CedAbedaPep

that I don't have a clue where they came from or who the photos belong to?   They just showed up in the post.  I used the full editor feature and it shows a delete button for each attached photo.  When I hit the delete buttons, a message comes up that the action failed.  This is in the neutral switch thread in the Tech Forum.
 
Thanks!

does anyone do a road trip event across Texas? I would love to do one with other classic cars, if anyone have info that would be great

So i know i've been on here a while and some how i never posted up my build lol. Currently Its in the body shop and thanks to the help of cphsonic things are coming along nicely.

the look im going for picture this car all silver w/ All black fr500s 18x9/10
the car will be taken for auto-x from time to time.



4years i havent' driven the car and finally the car is almost complete send it to the shop a while back and so far the structure of the car seems good. So they took the car apart and they are going to start sanding the body to bare metal. here are some pictures.

I have a pair of BF Goodrich G-Force Drag Radials 215-60-14 on loan.  Should I run these instead of the BF Goodrich Radial T/A's 215-70-14 on the car now ?  I have been told that the smaller drag radials will help out with the 3.25 gears out back.  Racing in San Diego at one of the Two 1/8 mile tracks.  My last outing I ran on the T/A's and never got out of second.  Brian

I know this has been discussed a million times. But I'm trying to figure out my best option. I've saved enough money to completely redo my 69 coupe. Yes a coupe. I love those body styles. Anyways, I've saved enough to redo all the sheet metal and interior. Motor and trans are good. Gonna do a disc brake swap on the front. But the steering in the car is shot. I'm talking about almost a half a turn on the steering wheel before it catches. The steering box is shot. And I'm sure other parts are gonna be needed to changed also. I looked at the rack and pinion set ups. But my budget isn't enough for a $2-3 thousand set up. I'm sure once I tear the car apart I'll find small things that'll eat up the remaining funds. So I'm trying to decide if rebuilding the factory steering set up is feesable versus waiting to save up enough for a r&p set up. The car is factory power steering and I'm not sure if manual steering is something I want to go with to cut corners on my budget. Any suggestions?

Would it be hard to black out the moldings and bumper on this image? Thanks for taking the time to look guys, new on here!
 
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oH-YEFuEkbs/U3HotPaNYAI/AAAAAAAABuI/scDqTxkF-1c/s1600/Rare+1970+Ford+Mustang+Boss+302+Calypso+Coral+1.JPG
 
http://1-photos.ebizautos.com/used-1970-ford-mustang-boss302-9423-5096299-5-640.jpg

Or maybe it's cage nut... I'm missing the cage nut that attaches the quarter window regulator assembly to the body at the bottom (374251-S). Anyone have on laying around they would part with? AMK carries them, p/n B-12033, but they have a minimum $30 order. I haven't found them on any of the usual parts sites.
 
And while I'm asking, I'm also looking for a door lock rod, the one that goes from the key lock to the latch (middle one in attached pic).

Ok I'm really just writing this post to commiserate.  I had my wife take her Daily into a shop we've used for years to get estimates on the 100,000 and 120,000 service for our Honda.  I'll admit we change the oil on a regular basis but are mostly late on the rest of the scheduled maintenance.  But I fear the timing belt going out and killing the motor (nice little 3.0 V6). 
 
So they said we should do the water pump at the same time as the timing belt.  Ok no biggie.  The rate was what I expected.
 
But then they got to the Brakes, Plugs, and S-Belt.
Rear Pads and Rotors more then $400
Spark Plugs $350
S-Belt $120
 
So about $900 for basic maintenance stuff.  As much as the Timing Belt. 
 
I did what I think most of you guys would do and went to NAPA.  Total parts in hand About $170.
The breaks took me 2 hours because I didn't know how to use a certain tool.  I expect a real mechanic could do it in 1.
I'll do the other 2 jobs this weekend but expect to spend maybe an hour to complete them.
 
Can someone explain to me what I would have gotten for another $700 at the shop?  Even if I double the cost of the parts that's more than $500 in labor for what should be 3 hours of work.
 
END RANT

May have come upon a suitable 3rd brake light haha.
What yall think.
I just need to come up with some kind of surround to totally stop the light from emitting into the back window at all.
Its not overly bright in the inside of the car but it is noticeable.

Nice car!! I really like the look of the black primered 69/70 cars! Hard to explain, they just look bad a$$.

I have the same gut feeling to tell you the truth. You can see the low point to the top right of it. Didn't really have that close of a look until I blew these pics up and then went back to look.
Looks like it is just another reason to bight the bullet and strip it right back. So much for the "finished project" I purchased in hope of driving straight away.
Still, looking on the bright side, I'm learning every square inch of my car. I'm gaining something out of it at least.

