Vicfreg

Yeah, nice setup. I like the circuit breakers instead of fuses. The cool thing about that set up is that if you trip one breaker, you still have one fan left. Might be a tight squeeze to land the battery cable on that left solenoid post with 2 lugs already on it.

Turning wrenches is good therapy for recovering from that surgery.... good luck.

Dude, that is a shame. Thank goodness no one was hurt. I always use wheel chocks when I am getting my tie-downs set. I also cross the rear tie downs so the car won't move sideways.

One idea to end this thread would be to go with the machine gun louvers..... (not legal for sale or use in Kalifornia) Maybe our Aussie friends can get us some from the MadMax junkyard.....

Oh, here is the link to my project site... http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/54382-1970-convertible-restoration/&page=12

Thought I would put a quick post on my recently completed fenderwell wiring for my 1970 convertible. I am going to put the pictures below. To avoid duplicating a lot of explanation, if you want more details, head over to my 1970 Convertible Project Page.

Finally finished my drivers side fenderwell wiring. 1st pic is the grey non-metallic conduit and a 4' piece of 1" heat shrink. I really wanted to use black non-metallic conduit and fittings, but I ran out of patience looking around for it. So, used 1/2" grey flex conduit from Lowe's and got the large heat shrink from the local electrical supply house. A good heat gun and some patience and it came out great. I measured out the conduit and trial fit it first. 2nd pic are the wires that go from under the dash to the front of the car. These are the standard AAW wires (headlights, turn signals, horn, etc) plus other wires I needed to run (e.g. PWM fan controller temperature sensor wires). To keep them together and tight, I did a spaced tape wrap of the entire length of the wires. This will allow me to pull them through the conduit without them getting all bunched up. 3rd pic is my high tech wire fishing rig, which is a piece of string tied to a small nut. I dropped that through the conduit, then took a piece of #10 wire and hammered it over the string with a bullet nose shaped end. Then I pulled the red wire back through the conduit. 4th pic is the red wire hooked to the wire harness, pulled through the conduit. I took the red wire and laid it parallel on top of the wire harness for about 8", and taped it to the wire harness. This will keep the red wire from pulling off. I fished the wire through with the conduit as straight as possible. DON'T FORGET to install the connector caps on the conduit fittings before you start pulling wire or else you will be doing it over again.... 5th pic is the wire pulled through the conduit fitting at the front of the car. This is located at the bottom front of the inner drivers side fenderwell, adjacent to the factory wire routing hole in the radiator support. 6th and 7th pic is the conduit in place and hooked up. I will be installing some 5/8" heater hose style clamps to keep it in place. Now, onto the passenger side....

Hi Byron, Happy New Year. The second picture in my 12/22 post is a Pulse Width Modulation fan controller supplied by Auto Cool. The box posted in my 12/29 post is my Pertronix digital ignition box. I assume you are asking about the fan controller, so: http://www.autocoolguy.com/home There are a couple of reasons I chose this approach:. I am running a ~400 cubic inch stroker with an automatic and air conditioning. It will run hot. So, I went with a large aluminum radiator (DeWitt) with no integral transmission cooler. I am using 2 - 12" NASCAR cooling fans, and I need them to cool both the radiator and A/C condenser. So I need really tight temperature control that will also allow me to use the Vintage Air Trinary Safety Switch. I wanted a soft start controller so I would not have to worry about relay's cycling the fans on and off. There is also no real temperature control with a relay based system. The cool guy set up uses direct measurement in the radiator return line. I controlled the engine temperature running on my test stand in +/- 5 degree increments. I watched the fans ramp up and change speed slowly when I ran the set up on my engine test stand. It works like a variable speed drive on A/C motors. I wanted to mount the PWM controller in the trunk. The PWM controller manages the fan speed from the negative side. So, I ran power direct from my battery feed to the fans up front. Then, ran the PWM controller cable back to the trunk. I also had to run some other wires that were not included in the AAW set up back to the trunk. I actually used some of the AAW in-used wires as spares. (like the 3rd brake light for instance). I purchased the 100 amp PWM controller, which honestly, is overkill. I did it because at the time, it was the only "no buzz" controller available. (the others make some buzzing noise). Now the cool guy has a full line of the controllers in no buzz. I highly recommend their product. It is industrial grade, and is used on 24 volt military and commercial vehicles. I decided on the FiTech system afterwards, so I did not consider that option. But, one of my going in design goals was to have a stand alone cooling system that had it's own sensors and a manual override. I posted the top power connection a week or so ago, if you look back you can see how I wired it. I used wire #116, which is a spare key on power feed that comes from the AAW "accessory" plug. This wire is protected by the fuse that is labelled "PWR WDO", which is a 30 amp fuse. I did this to avoid using the original circuit breaker wire harness stuff that attaches to the starter solenoid on these cars. If you look at the .pdf file I attached to my post on Monday, it has the fuse assignments, and also every single wire in the AAW kit, plus all of my extra wires, tabulated and cross referenced. Hope this helps. Now that the holiday season is over, if you want to chat over the phone sometime, send me a PM and we can find some time during the evening.

