barnett468

I think in the US the technical term we use is "engine run-on".  At least that's what I was taught.  After you shut off the ignition switch the engine tries to keep running.  It sounds terrible which might where the term dieseling comes from.  Self ignition does describe what is happening.

Thanks Barnett. We call it "self-ignition" here. Why is it called "dieseling" in the US?

Because it runs with no spark
 
And I guess it also sounds like a bad diesel engine

The thumpers are made for their idle sound, all show and not much go. Personally I like Lunati's Voodoo line, if you prefer Comp cams I'd go with one of there XE line.

A Performer RPM breathes far better than stock. A regular Performer is closer to stock.

I have a Small Used Hyd Roller cam I wont be using, Ill get the specs for ya this evening and post them if I can locate the info.
If you want the cam its yours for the cost of shipping LOL.

All fair questions, and one that every decent cam tech line will ask when giving recommendations. It's almost impossible to make meaningful recommendations with so few details.
 
But, there are general trends. The RPM is a great intake, but you won't know it on stock heads, whatever stock heads you have. Cam rec is impossible without knowing if you want torque for the street, high rpm for racing, or what. You can just read the descriptions on the cam manufacturers websites and get more help than you can from us because we don't know what you are trying to do. Matching flow characteristics if cams to intakes is always a good idea.
 
Whatever you decide, either you will have too much cam and intake for the heads you have now, or you will have too little cam and intake for the heads you will buy later. Neither make much sense to me, so I would wait until you can get them all as a package rather than running a frankenstein.

Byron, If your block is not a roller block you would need to use a set of link bar roller lifters to run the cam that I have.
You may as well go ahead and get a set of link bar retro fit roller lifters anyhow if your block is a Non Roller version, that way you can use my roller cam and later on when you get heads you can just get a Bigger roller cam haha

Enough with the tone.
 
Seriously.

One of the things that separates this site from others is our friendly attitude. Let's keep it that way.

I'm sure you'll get it sorted out.  My 2 cents, I'm not a fan of diaphragm clutches with the stock linkage simply because the geometry of the stock linkage was designed to work with a 3 finger clutch and not a diaphragm clutch.  Then for those that really push their motors to high RPM's, by design of the Bellville spring in a diaphragm clutch tends to stay inverted at high RPM due to centrifugal forces.  Back when I was in high school is wasn't uncommon for a clutch pedal to stay on the floor when shifting at high RPM with diaphragm clutches.  When the engine RPM came down the clutch pedal would come back up. 

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xlnt, now fire that beeatch up.

get it hot then go around 25 - 28 mph and slam on the brakes . . if it dies, you gas level is too high in the carb.
 
if you have a heat cross over in the intake and it is connected, i would disconnect it.
 
yes a 5/16" phenolic spacer or 5/16" thick paper carb gasket can help if it is carb fuel boiling.
 
if the fuel line is 1/2" away from the engine and 1" away from the exhaust it is ok.

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maybe these videos will help explain . . some things are like a hustler magazine...they easier to understand when you see them.
 
if you can not get your tranny up more, than you need to get the mose of your pinion up around 1.5 degrees above horizontal so when it is under load it will be at the same angle relative to the trans . . it does not need to be in line with the trans.
 
 

 

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maybe these videos will help explain . . some things are like a hustler magazine...they easier to understand when you see them.
 
if you can not get your tranny up more, than you need to get the mose of your pinion up around 1.5 degrees above horizontal so when it is under load it will be at the same angle relative to the trans . . it does not need to be in line with the trans.
 
 

 

The stock U joint for the 428/4speed w/4:30 rear end is the 1330.  With the Daytona C5AW-C 4668  pinion support.  Brian

The key to your issue is no seat, try it with the seat installed.

build a stroker and you'll be in burn out heaven. lol

The engine is a 351w-4v as close to stock as possible. It is has been bored .030 over. Nothing very special. What part were you saying would not work Barnette 468, the bigger fan or radiator?

Its a $100 part. Buy a 351 cam.

even that small amount would be negligible to most people . . you really need to go for 0 to around 1/2" for it to be noticeable.
 
also, these are not ferraris . . a vehicle can easily be 1/16" toed in when not moving but actually be toed out at highway speeds, but for some odd reason, very few "experts" mention this simply because they are not really experts . . unfortunately, just because people read it on the internet, it doesn't make it true.

I was thinking the difference between 5/16 and 1/16" would be far from negligible. I did the two mods mentioned about 15 years ago.

no prob, you're welcome.
 
yes, amk is the ticket . . the owner of amk started out with a 20 gallon barrel of used original hardware we gave him when he came into our shop and asked if we had any used hardware.
 
all the coatings on his bolts are factory correct but some might be just a hair off the original . . the size of the fixed washers on some of the bolts are around .020" smaller than the originals . . many of the bolts are made by the original manufacturers here in the us.
 
your car would have gray primer . . occasionally it might be slightly purple or dark gray because ford would occasionally mix old dried body paint in with the primer.
 
if you want suggestions for an engine build, just start a new engine build thread . . there are many knowledgeable people here.
 
since its a resto mod, forget about scott fuller exhaust . . if you have around 400 hp or a little less, i would run a 2 1/2" exhaust . . you can cut off the small pipe on the original style tips and weld 2 1/2" to it . . this way they will not restrict flow and it will still look stock . . if you want it fairly quiet inside but not loose any power, i would use magnaflow super quiet mufflers.
 
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/02muffler.asp
 

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you can glue the phone to the back of the glove box.
 
they are not going to spend 30 minutes trying to steal a car unless it is parked in a field in the middle of nowhere.
 
since they will never figure out the ground wire is disconnected, they will never be able to hot wire it.
 
its way to easy to over think theft devices and spend hundreds of dollars on them.
 
other deterrents are a flashing led lite that can easily be see, but no alarm and a lojack sticker in the windshield, lol.
 
 
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put a switch on the negative wire on the coil because the thieves only jump power to the hot side of the coil when trying to hot wire a car.
 
use the cigarette lighter as the switch . . when it is pushed in, it will make contact to run the car.
 
you could leave the car open with the keys in it and they could never, ever, start it.
 
i just saved you several hundred dollars.
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