Mach1 Driver

For those that aren't aware, the relay is hooked up with the Purple and Black wires to the relay coil terminals (often numbered 85 & 86), the Red to relay common (#30) and the Orange wire to relay N.O. terminal (#87)

Yup, got it replaced about 10 days ago and now under physical therapy.  Otherwise, I'm still the same crotchety bastard I've always been...

I have been looking for an automatic for my 2005 Gt for over a year now ,its nearly impossible to find ,it 2005 and 2006 only just like the wiring ...Fords better idea i guess! Just picked up a 2005 GT 30 miles from me for 2000. 
The kid decided to ad a radio and did his own wiring ,yep ,you guessed it ,he set it on fire! He burned the top off the fuse box ,and the casing off the harness but it didnt burn the wires . Melted a brand new battery ! I gave him 2000 for it ,got it home and replaced all the melted fuses and dropped in a new battery and yee haw the sucker fired right up haha!
I drove it around the pasture and it runs great and shifts perfect ,i could have put it back together but the kid started to strip it already . 
Today i pulled the motor and tranny and found it had a fresh rebuild tranny ,new starter ,new alternator ,front struts ,drilled and slotted rotors that dont even have the machine marks rubbed off ,new joints in the drive shaft and lowering springs . This is all going in my 2005 ,and it all cost me less than having my tranny rebuilt !
The motor has 121000 miles and runs great so it may go in my 56 fairlane . All in all it was a good day for me ,and i should have mine running  in a few days .

FYI ...
If the Deluxe Belts was a "factory installed option" on a "non-tach / standard instrument cluster" car, the seatbelt light is in the instrument cluster (RH side of FUEL/TEMP Gauge Pod), not on the lower dash like it would be on a factory tach cluster car.
The harness for the dash cluster belts light is different in that it has a twist-in plastic bulb socket (see pic) and is likely more common.
Just thought I'd throw this out there too.
Doug

I've had the Nu-Relics on my 69 without issue for a few years. There is an install issue with the driver side arm that mounts to the rear hole on the glue in glass bracket. This lip on the bottom edge needs to be removed so the flat arm can move in its entire range of motion. The passenger side arm is stepped to avoid the contact. 

This is what he is looking for guys, 10A885:

I use 3M glue per their instructions. You put it on to both headliner and the window frame then wait for it to dry until it is not tacky, then join the pieces while pulling tight. This way the glue joins the pieces immediately and not require clips etc for it to dry. You have to be careful with placement of the headliner as you can’t reposition and it is difficult to disjoin the parts. Also, when you install the metal trim back, it pulls the headliner a little more.
Join some scrap pieces using above method and you will see that it grabs immediately and you do not need spring clips. 

I shipped a box that was supposed to go to  LA. It went to fresno first ,then bakersfield ,back to fresno then some town up north then finally made it to LA. Took a week to what should have been a 200 mile trip ,it saw more of california than i ever have !

Ridge is just a wealth of knowledge :D

Ok boys n girls! First ones out of the mold ,a couple of very tiny flaws but i know what will take care of that . 
They are so small i have to be very careful when trimming them but i can guarantee they are a lot tougher than the original pieces .
Now for the rear seat panels ,i am going to completely re work my set ,re texture and make a new set of molds .  

got the week off to tackle this, so far its been a crazy experience. Im looking forward to getting this girl back on the road!
 

Chrysler...Buick...Chivy... who keeps track of those cars anyway?

I know Bob just made a mistake but truth is most younger guys would not have known the difference

I won't mention the "Chrysler Invicta" if you change it quickly. ;)

Yep. It was kinda weird. But it did get everyone's attention. 

Thanks, that's a good find- now we only need the sides 8242-4A and 8243-4A  to match. Those would be tough shapes to tool in stainless, but its no problem to chrome the aluminum.

It always bugged me that the trim around the grill is bright anodized and obviously different than the rest of the bright work. I've always wanted to have it nickel chrome electroplated. I think I'll look into that.

Ridge is just a wealth of knowledge :D

Dont buff until you get down to the finest grit or it is a lot more work .
I bought a buffer from Harbor freight years ago and it still works great ,i just mounted it on a pole . The buff wheels and compounds i would get a the Turlock swap meet ,those bars are at least 15 years old and started out about 12 inches long ,white is stainless and green is a polish grit . Final phase is mothers mag polish for a very bright glow . 
Make sure to wrap the nut at the polish wheel with tape or you will soon find out why . 
Wear gloves and keep a tight grip on the metal or you will find it right between your eyes ,hold the metal to the wheel gently and mage sure there is no edge to grab ,it is best to buff length wise so it doesnt  grab and wrap your stainless around the shaft . 
The longest hammer is from EastWoods ,one is actually a tack hammer ,i keep them polished so they dont mark the metal when knocking out dings . These tiny hammers also work great for very fine body work !
Sometime this summer i have all the stainless for two 56 Ford Fairlanes to buff and that is not going to be a lot of fun!

I have no direct knowledge of liskey measurements, but if your floor is anything like mine, it is very uneven. You may want to think about using a cheap auto-leveling laser for much better accuracy: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=how+to+use+a+lazer+level+to+level+a+car+chassis#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:4f8f3d47,vid:NL4KyLA6mJk

It is supposed to bend up ,for some reason the make them with the bend the wrong way . I usually hammer it flat and then put it in my sheet metal bender and bend it up . It can be hammer and dolly up

My brother and I drove down to Pomona Friday to check out the show. Having never been before, we didn't know what to expect. We had a great time, and I'd recommend it to any gearhead. 
The level of engineering, fabrication, style, and paint was over the top. Everyone there was a nice as could be. While waiting on line for the gates to open, we chatted with folks from England and New Zealand who traveled here just for the show. There are about 7 buildings used, and lots of cars parked outside. I've never seen so many Ford motors in Ford cars before. Hopefully it's catching on. 
The Ring brother's had a 48? Chevy pu that had 10,000 shop hours, and 2,000 design hours in it. Wth? 
This Mustang is owned by, and built by guys from Bakersfield. I'd met the owner a few years ago at an F100 meet in Santa Maria. I didn't see him Friday, but he's a down to earth friendly dude who has 17 of these top shelf builds. I'd seen two of his 56 F100s, and his 62 Starliner that has a Kasse B9 in it. 

Similar to the rust in my fastback trunk lid and usual lower door corners. Cut the rust out and made a bath/box to immersed them in a citric acid solution to get rid of any other unseen rust. Followed up with a phosphoric acid dip and hot dry before paint. Will finish up with a rust inhibiter wax soon while the weather Downunder is still hot. 

Ok ,i sanded out any imperfections ,scuffed it well with a green scotch brite ,tack ragged it and sprayed 3 coats ,go light and allow each coat to set up in between . These are wet but you can now see the grain ,i held the can about 12 inches from the panels

The pulleys I had ended up working fine.
Power Steering - DO0R-B
Alternator - C5AF-10353-H 
Water Pump - D1AE-8509-BA 
Crank - D00E-6312-B 
 
The issue I was having with those pulleys turned out to be caused by the water pump fan hub being installed at the wrong height. I never knew it was wrong before since everything was just a cobbled together mismatch of parts that I made work with some homegrown brackets/spacers.