1969_Mach1

For a while I had a late model 3G alternator on my Mach 1.  Always charged at 14.6 to 14.8 volts.  I have an Optima battery so I didn't notice any gassing from the battery.  However, my temp, oil pressure, and fuel gauge always read a little on the high side.  I switched back to an original type alternator and external voltage regulator and the charging voltage dropped down to 13.8V.  The gauges all dropped down to where they would normally read.
I simply went to my local NAPA store for a voltage regulator when switching back to an original style alternator.  It's electronic as well.  Doesn't look original but seems to work fine. 

110+ temps during the summer are common in California and Arizona.
At 14.8 charging voltage are your gauges reading correctly?  If okay, just watch the battery.  Some batteries, even though sealed, will start to seep acid through the vents or around the posts with high charging voltages.  Doesn't seem to damage the battery, just messy.

If you look at later model 302 and 351W oil pans, 80's, 90's, that have flat side rails.  Older oil pans like these classic cars use have ribs between each bolt hole on the side rails.  Sometimes somebody will try to install a late model one piece gasket for flat side rails on an older oil pan with ribbed side rails. It will fit, but might leak.
If you installed it 2 years ago and now a leak has started.  Look close and try to determine if its the oil pan gasket or rear main seal.  It's not too easy on Fords because of the plate between the engine and trans.  Silicone sealer is kind of a strange thing.  It's for sealing oil leaks, yet, oil slowly deteriorates it. 

If chasing the threads with a tap doesn't work, the next easiest thing to try is a thread repair (heli coil).  There is also, a repair like Alan_Mac did.  Whatever the repair, use anti-seize compound on the threads and do not tighten them with a torque wrench.  With anti-seize compound, if using a torque wrench it's possible to damage threads before reaching the desired torque setting.
Curious, is the new heavy duty cross member designed to reuse the original bolts with a counter sink head?  I've looked at aftermarket cross members but noticed they are not designed to use the original bolts.  The original cross member uses bolts with a counter sink (taper) below the head.  This positively locates the cross member and prevents any relative movement between the frame and the cross member.  

It makes sense now.  Low millage but kind of a hard life 1/4 mile at a time.

I'd simply replace the entire idler arm assembly.  Doesn't have to be a roller idler arm.

Anybody use the Scott Drake brand labeled shocks?  Are they simply KYB Gas-A-Justs that are relabeled for Scott Drake?  They look a little different than the KYB shocks.  Are they a high pressure gas shock like the KYB Gas-A-Justs?  There is very little info out there for these shocks.  Thanks in advance for any info.
 
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz18124hp/overview/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang

If you a non factory tach instrument cluster why not just get the original gauges working correctly?  Rocketman's Classic Cougar Innovations can convert your ammeter to a voltmeter.

Probably okay, but next time try to use a lacquer type paint on the radiator.  The lacquer will not affect the heat transfer rate much, if any.

I wouldn't say your motor is worn to the point of needing a rebuild.  Oil pressure at hot idle in gear is toward the low side.  I would double check that with a mechanical gauge.  I have had Ford and GM oil pressure gauges read incorrect with particular brand sending units.  I have had good luck with Standard brand oil pressure sending units in Fords.
The oil you are using is good.  The 10W-30 viscosity is a little low for that older motor.  Valvoline doesn't have a racing 10W-40 motor oil.  Also, does that Valvoline oil have enough ZDDP for flat tappet cam motors?  I switched to the Lucus Hot Rod and Classic Car 10W-40 oil.  I like it much better than the Valvoline VR Racing oil.  Plus it has ZDDP for flat tappet cams and is also made to cling to surfaces which helps motors that sit for long periods of time.
As far as oil consumption, you might not believe this, but to the best of my knowledge Ford and GM will state 1 qt. every 1000 miles is normal.  Maybe that's to avoid replacing motors under warranty, I don't know.  Conventional oils will "burn" more than synthetic oils.  That doesn't mean the engine is using oil.  What this means is the additives to conventional oils evaporate at lower temps than synthetic oils.  Thus,  as the additives evaporate the oil level drops. 

