Jump to content

dlinebar

Members
  • Content Count

    333
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

dlinebar last won the day on February 9 2016

dlinebar had the most liked content!

About dlinebar

  • Rank
    v8 powered poster

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hello I installed a pick and pull 3g Alternator to replace my dead 1G. It works fine, charges good no issues there I think I wired it right, it was simple enough, but my turn signals and horn are not working now...I did nothing under the dash, just did the wireing and regulator removal under the hood. It could be they were not working before as I did not use them since last year I was wondering if anyone else had a similar issue and there was something I missed in the replacement or do I need to trouble shoot some other wiring gremlin not related to the alternator. Also when I turn on the lights the one rear break light stops working, works fine with lights off...anyone have something like this happen when they did the 3g upgrade?
  2. Thanks, After doing some more research I am thinking about the Jegs one wire alternator instead. I already converted my stock amp meter to a volt meter as the original was long dead and my stock wiring around the stock alternator leaves something to be desired. I figure I can clean up the wiring and simplify things with the one wire but I have a question. I read somewhere that there was an issue with the stock dash board lights if you did this, I cannot imaging that is true but wanted to know if there are any real drawbacks to going with a one wire. I was going to get the 100 amp unit. Thoughts?
  3. Hello all, I replace my alternator with a 1G 6 years ago and about 10000 miles later it bit the dust. I have added things like a stereo and fan and have eaten 2 batteries in that time so I want to upgrade to a 3G but need some advice. I think the Taurus 3G from some years is a perfect fit as far as bolting it in I think the wiring is fairly simple too but is the a clear install demo or instructions somewhere? Any advice. THANKS Dan
  4. Thanks all I was hoping for 400 HP... (kidding) Also the engine is a fresh rebuild so I assume the stock HP was 220-230 so now guess I am at 260-270 which is Ok, I am not sure how much I want to mod the internals, its a driver not a racer I just wanted a little more umph.. I have other work to do on the car and will live with this until I get done some other stuff and feel the need for more speed....I would guess if I do anything it would be a cam, and then heads...THANKS!
  5. Hello all, I just finished the last of my power adders and was wondering how much HP some of you experts think I should have now. I had a stock 302 with a 2 barrel carb single stock exhaust. I changed to an Edlebrock 4 barrel 650 carb , Edlebrock performance aluminumintake manifold, Tri Y headers, 2 1/4 inch dual exhaust with an H pipe and Magnaflow straightthrough flow mufflers. I was wondering about how many more ponies I should have now. Thanks!
  6. Thanks, interesting idea about getting rid of the antenna.
  7. So I was working on the car took the stock antenna off and made sure I put the rectangular chrome benzel in a safe place so I would not loose it...and I forgot where I put it so now I need another one...anyone got one or know where I can get one???? I am talking about the chrome piece that covers the bottom of the antenna base. THANKS Dan
  8. So I was working on the car took the stock antenna off and made sure I put the rectangular chrome bezel in a safe place so I would not loose it...and I forgot where I put it so now I need another one...anyone got one or know where I can get one???? I am talking about the chrome piece that covers the bottom of the antenna base. THANKS Dan
  9. I did add an electric fan and a better stereo with an amp (Nothing crazy like big subs or anything.) I did want to go chrome though. Not staying stock. 90 amps seems like more than enough. I am not sure what failed, the regulator or the alternator, don't really care as I always replace both any time there is an issue. I was really wondering how the single wire was working for people..seems like it works just fine from what I have read. I don't think the stock wiring is that much of an issue as the wire the feeds the battery us upgraded and can handle the current. The Battery is capable of producing hundreds of amps (700 or so) and the car is designed to have that managed with the stock wiring. In other words even with the 60 AMP stock alternator the car could in theory see hundreds of amps from the battery terminal. The care is designed to deal with that and there is no need to upgrade the harness as the only wire that will need to deal with more than stock current is the one connected to the battery from the alternator. It will have to handle 90 amps and not just 60. If I go single wire I would just hide the old existing wiring fir the regulator etc in case I decided to go back stock some time in the future. Dan
  10. I did add an electric fan and a better stereo with an amp (Nothing crazy like big subs or anything.) I did want to go chrome though. Not staying stock. 90 amps seems like more than enough. I am not sure what failed, the regulator or the alternator, don't really care as I always replace both any time there is an issue. I was really wondering how the single wire was working for people..seems like it works just fine from what I have read. I don't think the stock wiring is that much of an issue as the wire the feeds the battery us upgraded and can handle the current. The Battery is capable of producing hundreds of amps (700 or so) and the car is designed to have that managed with the stock wiring. In other words even with the 60 AMP stock alternator the car could in theory see hundreds of amps from the battery terminal. The care is designed to deal with that and there is no need to upgrade the harness as the only wire that will need to deal with more than stock current is the one connected to the battery from the alternator. It will have to handle 90 amps and not just 60. If I go single wire I would just hide the old existing wiring fir the regulator etc in case I decided to go back stock some time in the future. Dan
  11. About 7 years and 10,000 miles ago I put a new alternator and regulator in my car. All has been well until this week and they are no longer charging the car. The wiring is original and at some point was hacked up and I fixed it (7 years ago). I was wondering about going to as single wire alternator. I have read a lot about them and they seem like a good option. I also wanted to go chrome this time. I went with all stock from the local auto store last time. I could go with the original type and a separate regulator but that means using the old wiring etc. It seems like a cleaner solution would be the single wire alternator. I was wondering with the pitfalls were if any. I already converted the original in dash gauge to a volt meter so no issue with the gauge. Soo...pros vs cons of single wire alternator vs original type. Also I see the original was 65 amp and a lot of people go with a 100 amp. That seems overkill and there could be an issue with the wiring harness being able to handle it. I do have an electric radiator fan added and an upgraded stereo but nothing crazy. I found an 80 amp which seems more reasonable to me but I would be the normal rating would work as well. Thoughts Dan
  12. I ran a few forums and the Spam was unbelievable. Dozens to hundreds a day...a real PITA. I finally gave up. there were a lot from .ru so I banned anyone from there and things like that but there is currently no good automatic banning software that I know of...I did use stopforumspam dot com to help identify evil doers. Any way thanks for the forum and good luck with the scumbags.
×
×
  • Create New...