Shep, thanks for the info. I have the command center and I am going to give it a try. Ran into a couple folks over the summer at car shows that were using it, that is what got me interested. I have heard some thing about overheating, will keep an eye on that. I have a dual plane Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold installed. I am not anxious to remove it and modify it. I also will be running a Shaker hood, so will have the same problem with a spacer. I think that for the RPM band my engine will operate in, the dual plane is still the correct choice. I used to run a single plane (torker) years ago on a small block ford, and I had to really wind it out to get it to run right. It also was not happy in the cold weather. I will be putting my engine in within the next 30 days, so hopefully by March, I will be running the engine with the EFI system all in.

Down the road a bit on this since last post. More details on my project site (1970 convertible)

I know this is an old post but I am getting ready to install the FiTech system with the command center. I was wondering about the vent as well, and wanted to know how you all made out with it.

Coupe guy here as well. Currently have a '66, a '68, and my '70 ......which is a topless coupe...the best kind.....

fvike, nice work. I am in the middle of my American Autowire installation, running wires in the fenderwells, etc. I have posted a number of pictures of this on the project forum here - "1970 Convertible Restoration". Would be happy to share some lessons learned.

Crap, looks like it somehow crushed your motor housing as well...

Probably ok for a '57 Pickup then.....let us know how it works out.

I used the Mustang Steve brackets and factory Ford stock disc brakes. The price point is pretty good for this, and you can get a lot of the parts at local auto stores, or on Ebay. I have some details posted on my 1970 convertible forum. Try going to front discs first, and saving the back drums. Should be lots of available parts to fix the rear drums up.

I was asked to share some of my info on the interface between the AAW wiring and the VHX dash and Vintage Air system, in particular, the Trinary Safety Switch. Have attached some information on this which shows some block diagrams and wiring diagrams that I used when first laying all of this out. Hope others find it helpful. Pic below is Trinary Safety Switch with connector. AAW wire tab attachment is my working spreadsheet for all of my wiring. Other document is .pdf of some sketches and block diagrams AAW Wire Tab - 70 Convertible (V4a).pdf new doc 2018-01-01 15.08.30.pdf

Hey Bob....I was typing my response at the same time you submitted yours.... My guess also was a 9-3/8"

It appears that what you have here is a 9-3/8" axle. These were used from around 1960 to 1972 large Ford cars (Lincoln) and big block pickup trucks. Your last picture has the best clue to this. The top rib of the axle housing is curved down and meets the second rib. This is a unique characteristic of the 9-3/8" axle, that is not shared by the 9" rear ends. (see picture of my center section, attached below, which is a "Nodular" case with a Daytona Pinion) Other clues: The Ford part number in your 6th picture begins with "C8AW". The third digit in this part number is an "A". "A" is typically used for large Ford Cars like a Ford Galaxie. 1960's/1970's Mustangs typically use a "Z" , so you would see a "C8ZW" versus a "C8AW" if it were a Mustang Rear. The large brake pads are an indication that it was used on a large car/truck. Rear drain plug I have heard that you can put a 9" center section in one of these 9-3/8" housing, but have never personally done it. Also, you need to check the flange to flange width of the axle assembly. For a 1967-1970 Mustang, you need to have a flange to flange width of around 59-3/8". My guess is that the axle you have is wider than that. My opinion is that these 9-3/8" rear ends are not something that you can easily get parts for, so I would not personally recommend using this in a Mustang. If you do use it, it would be interesting to see how you modify it to work. Best of luck! Happy New Year!