Here are a couple of links with brackets.
Alternator bracket, repro from NPD:
https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/bracket_alternator_upper-145979-1.html
Power Steering Pump Bracket from West Coast Classic Cougar:
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9oz-3k505-a.html
Alternator bracket from West Coast Classic Cougar:
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9ze-10a336-a.html?attribs=88
You will need a shorter bolt for the alternator pivot.  Do not transfer that 1/2" bolt long spacer on the power steering pump to the 351W.  The new 351W PS bracket takes up that thickness.  All your other 302 brackets should transfer to the 351W.
 
FYI:  If you are not using headers, the 351W has different exhaust manifolds than the 302.

If you open up the factory tach you will see a transformer that is wired in series with the ignition coil.  I think it is a step down transformer with two sets of windings.  One set is in series with the ignition coil and the other set supplies electrical power to the tachometer.  Anyway, if the windings of this transformer that are connected in series with the ignition coil go bad your engine will not start.
I'd suggest do what Alan-Mac did and have the tach retrofit.  If you want to keep it original I would try Rocketman's Classic Cougar Innovations.  He retrofits these tachs but maybe he has some good used OEM parts to repair yours.  If not, he or Red Line Gauge Works can retrofit it.

I'd say you're correct because of the position of the white letters on the tires, the concrete and the shape of the shadow.

Unless you're in a hurry, places like NPD have the color barnett468 is describing.

I think he is referring to a wide band O2 sensor and gauge.  Am I wrong?  Some people use them to help tune their motor.  I'm too old school to understand why.

Bilstein are nice shocks.  I recall when I was a GM technician at least half of their new cars and trucks came with Bilstein shocks.  The situation I am in is the car already has 560 lb./in. front coils and 5 leaf 200 lb./in. rear leafs.  So I don't want a real high pressure gas shock.  I'd go with adjustable Gabriel Striders again if they still made them, but they don't.  I have found Koni "Street" shocks, as they pronounce it, for $65.00 each at Summit Racing.  They are non adjustable, but, I might go with them.
 
Before I rule out Bilstein shocks, where did you find them?

Actually, I don't want the high pressure KYB Gas-A-Justs.  I've used them once on another vehicle in the past and didn't like them.  I was hoping these Scott Drake shocks were not as highly pressurized as the KYB's.  The shocks currently on the car I purchased back in about 1998 and they are the 3-way adjustable Gabriel Striders.  One of them will not adjust for some reason.  Even though it ratchets like it's adjusting, it seems to be stuck in the softest setting.  Since those are no longer made, I need 4 shocks.  There doesn't seem to be many options for lower cost shocks that are still better than an OEM replacement.  I have found Koni's street shocks for $65 each at Summit Racing.  Those Koni's might be my best choice, I don't know yet. 

Check basic stuff like vacuum leaks, etc.  If all is okay rebuild the carb again.  With todays fuel rebuilding a carb every three years is not uncommon.  This is especially true for cars that sit for long periods of time.  As the fuel in the carb evaporates it tends to leave film build up.  Eventually small passages like the idle fuel restrictors plug.  Could have also picked up small debree that plugged an idle fuel restrictor.
Have you tried covering the carb with your hand when it is idling like that?  If so, and the idle quality improves it is definitely too lean from either a vacuum leak or plugged idle fuel restrictor or idle passage.
You can try removing the idle mixture screws and spraying carb cleaner through the passage.  Also, if you know where the air bleeds are spray carb cleaner through those as well.  If it is a Holley carb, the air bleeds at the top looking straight down, 2 in each bore, very small with brass inserts.

