bigmal

No Mal, not possible w/o a bfh. The 6 mounting bolt holes only align one way, so folks like us can't screw that up.

Thanks for all your hard work Ben. It's a thankless job but we all appreciate you keeping this site alive.

Thanks for posting the pics. That's a really nice mod.

If you look at the last picture you can see we move the anchor forward 6 inches.

Disappointing but this is too great a site to let this slow us down. Keep posting guys. This is the only thing that gets me through my working day. Instead of working.

So far 4 for 4 in car show wins
:)

Hi all,
Some restoration pics.
what I had done:
Magnaflow x pipe 2.5” exhaust
FPT LT headers
Pertronix distributor
Edelbrock RPM air gap manifold
Edelbrock 650 AVS2 carb
Aluminum radiator
Wilwood master cylinder
Ridetech swaybar and composite leaf springs
Holley fuel pump
CVF billet pulleys and electric water pump
Jegs 100amp alt.

Great looking car. Looking forward to some more pics. Maybe with some nice Italian background!

We have one here in Springville ...Mustang Drv. It has gone missing a time or two ,i still dont have one !
What size nut is that ,3/4 ? Ah heck i will just bring my emergency tool kit 

There was a road sign in are town that was stolen so many times they changed the name of it.
 
Capt. Bud street......I don't have one of them  but I know people who do...
 
Peter pan  lane was also poplar...

I do believe that sign would look real nice in your shop!

You do not want to search ,hot tranny

I'm following this intently. My boy is 15 and has no interest in cars what so ever. Tried everything. Considering a DNA test.

All thank you for your help. I borrowed another meter and now move constant voltage at 14.6v.... thank goodness as I was about to loose my mind. Again thank you all.

That is the first time I’ve noticed the ameter do that. I had almost completely flattened the battery starting as I hadn’t noticed the fuel shutoff was closed (part of the GPS disabling). Not that this should cause the flickering. I will add that to the list.
i am interested in the idea of unbolting the torque converter. Can’t see why tha wouldn’t work so interested in any comments on this before I damage something.
i have a busy weekend and not sure if I can get to the car. May have to take some more time off work. I’m not feeling well. Must be coming down with something 

That is the first time I’ve noticed the ameter do that. I had almost completely flattened the battery starting as I hadn’t noticed the fuel shutoff was closed (part of the GPS disabling). Not that this should cause the flickering. I will add that to the list.
i am interested in the idea of unbolting the torque converter. Can’t see why tha wouldn’t work so interested in any comments on this before I damage something.
i have a busy weekend and not sure if I can get to the car. May have to take some more time off work. I’m not feeling well. Must be coming down with something 

Not sure if he has ever changed the flex plate or not.  Barnett maybe right an internal engine problem and when it comes to engines he usually is.  That is a nasty vibration tho and one would think if an internal problem the engine would have come from together by now.

I was under the impression everything but internal engine, the harmonic balancer, or the flex plate were eliminated.  On a side note, after you chase down the vibration it might be a good idea to check the charging system.  The ammeter in the video was dancing all over the place.  Might just be a gauge issue.  But worth checking.
I've never done this, but is it safe to unbolt the torque convertor from the flex plate, slide the torque convertor into the trans as far as it will go, then run the engine through the same RPM range.  This will eliminate the trans and drivetrain.  Just a thought, don't know how safe it is.  I guess it depends on how much clearance there will be between the flex plate and torque convertor.

Time to inspect that flexplate. You mentioned it was marked with felt pin which  probably means not original to the car and it was purchased at a bone yard and could have been marked wrong.

I would try and run it with the yoke in even if you have to take the uni joint out so you can eliminate the tail shaft . 

Wish I had better news but hopefully you will get lucky and it will be external. It happens once in a while.
 
 
 

Mal
In this video I assume you have the rear axle on jack stands and the whole drive train is turning. Is this correct?  Also is the vibration as noticeable with just the engine running? 
That's a pretty big vibration the way the steering wheel is vibrating or is that just a nervous camera . 

Shit that’s a bad vibration  Mal the way your steering wheel is moving. 
That’s got to bloody frustrating. I gather you have eliminated the wheels and tail shaft by removing them and running it up on stands. 

Just fyi, the 69 has a 3 bolt crank pulley, while the 70 and up is 4 bolt. 

No prob, and if you do need to balance it, start a thread on the ozzie mustang site. shaunp and glenn and a few others might know a reliable place near you. Wherever you go, just don't get it done were fitzy got his done, lol.