Took advantage of some very cold weather locally to stay inside and keep moving on my wiring. I fabricated some harnesses to run through the passenger side fenderwell. These will be used for the Pertronix Ignition Box, the FITech Fuel Command Center, and the Trinary Safety Switch that feeds the Vintage Air System. The FiTech and VA stuff is on the drivers side of the car, so you can see the wires running across the bottom of the radiator support, and then coiled up on the drivers side. I ran out of room in my 1/2' conduit on the drivers side, so I had to run these 4 wires the long way, from the passenger side. I installed the 1/2" non-metallic conduit elbow and pulled the cables through. This is for the Ignition Box and Trinary Safety Switch Wiring. I am waiting on a shipment of black, 1/2" non-metallic conduit to complete both the drivers side and passenger side fenderwell wiring. On the passenger side, I will add a second conduit, which will run together with the first one, and will contain the large red wire (power distribution block) and 2 small wires (ignition box trigger wires) that will run into the passenger compartment as well. I routed the trigger wires separately from the other ignition box wires, in particular the coil, on advice from Pertronix that the MSD box coil wiring can be "noisy" and should be separated from the trigger wires. Also ran my power feed wire up front for my transmission cooler. I am using the AAW connectors as needed to make the installation go easier, or where I need to pull wires through the conduit. I don't generally use splices. 1st picture shows passenger side fenderwell with the non-metallic conduit elbow 2nd picture shows the inside of the engine compartment on that side, and where I installed the non-metallic conduit elbow. Also shows my front power distribution block, with the main feed that goes into the car, 2 wires for each of my electric fans, one wire power feed to the Pertronix Box, and one power feed for my transmission cooler 3rd picture shows all the wiring that will be routed in the passenger side fenderwell. Large harness is for the ignition box and VA safety switch. Small harness is the 2 ignition box trigger wires and 2 spare wires. Large red wire is the power feed that connects the in-car main power block to the front power block 4th picture shows the wiring running across the bottom of the radiator support.

Got my ignition box installed. Ran the wiring up to the radiator support where it will be combined with my other wiring on the passenger side which will be run in conduit through the fenderwell and then into the passenger compartment Black terminal block in pictures is my “front” power distribution point, which is fed from inside the car. The front power point feeds my 2 electric fans, ignition box, and transmission cooler. Picture of outer fenderwell shows the power feed wire from the front power point (big red wire) and the ignition box wires (black flex conduit)

Mike, wiring diagrams.... Run new wires in place of wires 268, 269, and 270 from heater blower switch connector “B” to blower resistor box connector “J”. Run AAW wire number 50 to the wire 257 spot on your heater blower switch connector “B”. I would use number 10 wire In the instrument panel view the heater blower switch is connector number 22, and the resister box is connected number 23

Cool, nice work. I like that having 2 switches there.

Wow. Interesting on the fusing. I think this is referring to if you buy the fuse panel separately instead of with the kit, but I will call AAWW to get some clarification thanks .., Yeah the 1987 parking brakes and I set up, I’ve seen others use that

Mike, all of the AAW accessory connectors are fused. But, AAW does not supply a fuse/load list. I exchanged some emails with them, abd have attached what U have come up with. So, you may not need to use the in line fuse holder. I really like the center hand brake and dedicated light Just thinking now that another option other AAW users could do would be to power the E Brake switch in parrallel with the brake booster warning light, so the E Brake would light up the stock brake warning light on the dash. This is the Tan “Brake Warning Light” wire that comes off the harness