The Cherry ave .swap meet is April 6 in Fresno Ca. I am thinking about loading up the 66 ,and what ever parts i can find and buying  a space .We need Ford people there ..just way to much Chevy junk there .

So ive read through the older threads and i think it just made things worse. I've been looking at doing a disc conversion for the back brakes and exploring all options. any times the threads ive read over on the VMF covered stangs but not the 69/70. So here's where im at: ive been looking at the wilwoods and others but my biggest concern is the parking brake lines as i dont want to create a new line set up. what have you guys used with good results? 

I thought this was a fun build.  I like the paint but think I'd personally swap the wheels out.  The one thing I'm trying to wrap my head around is the math.  They said they spent 40k on the car and parts (seems low) and 310 hours on the build.  It sold for 56.5k.  Now if you were paying straight rates at shop that is at least 20k in man hours probably closer to 25k.  Even if you own the business and pay 1/2 that, it doesn't seem like a lot of profit.  But most the time was volunteer time I think.  Not that I'm knocking them building the car I just always have a laugh at the prices and profits they show on reality shows.
 
 
 
 

Did a search.. didn't see anything..
 
Been sitting for 33 years.. spun motor a few revolutions by hand.. primed the oil system tonight.. put on TDC... and there's collapsed lifters..
 
What's the best way to approach this without pulling the cam and lifters????   spin motor with starter??? or just yank everything???
 
https://youtu.be/sw2_Z6KFHDQ

excellent running Edelbrock thunder carb with electric choke
650cfm
on weekend driver for about 10-12k miles
currently running on 331 stroker thats putting 392 at the wheels.
has fuel inlet,pressure gauge, and regulator with it.
all in working order
 
also have new 1/2 laminate spacer-never used $25.00

I'm looking to upgrade the front & rear suspension so my convertible rides like a new car. There is so much aftermarket kits & parts out there....just wondering what other people have used or what you recommend?? Thx!

Couldn't find anything on this. 
Is there supposed to be some kind of drain hole in the lower corners of the the rear window seat.  It seems that water would infiltrate the molding and settle in the corners.  On mine, one side has a hole, could be a rust hole, and the other side looks welded up tight.  A drain hole would seem like a good idea to keep water from pooling in there.   TIA

This is just a post of showing off. Nothing more or less.
 
I working on a project with a friend. We are building a clone terilinga coupe.
The car will be used for some track days and club racing and then be up for sale and we will likly build another one after that
The engine we are using is a Roush 358 former sprint cup engine.
It is a clever using a ford racing block and roush Yates cleaveland type heads.
The engine was converted to roller cam with a slightly different profile that will better suit road racing.
We had roush go through the engine before sending it out. Dyno'd at 800hp
 
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=4638&pictureid=54153
 
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=4638&pictureid=54154

I'm reinstalling the quarter windows in my 69 coupe. In my hardware bag for each side, there's this part:
 

 
I have no idea what it's for and couldn't find it in any diagrams. Any ideas?

I'm selling a American auto wire harness that I used in my 69 coupe for a few months but since the new car I bought has a good harness in it I will be selling this one. Lmk
 
http://www.americanautowire.com/shop/complete-wiring-kit-1969-mustang
 
Located in Fairfield ca
Text or call or pm
7076736058

Yes.. I did search..
 
Has anyone tried this on an already painted rear fender with any luck??? Trying to make some 17" rims work with some 255s... Youtube vids look like it should..
 
http://www.eastwood.com/fender-roller-car-kit-2-pc.html?reltype=2&parent_id=1286
 

hey guys,
 
so I'm curious if any of you have modded any of your fuel filler necks to prevent fuel from splashing back when refueling? I would also love to have the modern filler necks where you can place the pump and leave it there. Im surprised no manufacture has created a filler neck to treat this issue..weird...lol
 
I Just ordered a replacement gas tank and sending unit (locally) and going to purchase a holley hydramat from summit so it'll be perfect time to do these mods. Im no welder so I'd prolly have to take it to a fab/muffler shop near by and see if they can help me mod one up.
 
I found a couple of threads from VMF that have done this Splash guard filler neck mod but no one has updated it ever since so Im kinda curious if it works or if it was a failed attempt trying to modernize the filler neck.
 
anyways, any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 1969 FMX out of a parts car. Been years since it was ran, will need rebuilt. Dont have torque converter. Whats it worth? Also have crossmember.
Thanks, ED 

Hello all,
 
I replace my alternator with a 1G 6 years ago and about 10000 miles later it bit the dust. I have added things like a stereo and fan and have eaten 2 batteries in that time so I want to upgrade to a 3G but need some advice. I think the Taurus 3G from some years is a perfect fit as far as bolting it in I think the wiring is fairly simple too but is the a clear install demo or instructions somewhere? Any advice. 
 
THANKS
Dan