Vicfreg

Jerrad, here are some pics of what my fans look like mounted to my test stand. I will likely use some aluminum angle to mount the fans to for the final install in the car, versus wire ties...

I got the battery tray here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARTEC-Group-34-Optima-Battery-REAR-Mount-Universal-OP3407-Raw-/131775521827?hash=item1eae6ee423 These are really heavy duty, a lot of off road guys use them. Mine came uncoated, so I did the prime and paint thing. I purchased the "side mount" battery tray so I could bolt my mounting plate behind it, and still bolt the whole thing down when I was done. The back plate is made out of 1/2" birch plywood, sandwiched between 2 thin (maybe 12 gauge) sheet metal plates that I got from Tractor Supply. I cut the wood to match the plates and primed it. Then, located my main power switch, and other stuff and bolted it all down, and fabricated the cables. Took it all apart, finish coated it in VHT black epoxy, and put it back together.

Thanks.... Keep in touch as you go along with your project. Vic

Right now it is mounted on the front with wire ties, as it is on my engine stand. There are 4 mounting tabs. I will probably use some 1”x1” aluminum angle to make mounting brackets i will post some detailed pics.

Shep, thanks for that info. I have manual 4 wheel disc brakes on my ‘68 coupe, stops fine, but a lot of pedal effort Even if I get a little power assist for my ‘70, I will be happy. My ‘70 us also s factiry A/C car, and came from the factory with a vacuum reservoir that was mounted in the passenger fenderwell Maybe I will try that to see if it helps I have eliminated all of my vacuum lines by using Vintage Air

I live near Mooresville, NC, which is where many of the race teams and suppliers to NASCAR are located. Maradyne supplies some of the teams with fans. They have integral shrouds. I will take a picture tomorrow.. they are currently installed on my engine test stand.

Hey Bob. Had a similar issue with hubs on my 1970. I believe the hub on the right in your picture is the correct one. There are a lot of earlier Mustang hubs that may or may not fit the later models. I used the drum brake hubs and the Mustang Steve kit with 2004 Cobra Brakes. I actually wound up with a hub that was warped. Probably from some ancient accident running into a curb..... They are getting hard to find. I sourced mine I think from a Fairlane....

Hey Jerrad. I was very paranoid as well. That's why I went with the DeWitt aluminum direct fit radiator, and the Maradyne fans. I also have a serpentine belt setup, and all my measuring and inquiries on this site tell me that I will have maybe an inch to 2 inches clearance between the water pump pulley and the fans. That is also why I used 2 fans, as there is a gap between them. I decided this week to go with adjustable motor mounts, not only for the fan clearance, but also to allow adjustment for my shaker hood setup, as I am using a high rise manifold and fuel injection, and may need to run a spacer plate. Mike on this site (Latoracing) makes these, and is finishing up a set of them for me right now. I plan to install my engine in the next 30 days, so I will let you know how it works out. If you like the motor mount set up, I think Mike has a few sets left, you can contact him. His quality is top flight. Hope this helps.

Great stuff and nice work.. Will be following this all the way till it's done....

Be careful.....these are hard to find. I think on mine it was some kind of adhesive, I don't remember. But the trim is really easy to bend.

I am running my power steering hoses through the drivers side fenderwell to keep them cool. On my '68 coupe, I have them wrapped in DEI heat sleeving. I will be posting pictures of the hose outing/bulkhead connectors, etc on my Project site next week....

I love it when a plan comes together....... The Jag louvers are still the best..... Ha....

69Stanger.... I just finished my AAW harness install. You can see the details on my project thread - 1970 Convertible Restoration. I did the following on my build which should cover just about anything you need to do. Happy to answer any questions. Trunk mounted battery 140 amp single wire alternator Vintage Air Fuel Injection Electric Fans Electric Fan/trans cooler VHX dash PWM fan controller Starter solenoid in trunk - starter wire only hot when starting Power distribution terminal blocks Grounding distribution terminal blocks Wiring routed in fenderwells Regards, Vic

Hello Must. I did finally find one in my storage area. It is in really good shape. I am willing to sell it, as I have another one.

I have same issues as Rsanter with space. My engine makes 11 inches of vacuum at idle. I have at least one 69 and one 70 original booster.. if anyone needs one I will look in my stash and take some pics Rsanter- which TuffStuff model did you use? Any pictures?

Cool. Dr DOHC has some cool go fast parts for these engines so you can use them in vintage cars....

Right....good move.......

Trying to sort out the various options for my new power brake booster. Looking for some advice and lessons learned, and recommendations. My car is an original power brake car with the stock brake pedal support and power brake pedal. I am using 2004 Cobra disc brakes front and rear. I have a 351W, and using a Borgeson power steering upgrade. I would like a reduced size booster if possible (7"). I am ok with running an aftermarket master cylinder, proportioning valve and brake distribution block, and making new brake lines. I would prefer to have the block/valve assembly mounted on the master cylinder, rather than bolted to the fenderwell. Any help would be appreciated...

I used an adjustable one for my 4 wheel disc brake upgrade. That was recommended by SSBC.

They wanted the hood pins (1969) versus the twist locks that were used in 1970, so they modified the hood ....

I used to run Environmental Health and Safety for a large company, and this is a huge issue when working on any "vintage" equipment that may have used materials for fire retardant purposes, or insulation. There was wide spread use of a material called "mastic" which was used in a paste, or adhesive form. There were some non-US companies that actually applied mastic to car body parts. Jaguar is one of them. Fortunately, there are many products available for "encapsulation" of asbestos areas. These of course, need to be applied by professional and certified individuals. Lots of info here in the US on this topic. Just one resource here: https://www.asbestos.com/

-I don't have a Cleveland, but no issues on my small blocks. copb8 do you have a stock driveline or an aftermarket 5 speed or AOD? Transmission mounting can impact this as well.

No but do like the look!

Opened up my FiTech command center today. Spotless inside. I have the sintered filter on the vent. Comments? Any updates I need to do before I close it back up?

Mike. So sad about you losing your dog last June. Ours is 13 years old and this is her second car restoration project. Hope she gets to see it finished....