Sorry, after looking closely at the pictures, I noticed your kick down rod looks bent, and the adjustment screw, captured nut and return spring for the kick down lever on the carb is missing.  Those parts come with a new carb.  There should also be instructions.  You can also buy them separately from Holley or Summit Racing or Jegs.
1)  At idle with the rod connected to the lever on the carb, that lever should NOT be in a fully forward position.
2)  If the adjustment screw and other missing parts were installed on the carb, and your rod not bent, initially you turn the adjustment screw so that when at wide open throttle the kick down rod is in its fully rearward position.  Fine tune after driving but make certain you can always get full throttle.  After that is done, you will notice, at idle the rod and lever on the carb will NOT be fully forward.  You typically have to be at roughly 1/2 throttle before the throttle lever contacts the missing adjustment screw on the kick down lever and starts to move the kick down rod.
You can go the Lokar route.  But you are simply missing a few adjustment parts on the carb and your kick down rod looks bent.
Look at Bob and Sue's photos.  Theirs is set up correctly.  The missing kick down lever adjustment screw and captured nut goes in the hole at the very top of the kick down lever on the carb.  The green lever on the carb contacts that screw when opening the throttle.  Simple arrangement.
http://www.kickdownrods.com/shop/1970-ford-mustang-351c-4v-fmx
 

Hard to believe a simple squeak as the front suspension moves is difficult to find.
Front suspension squeaks as it travels up and down are usually upper control arm bushings, spring perches, coil springs where they seat against the top of the shock tower, sometimes a bad shock.  Many like the stock rubber upper coil spring insulators.  The coil springs usually punch through them in a short amount of time and you end up with a metal on metal situation.  The polyurethane coil spring upper insulators hold up well but need a film of grease on them when installed using the synthetic lube sold for polyurethane bushings.  In a pinch, you can use anti seize compound on polyurethane.
Bob and Sue, don't throw your money away on an aftermarket suspension to fix a squeak.  If your squeak continues, invest in a stethoscope and listen for the squeak while somebody gently bounces the front suspension up and down.
 

Depends on how the car is used and your budget.  In many cases $40 per shock is okay.

I thought in the WCCC video he was referring to the early 1969 and older Midland brake boosters needing a rebuild about every 10 years.  According to WCCC the Midland boosters provided more assist but were not as reliable as the late 1969 and newer Bendix boosters.
It might be prayers1 has a bad booster.  But at this point I am still not certain if prayers1 has enough vacuum to the booster or has the correct combination of parts.  Maybe I missed something, but I don't think those questions have been cleared up.  According to WCCC if a 1969 pedal is installed with a 1970 booster or a 1970 pedal is installed with a 1969 booster, the boosters rear seal will be ruined with just a few ( I think he said about 5) brake applications because the rod from the pedal to the booster will be pushing at an angle.

prayers1:  If you truly have 12" of vacuum at idle, you should have some power assist.  My 351W makes 14" of vacuum and the power brakes work great.  Many years ago an older mechanic told me if you lightly press down on the brake pedal, maybe an inch or so, then start the engine, a properly operating vacuum brake booster will try to pull the pedal down slightly under your foot.  I.E. you will feel the pedal pressure against your foot decrease.  I've tried that simple test on several cars with good operating vacuum power assist brakes and it works.
Do you ever have any power assist?  Like on the first brake application after letting off the gas pedal?  When I was younger I had a Dodge Challenger that made only 9" of vacuum at idle.  I would still get good power assist after letting off the throttle.  And then usually 3 more good power assist brake applications with the car idling like at a stop light. 
rwcstang:  If you hear a hiss while holding the brake pedal down, your power brake booster is leaking.  It's best to have it rebuilt instead of buying an aftermarket replacement or rebuilt booster.

I used an ARP engine bolt kit to assembly my motor.  And yes, you usually do not get all the correct length timing cover bolts.  After I figured out what bolts I needed that were missing in the kit, ARP gave them to me.  Don't get the polished stainless steel bolts.  The finish on them is so smooth they keep coming loose.  I haven't had that issue with the black oxide finish bolts.  And the black oxide seems to last without any discoloring or fading.

Bilstein are nice shocks.  I recall when I was a GM technician at least half of their new cars and trucks came with Bilstein shocks.  The situation I am in is the car already has 560 lb./in. front coils and 5 leaf 200 lb./in. rear leafs.  So I don't want a real high pressure gas shock.  I'd go with adjustable Gabriel Striders again if they still made them, but they don't.  I have found Koni "Street" shocks, as they pronounce it, for $65.00 each at Summit Racing.  They are non adjustable, but, I might go with them.
 
Before I rule out Bilstein shocks, where did you find them?