Mach1 Driver

@Rcodenewf, it has been a long time since I installed a reproduction w/s (which I assume is what you are using). I looked at a few original doors I have with original w/s on them and on some one end of the w/s is little lifted, some are laying good; lifted ones did not have glue under lifted areas. If your w/s is a good quality (ie soft) then when you glue them, they should confirm. Follow the directions on the glue (ie put it on both sides, wait X minutes for it to get non-tacky etc). Last time I installed door w/s a couple years ago, I re-used the original w/s I removed without damaging it. I used the black 3M which I think holds a little better than the yellow one; do the aft side of the door first, then half of bottom, then other half, then front and glue it in sections. Before gluing, I install it with masking tape and mark the w/s and door in a few places so the ends of w/s matches to the screw holes at both ends of the w/s. Then glue section at a time, and attach per the marks I made on door and w/s. Attach one flat side of the 90 first while butting the 90 degree to the door 90 degree then press the other flat side. If you follow the directions on the glue and if your w/s is soft, glue will confirm the w/s to door. Good luck.

Ride comfort won't be improved by going from 15 to 17:
 

I dont think so ,you may be able to from the bottom one layer at a time ,the floor pan overlaps it on the top 

I connected them in the last 67 i did ,you will have to notch the front torque box and the rear torque box and weld around them. You will have to support the entire side or the car from the front rails to the rear rails because you will be cutting them loose when you notch them ,i will see if i can find my pics

Hmm...I certainly hope you mean in talent, and not looks. 

That could be my car... except for my red stripe, and the 428, and the shaker, and the top loader, and....

Finished putting in anew apron today. 

Yeah old thread, and they're talking about 70s, but following that line of thought, I never understood why guys put a rear deck spoiler on a 69 fastback, since it already has a duck ass. Adding a spoiler just looks like and afterthought to me and out of place. Just my opinion.... and no doubt influenced by looking at mine, without a spoiler, for over 50 years.

thank you for asking.
sorry, not much to report.  I was a little burnt out after that body work and have been working a lot out of state since october.  
Its in a stage where it's just going to look the same for awhile anyways... the exterior, dash, trunk area are sanded and with a few more hours ready to prime again.
A few other things though.  Steering wheel is finished up and the stainless trim has been reworked (a lot of dents along all those edges and a few gashes).  there is a lot more stainless on this than the mustang!  happy to be done with that process.
also got the dashpad clearanced for around the rollcage.  have the trunk filler panel cut and ready to go.  so that's a complicated process of installing it, putting trim around the hole and getting those small pieces i had to cut to sit back flush when it gets installed for the final time.
i did pick up an old antique tractor (1948, Farmall H) that I've been wanting for a long time.  It's a 20 footer so i'm planning to fully restore that after this falcon (and put too much money into it).  these are a dime a dozen.  It runs really well.  I only did a few things to that (found an original seat assembly, paper belt pulley,  alternator/12v mod, pulled the pan/valve cover, etc).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
note: the painted tray and small pieces are just sitting in there.  final install will get the small trim pieces around the tubes i made and a method to secure those cutout pieces flat.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

When the heat is on here in Tucson, lots of creeps idle around open bedroom windows...just saying...

I did a write-up on the 70 turn signals, but I'll be darned if I can find it on here. In case you aren't aware I will describe their odd but normal operation. The side marker lights flash in sync with the turn signals when the headlights are off, but when the headlights (or parking lights) are on, the markers flash alternately with the turn signals. I can repost how this works if you are interested.

Ya that shaker is one of my better purchases. It was on a boat for sale on the side of the road. The extra height of the shaker thru the hood isn't too obnoxious, so I'll keep it as is. 

That's good to know info on the 95 amp single belt, thanks. 
Back in 2006 I bought just the cradle from Ride Tech for their triangulated arms.

I made the arms and axle brackets pretty easily. It does make routing exhaust out the back a royal pain, but I like side exit. The upper arms are short, ~12", and less than 50% of the lower arm length, which is not optimal.

The arms do eliminate axle wrap, and keep the axle from lateral movement. If I had to spend retail pricing for a rear kit I wouldn't do it. 
Thanks for the info Terry. 
 

Yeah, I know. Its an awesome car! What I meant was that I'd personally prefer a hybrid that I could drive to the next city without having to recharge.

I used the Tanks Inc. and didn't like the lines in the trunk area but it was the only one available at the time. Unless Tanks has changed there pumps it is very noisy I changed my pump to the Aeromotive one.

1970_TA_Mustang_Suspension.pdf
Some related information
 
 

Update on electrical progress:  I pulled the firewall plug and got my bearings correct of the pins this time.  I pushed/pulled the burnt pin further out of plug and cleaned up.  Found that wire pulled out of plug was for park/marker lights and got it back where belongs.  Electric lubed all pins and put back together.  I now have high/low beam lights.  Hurray! Still no turn signals and only right front drive/marker lights.  That will be next.  Have harness coming soon to try that route.  Progress!

Yes, there are quite a few companies that do this.  The price a few years ago was prohibitive, but not any more.   Just an example in the Charlotte area:
I am still convinced that I had them, as I have pictures of the assembled top.  They are in a ziplock bag in some box somehere.....ugh......
Online Metal 3D Printing Service | Functional end parts & rapid prototyping | 3D Hubs
 
 

Sometimes the connector goes causing the switch to overheat and fail. Replacing the switch when this happens is a temporary solution unless you replace the mating connector.
If you can get it to work, leave it on for a while then touch the wires coming out of the connector with your hand. If you feel heat, replace the connector as well. Unplug the connector and look for signs of burning on the electrical sockets or plastic inside the connector. This is a sign the connector is bad. If the contact is bad enough, you may not be ale to get the lights to work.
As mentioned above many people buy a relay kit and use the switch to only pull in the relay. The advantage of this is you do not run the high current the headlights requires through the switch. This current is what causes the connector and switch to fail.

OK, if both headlights and not the taillights are doing this is can only be the following
1 light switch
2 headlight dimmer switch
3 connection between under dash harness and under hood harness.
Pull up the carpet on the dimmer switch and examine it for a solid or weak connection. 
Mach 1 driver called it Wiggle, I call it Jiggle.  Maybe what you call it depends on where you live or what you are jiggling? 
But I say it now looks like the most likely contributor to this is the headlight switch.   
The simple solution is to be home before sundown.  

I understand this. If the brake light works, that means the headlight switch is connected and getting 12 volts. If the PRND light works, that also means the switch is getting 12 volts, but it also means the switch is ( at least partially) working. Just using these to narrow it down a bit. 

Unless someone on here recommends O'Reillys, I wouldn't suggest it. The market is flooded with cheap Chinese switches that are junk. Try National Parts Depot, they sell some of the best stuff. The problem could be in several places- the switch, dimmer, firewall connector, connections on the harnesses themselves, or the grounds. This schematic shows how it works, but is not a wire diagram, which shows how it is wired:

Continued my wiper install.  Had to source a new motor assembly got a rebuilt one.  Used the grommet and plug from the old one.  Followed my somewhat anal wiring process which is  to heat shrink the individual wires together, stagger the cuts and splices/crimps, heat shrink the splice area, tape wrap the rest, and them put in my favorite fabric wire loom. A little work but in the end, leak tight and solid connections that look good.

I would do it right and get new connectors, you could try Midlife: http://midlifeharness.com/

Man, that 70 Boss is pretty

Fly Mach 1 driver out for a week, he'll get it fixed right in no time. But Midlife is driving distance,  so...  :)