MAD IN NC 21 Report post Posted August 10, 2008 As I rebuild the engine I have a chance to upgrade the 60a Alt to a 2G or 3G offering. The key reason is more power as I will be running electric fans, HID lights etc... I realize that I will have to rework the regulator etc. but it appears CJ has a harness kit! What is the easiest way to go? 2G in the same size case? 3G? guidance requested. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAD IN NC 21 Report post Posted August 10, 2008 As I rebuild the engine I have a chance to upgrade the 60a Alt to a 2G or 3G offering. The key reason is more power as I will be running electric fans, HID lights etc... I realize that I will have to rework the regulator etc. but it appears CJ has a harness kit! What is the easiest way to go? 2G in the same size case? 3G? guidance requested. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted August 10, 2008 I'm looking at doing a 3G conversion using a 95 5.0 mustang alternator and the kit from here. http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=75 Lots of good information on this site. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Grabber70Mach 107 Report post Posted August 10, 2008 I'm looking at doing a 3G conversion using a 95 5.0 mustang alternator and the kit from here. http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=75 Lots of good information on this site. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted August 10, 2008 the 2g unit will look more stock as would even a gm alternator conversion, and the 3g will put out a lot of amps but not that much more than a 2g or gm alternator. since you're going with the GM pump for the rack and the march serpentine setup stock looking is probably not important so the 3g is probably a good choice, provided it will work with your march pulley setup. __________________ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted August 10, 2008 the 2g unit will look more stock as would even a gm alternator conversion, and the 3g will put out a lot of amps but not that much more than a 2g or gm alternator. since you're going with the GM pump for the rack and the march serpentine setup stock looking is probably not important so the 3g is probably a good choice, provided it will work with your march pulley setup. __________________ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KevinT 10 Report post Posted August 10, 2008 I installed the 3g in my 69, 302 and love it. Very easy installation and works great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KevinT 10 Report post Posted August 10, 2008 I installed the 3g in my 69, 302 and love it. Very easy installation and works great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAD IN NC 21 Report post Posted August 17, 2008 went with the 3G 140 AMP from March (Tuffstuff). Cost under $200 polished! Single wire... let's see what happens when I get her in the car with the motor - Thanks. Mine as well make it simple... (plus - no ext. Voltage Regulator) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAD IN NC 21 Report post Posted August 17, 2008 went with the 3G 140 AMP from March (Tuffstuff). Cost under $200 polished! Single wire... let's see what happens when I get her in the car with the motor - Thanks. Mine as well make it simple... (plus - no ext. Voltage Regulator) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EastYorkStang 63 Report post Posted January 11, 2021 From what I’ve read the 3G unit is the best. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted January 11, 2021 Aw... it looks like you got sucked into an old post. I'm really good at that too! But since we're here we might as well talk about alternators.Yep, 3G is the way to go, but decide if you want to keep the original look (and fan) or go electric. Pick a 95A to stay original. More than that and most likely you'll need to switch to a serpentine system or the belt will slip. I won't mention any avatar names, but some people have been known to use a turnbuckle to snug it up. I'm not sure if the water pump bearing likes all that side thrust, but there ya go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 12, 2021 Ya, one of those unnamed avatar names is me, but I'm getting closer to undoing the electric fans and serpentine belt crap. I've raised the motor and trans back up at the expense of the shaker sitting higher than stock. But being able to run stock fan and dual V belts more than outweighs it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted January 12, 2021 1 hour ago, RPM said: Ya, one of those unnamed avatar names is me, but I'm getting closer to undoing the electric fans and serpentine belt crap. I've raised the motor and trans back up at the expense of the shaker sitting higher than stock. But being able to run stock fan and dual V belts more than outweighs it. OK Bob, now you've got me confused. An unintended consequence of the shaker was a need to lower the motor, then the fan was too low in the shroud and you switched to a serpentine and electric fans. But your serpentine system doesn't have a belt tensioner so you use a turnbuckle? Is that about right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 12, 2021 You are dead nuts on Terry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted January 12, 2021 I converted to a 95A 3G alt on my 69 Coupe without any accessories except for the alt. I am using a single serpentine belt & use the alt to adjust the tension using the stock alt brackets. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted January 12, 2021 3 hours ago, RPM said: You are dead nuts on Terry. That brings several other questions to mind: 1) Shakers were factory ordered, so whats different about your car that the motor had to be lower than others? Relating to the need for dual V-belts: 2) Do you have PS and AC? 3) How many amps is the alternator? 4) Did you have to change the pinion angle after repositioning the motor and how big a deal was that? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 12, 2021 2 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said: That brings several other questions to mind: 1) Shakers were factory ordered, so whats different about your car that the motor had to be lower than others? Relating to the need for dual V-belts: 2) Do you have PS and AC? 3) How many amps is the alternator? 4) Did you have to change the pinion angle after repositioning the motor and how big a deal was that? 1) Weeell... I have a 351w and my $25 shaker is for a 428cj. So I thought the easy way (wrong again) to fix the fit would be to lower the motor. 2) Currently no PS or AC, but I'm collection parts for a mostly stock AC. 3) 100 amp, I think. 4) No. I lowered the motor and trans the same amount. But I have a triangulated 4 bar rear suspension which makes it easy. Ya, I can't leave well enough alone on my car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted January 13, 2021 12 hours ago, RPM said: 1) Weeell... I have a 351w and my $25 shaker is for a 428cj. So I thought the easy way (wrong again) to fix the fit would be to lower the motor. 2) Currently no PS or AC, but I'm collection parts for a mostly stock AC. 3) 100 amp, I think. 4) No. I lowered the motor and trans the same amount. But I have a triangulated 4 bar rear suspension which makes it easy. Ya, I can't leave well enough alone on my car. That's quite a deal for a shaker! Buckeye Demon modified his shaker- of course he has crazy skills. Its shown on pages 2, 3, 38, and 44 of 69 Mach 408 Build. That might give you some ideas. If you have a 100A alternator it may not need two v-belts to spin it. 95A is said to be the limit for a single v-belt. but since you don't have PS you may be able to use dual belts if needed. Whose 4 bar are you using? Is it worth the upgrade or should I just leave it alone? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted January 13, 2021 Ya that shaker is one of my better purchases. It was on a boat for sale on the side of the road. The extra height of the shaker thru the hood isn't too obnoxious, so I'll keep it as is. That's good to know info on the 95 amp single belt, thanks. Back in 2006 I bought just the cradle from Ride Tech for their triangulated arms. I made the arms and axle brackets pretty easily. It does make routing exhaust out the back a royal pain, but I like side exit. The upper arms are short, ~12", and less than 50% of the lower arm length, which is not optimal. The arms do eliminate axle wrap, and keep the axle from lateral movement. If I had to spend retail pricing for a rear kit I wouldn't do it. Thanks for the info Terry. 1 Mach1 Driver reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted January 13, 2021 The shaker looks good. I remember you saying that you had side exhaust- now I understand why. That's bad to the bone. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted January 13, 2021 Bob, I may have found a video on your 4 link. I see why its so easy to set the pinion angle: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites