonna be doing it often in the future, my vote (and what I did when I rebuilt my brakes) is to buy them.  It is a very "doable" task and the tools and lines are not particularly expensive.  Just worked out that it was easier to buy for me.

Have done it both ways myself.  Do it yourself ?  Be prepared to do each line more than once maybe thrice.  Buy pre-bent ?  Be prepared to bend to fit.  Brian

I make my own because I had to make the for the race cars. For me it was never that big of a deal.
if you can't see in your head what direction the next bend it supposed to be then you will fight it all the way.
 
i also have several bending tools of different radiusus which also helps in creating the bends you need to look right.
 
if you are not good at it and if you can buy what you need then do so
 
bob

I have a AM/FM/ w/dash speaker.  The only time I turn it on or can hear it is at a stop light.  So if you can hear a radio you've got more work to do on your engine.  Brian

There are a huuuge number of ways to miss-wire a car. Since many people have problems understanding the ignition system (which includes the starter), I drew a schematic and wire diagram, and then explained how it works. Maybe this will give you some insight as to what may be wrong. Since you don't have a stock system, it is difficult to guess how it should be wired. I'm guessing it is somewhere in the top part of the schematic relating to the solenoid and starter.
It might help to post the starter instructions.
If you remove the wire going to S on the solenoid does the starter still spin? If you reverse the wires on S and I and the key is in the run position, it will apply 5.7 volts to the solenoid coil, and it "could" pull-in.
Mustang Ignition2.pdf

It seems a bit odd to me that Chris Straub didn't suggest a specific carb he would prefer.
There is 23 vac secondary carbs in that cfm range in the link below.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/carburetors/universal/yes?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=carburetor&sw=Carburetors&N=4294921892%2B4294951518%2B4294512689%2B4294921888%2B4294881228
 
A vac secondary carb is not a "must" for an auto trans.
You will need to adjust/tune the secondaries for optimum perf on a vac secondary carb.
 
 

yes, nodular or war case with daytona pinion.
as i mentioned on your other thread, put a locker in it if you are going to drag race it much.
the tko 600 is a truck style trans and shifts like crap if you try to shift it quickly . you really better get the carbon lined blockers and have the shift detent mod done if you buy one . liberty trans and a couple others can do that for you.
us gear and italian made motive gears are the best . timken bearings are the only bearings to use.
there are some very intelligent people on the vintage mustang site and there are some very unintelligent ones . be careful who you listen to over there . supershifter is one of the smartest people there.
the more traction you have the better your gears and axles need to be.
you also stated on your other thread that your engine would have 600 hp and that you might also add nitrous to it . now you say it only has 550 hp . if you get the cam from chris straub and you do everything he tells you, it will likely have within 10 hp of what he says it will on the type of dyno he says it will make it on which is one of the reasons i suggested you call him and have him do your cam.
you can also call currie enterprises
 
 
 

Imho 31 splines should be enough with street tires. I don't know the hp limit of the traction lok, but you're probably well over it.
I'm in the process of building an N case, Daytona pinion support, traction lok, 28 splines and 3.50 gears for an everyday set up, and 28 spline open with 2.50 gears for long trips. If I happen to twist or break an axle before my tires spin, I've got 31 spline axles and traction lok for an upgrade.

I used Quick Performance in Iowa. They sold me a 9" Nodular center section with Daytona Pinion, and also supplied me with 31 spline axles.   I am using a 3.25 traction lock.   I have a built 393 stroker, and the 9" rear should handle that easily.    Go with one center section, run a 3.50 and you will be fine.  

this is similar to the griffen but not identical but it is a very good rad and "should" work...unless it is bore .040 over and/or you use a power adder or you have ac etc. it does not have a trans cooler.
you can also call ron davis and matsons and spikes radiators to see what they have
 http://classicfordradiator.com/68-70FordMustangCougarAluminuBigBlockradiator24wideCopperRadiator-3-1-2.aspx
http://www.spikeradiators.com/
http://www.mattsonscustomradiator.com/
http://www.rondavisradiators.com/custom.htm
 
 

that won't cool 70 hp . the tubes need to be 1/2" ones and 3/8" on center . i think think those tubes are only 3/8" ones and farther apart than 3/8" but you would need to call . you also need a cross flow.
 
it seems like you bought a bunch of high end parts to build your engine with little regard to cost and now you want to get away with the cheapest radiator you can which is illogical if you care about protecting your engine.
 
 
 

better get a 4 row if you get a champion unless they have 2 rows of 1" to 1 1/8" tubes.
 

nope, that pile only has 1 row of tubes.

i would 2618 material pistons if you plan to use nitrous.
 
 

Yes Chris straub. 
I dropped of the engine friday and haven't spoken to the shop (Jim grubbs motorsports)  about that. I would guess 30 over
Chris recommend 10-1 since I only have 91 octane available. 
Both Chris and Jim grubbs motorsports said 600 shouldn't be a problem with everything that I have ( I'm buying the custom cam, afr 205 heads, 408w kit, 850 carb or efi) i told them carb
I live in a desert almost. The coldest it gets here is low 30's to high 20's and i wont be driving this then
I was talking to a guy on another forum and he recommended a Holley self learning sniper efi .....
I've been looking into it and it can control timing, trigger fans, and control the ignition coil like a msd box IIRC
It needs specific distributors to control the timing but if it can do these things up just return my digital 6al and buu the Holley sniper kit.
I have a custom 300a alternator for one of my cars (car audio) that I was thinking of just having re-cased for my mustang. Just a idea but if I don't do that I'll just get a decent output alt for sure. Custom or something else
Thanks for the advice on the radiator and pump :)

The rear was 18X10 with 6.38 Backspacing, no spacers.  The Drag radial was a 305/35.  I am running a 285/35, should have gone 40 series as the 35 is a bit short on a 285.  
The front I am running a 17X8, with 5.72 back spacing and 245/25 tire.  I am running a 1 inch spacer up front.    These are wheels that fit the 94-04 mustang, so pretty cheap and available.
 
Hope that helps
 
Scott 

Bit old school with 15" rims but here's a 69 with 295s on the rear: