Mach1 Driver

I have the Holley Sniper installed on my 408 stroked Cleveland M- code. I also installed Holley's Hyperspark Coil, Distributor, and Ignition box. The fuel pump is also a Holley in tank 69-70 retro fit return-less pump with fuel sender. I have no complaints, with the Hyperspark the initial turning done by selecting Hyperspark when first configuring the ECU. You can refine it from there.  The return-less in tank pump you just use you exiting fuel line and modify both ends to connect to the pump and the sniper. 
Most important is to run adequate size wire gauge and connect the power to a clean dedicated right off the battery, Tao into the ignition wire as sloe to the ignition switch as possible to avoid issue with factory resistance wires. Make sure you have no vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks before or right after the O2 Sensor. Exhaust leaks before or close to the O2 sensor wreak havoc on the Sniper closed loop system causing constant fluctuation between rich and lean fuel conditions as the Sniper ECU tries to maintain the target air/fuel ratio.  If you have an original (unconverted Ohm driven) factory Tach, you will need to have Rocketman convert it to a voltage driven tach, or buy a product called Tach Adapter from MSD. The Tach Adapter converts the Sniper voltage tach signal to a Ohm driven signal. Essentially mimicking the factory coil output to the factory tach.
Finally, I have found Holley's Tech support to be outstanding. Available Monday thru Saturday from 8am to 8pm Eastern time and usually only a 10-15 min wait time. 

I feel your pain Jerry, this is from today. And btw, I am lazy. 

For example, can this cluster be wired up such that the factory headlight switch you rotate to brighten and dim the gauges still works?
Dakota has DIM GRD and DIM SIG inputs and they sell a 10k pot to dim the display. Keep in mind that the ash tray, heater, radio, and clock lights are still on the light switch dimmer, have a different power source and fuse, so the two circuits need to be separate. I've contemplated machining a shaft for the light switch to interface with the Dakota dimmer in some Rube Goldberg contraption. That would be a fun little project.

You do know that MSD stands for my spark disappeared, right? Although I've never had one, and many people love them. 

Unfortunately, I found very few classics in my club, and even fewer people who actually work on their cars. I find that frustrating, because I like working on things, and talking to like minded people. If you don't have some natural mechanical ability, it will be very difficult. I have one son that doesn't know one end of a screwdriver from the other, but his younger brother will attempt anything. I figure I could do anything, but there are some things I just don't want to do. For instance, I think hog ring pliers would make my arthritis act-up, so unless I can fashion a pair with long handles, I'm not going to attempt upholstery. You will learn techniques as you go along, just by trial and error. You may need to do it over one or more times, but so what? You'll probably do it better than most shops- and believe me that is very true. Only one in four professionals are competent at what they do.
With help and guidance from a group of guys like we have here, you will get it done. These are are fairly simple machines, and its not rocket science. Much of it is unbolting one part and bolting on another. I had never welded until recently, so I bought a welder and through the use of videos, I practiced (and practiced)  (and practiced), and finally built a ramp to get one of my cars in the garage (its one of those plastic cars that we don't like to mention on this forum). The car is too low and the driveway too steep, but now I can drive it right in. 
If you think you can't do something, you're right. If you adopt an attitude that anything you mess-up can be fixed, it makes a world of difference. Just remember that nothing that anyone does is perfect. I tend to be a perfectionist and constantly have to remind myself when something is good enough.

Unfortunately, I found very few classics in my club, and even fewer people who actually work on their cars. I find that frustrating, because I like working on things, and talking to like minded people. If you don't have some natural mechanical ability, it will be very difficult. I have one son that doesn't know one end of a screwdriver from the other, but his younger brother will attempt anything. I figure I could do anything, but there are some things I just don't want to do. For instance, I think hog ring pliers would make my arthritis act-up, so unless I can fashion a pair with long handles, I'm not going to attempt upholstery. You will learn techniques as you go along, just by trial and error. You may need to do it over one or more times, but so what? You'll probably do it better than most shops- and believe me that is very true. Only one in four professionals are competent at what they do.
With help and guidance from a group of guys like we have here, you will get it done. These are are fairly simple machines, and its not rocket science. Much of it is unbolting one part and bolting on another. I had never welded until recently, so I bought a welder and through the use of videos, I practiced (and practiced)  (and practiced), and finally built a ramp to get one of my cars in the garage (its one of those plastic cars that we don't like to mention on this forum). The car is too low and the driveway too steep, but now I can drive it right in. 
If you think you can't do something, you're right. If you adopt an attitude that anything you mess-up can be fixed, it makes a world of difference. Just remember that nothing that anyone does is perfect. I tend to be a perfectionist and constantly have to remind myself when something is good enough.

While doing my upholstery it wasn't the ring pliers as much as the constant pulling, stretching and tucking that played havoc on my arthritis.  

Unfortunately, I found very few classics in my club, and even fewer people who actually work on their cars. I find that frustrating, because I like working on things, and talking to like minded people. If you don't have some natural mechanical ability, it will be very difficult. I have one son that doesn't know one end of a screwdriver from the other, but his younger brother will attempt anything. I figure I could do anything, but there are some things I just don't want to do. For instance, I think hog ring pliers would make my arthritis act-up, so unless I can fashion a pair with long handles, I'm not going to attempt upholstery. You will learn techniques as you go along, just by trial and error. You may need to do it over one or more times, but so what? You'll probably do it better than most shops- and believe me that is very true. Only one in four professionals are competent at what they do.
With help and guidance from a group of guys like we have here, you will get it done. These are are fairly simple machines, and its not rocket science. Much of it is unbolting one part and bolting on another. I had never welded until recently, so I bought a welder and through the use of videos, I practiced (and practiced)  (and practiced), and finally built a ramp to get one of my cars in the garage (its one of those plastic cars that we don't like to mention on this forum). The car is too low and the driveway too steep, but now I can drive it right in. 
If you think you can't do something, you're right. If you adopt an attitude that anything you mess-up can be fixed, it makes a world of difference. Just remember that nothing that anyone does is perfect. I tend to be a perfectionist and constantly have to remind myself when something is good enough.

Which one of the classics are you? Whats not to love about a 56!

Drove to Canyon Lake TX to pick up my first love from a buddy.  My first vehicle was a 56 F100, which I foolishly sold circa 1980. 

When I did my 73, I used a 2x4 and a square to do what is known as a "story pole" in woodworking and construction.  I was able to hang my radiator off the 2x4, so I didn't even need to drain my coolant to do the job.
Take off your fenders.  Then use the existing holes in the inner fenders to screw up and through a 2x4.  This helps brace the car in position when you start removing structural stuff so the car doesn't move around.  Without something to give it structure, the top of the inner fenders can be moved around several inches.
Then, using a framing square, I marked the exact position of a bunch of holes and features in the radiator support in my 2x4.  This is so when you start putting the new one in, you have a dozen reference points.
I used my old radiator support as a test piece to get my welder dialed in.  Its real easy to blow holes through sheet metal if its not something you do every day.  And dont worry too much about trying to make youtube pretty welds.  30 seconds with your grinder and a flapper wheel turns ugly welds into pretty ones.  I've seen folks use a harbor freight spot welder to do some of the job.  I dont think the jaws can reach around some of the inside curves to do the whole job.
 

I would put in an Eaton Truetrac- try Quick Performance. The EATON Truetrac uses helical gears instead of clutches to perform its limited-slip function.

As nice as your car looks I personally would not race it, I would be treating it like a baby. If you never intend to race or do any mud slinging an open rear would be my choice. If you ever want to race again take the 411 and build a race car around it. 

Yeah I've been there and done that, as you know. Time helps, but more than anything, when the time is right for you, find another person to share your life with. Life can be sweet again; maybe bitter-sweet, but sweet.
I still think you should try the speed/gear calculator. If I remember correctly my ol' Vette (2001) when in OD is around 2k between 60 and 65.

I said all along it would be something so stupid you wouldn't even think of it ! When i put the 07 motor into my 05 mustang the 07 harness was still on it ,it wouldnt work in the 05 so i had to change it inside the car ,that wasnt easy because it was almost impossible to get to the tranny sensors . I must have twisted the rear part of the harness,the part with the plug ins for the 02 sensors . I had the bank 1 sensor plugged into the bank 2 02 sensor and the bank 2 sensor plugged into the bank 1 sensor ...does not work that way ! Swapped the plug ins today and its like a new car ,should be ,i replaced every sensor ,spark plugs ,coils  and even resealed the intake and throttle body . Now i can finally finish it up and drive !

A quick update:
1-the 408 stroker finally arrived in the crate across the pond after 9 month of delays, shipping issues etc
2-taken some times to get the various ancillary parts, shipping to U.K. is a real pain; JBA shorties etc 
3-engine fitted and hoping to fire it up in next 3/4 weeks 
4-just collecting the other parts to complete the car e.g  glass will go in next 2/3 weeks 
car is booked into a major U.K. classic car show on 10 `July so has to be ready, but not sure if I’m going to make it 
chris 

I’ve been recently remarried. Your right bitter sweet. Not a fan living alone.
I’ll take the car out today and see exactly where I’m at at 60 mph

Hello again, and dang I love that color. An AOD overdrive gear ratio is 0.67:1? Many people prefer a 3.5:1 rear end. Play with a calculator like this to give you an idea:
https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

Hello again, and dang I love that color. An AOD overdrive gear ratio is 0.67:1? Many people prefer a 3.5:1 rear end. Play with a calculator like this to give you an idea:
https://spicerparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator

Hello prayers hope all is well and welcome back. Most all the AOD's from factory had a 355 or 373. I had a 373 in my 69 with AOD and it ran around 2500 rpms at about 60mph. A drone is usually caused by your muffler/exhaust system the higher the rpm's just amplifies it so you may want to look into that as well.

It's fixed - my horn works again. Thanks to @det0326 for hooking me up with a seller of the part I needed. I may now be the world's foremost authority on 2-spoke horns. I took a bunch of pictures, I may post a thread on it while it's fresh in my mind in case anyone else ever cares about such a thing. 

Didn't Ol' Henry say that if you think you can't do it, you're right?
GO FOR IT DAVE

Didn't Ol' Henry say that if you think you can't do it, you're right?
GO FOR IT DAVE

One place I worked, I was called the engineer liaison, it was my job to make  new designs to work in the shop before being released to the customer. Needless to say I had a close relationship with the Engineers. Have to say they were the best bunch of guys I have worked with.  
 

Realise the value in the T-Bird and put a Windsor into the Mustang.  You can keep the T5 in it, its a DIY engine swap and changing the plugs will be a whole less pain.