Vicfreg

Nice smooth, finish there, well done
Ed, I sent you an email earlier this week. Did you get it?

 

420 at the crank for a 347 stroker is a pretty damn good result as far as I’m concerned.  

Hi Roger, sorry to hear about that.  My guess is that the new owner isn't able to comply with some government requirements, and the current owner is wanting to switch you all over to subcontractors to avoid getting caught up with some contractual barriers that will prevent the sale.  
If they lay you off, they will have to offer you COBRA.   In that case being a 1099 may not be a bad deal. This happened  recently to my wife,  so been through that, and in the end, she became an independent contractor, and it worked out quite well.  
Good Luck!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks.  I will try the recalibration again considering this advice and me forgetting about the factory fan switch off position....

Same “S” clip that is used on the plastic duct pieces where they mount to the registers
 

I may have to look at my coffee, can full of brackets to find those clips, but I doubt I’ll find them, I’ll probably use some kind of adhesive tape or foam to attach them

Actually, there’s no holes there and I use the S clip and it worked fine.
.
 

For sure without Mike it would never have happened.  He is a sheet metal genius....
 
 

C4 is the logical choice. Find out what year it is, as there are several types of C-4 transmissions out there, and some of them are actually C-5s.
For sure should bolt up to your 302.
If you have the original flex plate, keep it and use it.  Later automatic transmissions could have a different "balance weight" than the older cars.
I actually have a c-6 bolted up to my '69 351 W block, it fits and works fine.  A C-6 is likely overkill for your car, and actually the C-4s can take plenty of power.
 
Vic

Also got my passenger side dash panel attached, final item was to install the screws to attach the panel to the map light assembly.  Used 1-1/2" #6 SS Pan Head Sheet Metal Screws with #6 SS washers, so it would not damage the paint.   Came out good.  Installed my "Mustang" emblem on the dash.   
 

Here is another great site.
https://www.mustangtek.com/

That looks like a '69 bracket in your picture.
The '70 version of that bracket is in the diagram below, with my pencil pointing at it. They serve the same purpose, which is to tie the forward facing part of the under column bracket to the clutch/brake pedal support bracket.  This is only on the drivers side of the column.  The diagram is from the Orange "Chassis" Assembly Manual.
The '69 column also has an upper column bracket. The '70 column doesn't have that, instead uses threaded bosses on the column that attach the column to the lower column support.   
For some reason, on the '70, Ford decided to change the design to anchor the column differently.  In the assembly drawings, the '70 small bracket (3B139) has a small diamond next to it, which means that it had to be installed per some specific instructions to meet government safety standards.  This is because it is tied into the function of the collapsing steering column, which has to be anchored inside the car to prevent rearward movement into the passenger compartment.   This started in 1968, which also delivered such goodies as padded dashes, shoulder belts, padded steering wheel centers, side marker lights, etc, etc...
Anyway, the 2 pictures you posted yesterday are the '70 bracket.  
 
 
 
 

Got the Fox Body door locks, and they are great OEM quality parts.   Just had to install the lock rod retainer on the other side of the lever, and they went right in.  The new style plastic retainers are really heavy duty, more so than the original plastic insert with the little metal clips. Tip is to install that on door lock before putting the lock in the car.  Less busted knuckles that way....
 
 

Used #6 SS Pan Head Sheet Metal screws 1-1/2" long, with #6 SS washers.  From local ACE Hardware.

#6 SS pan head sheet metal screws, 1-1/2" long, from Ace Hardware.  Used #6 SS washers. Worked well, looks good.

I am pretty sure you can use the dash without the tabs.
Vic

Here is another great site.
https://www.mustangtek.com/

Installing my kick panel and vent mounted speakers
 

I finally did sort out, but the official fastener should be for this map light.
For those of you who do not have the Ford fastener manual, I have found this to be one of my most important resources, as I did not disassemble all of my car, and only had coffee cans full of hardware when I purchased it
The assembly manuals have references to every fastener, and the Ford fastener manual has a cross reference that shows the exact hardware that was used by the factory at the time.
It actually shows photographs of what the fastener should look like, and it has a very detailed reference section on the type of finish, and so forth that was used by the factory for these fasteners, including the markings.
It’s worth the money, it’s actually not that expensive.  This allowed me to go to local fastener shop, and get what I need for these miscellaneous fasteners, that are not easily procured in these interior or exterior or body kits
An example here shows the drawing out of the assembly manual, with the map, light fastener circled, and then that fastener number is shown in the Ford fastener, manual, cross reference, and it takes you right to the page which shows the type of fastener it is.
In this case, it’s a number six pan head sheet metal screw that is three-quarter of an inch long.
I’m actually going to use the number six screw, with a washer, and mine will be stainless
 
 

Oh, that’s very interesting with your rev limiter, good job troubleshooting that
 

Installing my kick panel and vent mounted speakers
 

I finally did sort out, but the official fastener should be for this map light.
For those of you who do not have the Ford fastener manual, I have found this to be one of my most important resources, as I did not disassemble all of my car, and only had coffee cans full of hardware when I purchased it
The assembly manuals have references to every fastener, and the Ford fastener manual has a cross reference that shows the exact hardware that was used by the factory at the time.
It actually shows photographs of what the fastener should look like, and it has a very detailed reference section on the type of finish, and so forth that was used by the factory for these fasteners, including the markings.
It’s worth the money, it’s actually not that expensive.  This allowed me to go to local fastener shop, and get what I need for these miscellaneous fasteners, that are not easily procured in these interior or exterior or body kits
An example here shows the drawing out of the assembly manual, with the map, light fastener circled, and then that fastener number is shown in the Ford fastener, manual, cross reference, and it takes you right to the page which shows the type of fastener it is.
In this case, it’s a number six pan head sheet metal screw that is three-quarter of an inch long.
I’m actually going to use the number six screw, with a washer, and mine will be stainless
 
 

I finally did sort out, but the official fastener should be for this map light.
For those of you who do not have the Ford fastener manual, I have found this to be one of my most important resources, as I did not disassemble all of my car, and only had coffee cans full of hardware when I purchased it
The assembly manuals have references to every fastener, and the Ford fastener manual has a cross reference that shows the exact hardware that was used by the factory at the time.
It actually shows photographs of what the fastener should look like, and it has a very detailed reference section on the type of finish, and so forth that was used by the factory for these fasteners, including the markings.
It’s worth the money, it’s actually not that expensive.  This allowed me to go to local fastener shop, and get what I need for these miscellaneous fasteners, that are not easily procured in these interior or exterior or body kits
An example here shows the drawing out of the assembly manual, with the map, light fastener circled, and then that fastener number is shown in the Ford fastener, manual, cross reference, and it takes you right to the page which shows the type of fastener it is.
In this case, it’s a number six pan head sheet metal screw that is three-quarter of an inch long.
I’m actually going to use the number six screw, with a washer, and mine will be stainless
 
 

I finally did sort out, but the official fastener should be for this map light.
For those of you who do not have the Ford fastener manual, I have found this to be one of my most important resources, as I did not disassemble all of my car, and only had coffee cans full of hardware when I purchased it
The assembly manuals have references to every fastener, and the Ford fastener manual has a cross reference that shows the exact hardware that was used by the factory at the time.
It actually shows photographs of what the fastener should look like, and it has a very detailed reference section on the type of finish, and so forth that was used by the factory for these fasteners, including the markings.
It’s worth the money, it’s actually not that expensive.  This allowed me to go to local fastener shop, and get what I need for these miscellaneous fasteners, that are not easily procured in these interior or exterior or body kits
An example here shows the drawing out of the assembly manual, with the map, light fastener circled, and then that fastener number is shown in the Ford fastener, manual, cross reference, and it takes you right to the page which shows the type of fastener it is.
In this case, it’s a number six pan head sheet metal screw that is three-quarter of an inch long.
I’m actually going to use the number six screw, with a washer, and mine will be stainless
 
 

I finally went with Eaton Spring (the old Detroit Spring) and used 5 leaf springs on my '68.  They have the original spring patterns from Ford, and reproduce them with high quality steel.
I used the part number for the GT suspension.  The car is stiff, with a firm ride, but no bouncing.  I have Bilsteins.
Did the same on my '70 convertible.
One other possibility is that your driveshaft is binding.   I had this happen years ago, because I measured my driveshaft length when the car was up in the air.  Big mistake.  I installed the driveshaft when the car was in the air, and it seemed to fit fine.  But the car did ride and handle funny.
I found this out later when my rear universal joint failed.....