barnett468

I find that not reading the posts at all takes the very least time.

Do they at least buy you a drink before they bend you over?

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What the heck is it?
 
It sounds like a new type of refrigerator?

Not really.

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This is starting to sound like Chef Ramsays cooking show....and it's makin me hungry!

Unfortunately, the original stripes for the P51 have been discontinued.

I had a black black 69 428 r code.
 
i restore cars and can tell you that the mustang black looks like crap because it is not a dark black and almost looks very dark gray from some angles . all black paint has some white in it . if you go with black, i would buy two thin 12 x 12 sheets of metal from home depot in the electrical or heating and cooling section [the last ones i got were next to the gardening department for some reason]and have your painter shoot the orig color on one and then have him make the same color with 10% less whte in it then look at them from different angles and several feet away around 1 hour before or after the sun is directly overhead.
 
the black toner is pure black but oddly enough, it would look like crap if you painted it with pure toner also . it seems that some white is needed to get a nice shade of black on a mustang.
 
i would also use base coat with clear coat solvent based PPG or Glasurit paint.

I thought that too, but the last time I watched a you tube video the wife saw it and slapped me silly.

Well, I'm not sure but I think that if you posted what "area' you are in, along with some incentives like "I'll buy the Beer." or "My sister looks hot and is single" for example etc, it might be a little more helpful.
 
In the mean time. we can offer plenty of suggestions that "should" help if you want.
 
Also, photos of your welding failures might help us diagnose at least part of the problem.
 
Do you have gas?

I have built countless FE engines, and although some of the guys mentioned are definitely extremely knowledgeable, your goal is so incredibly modest that going to them for help would be like consulting NASA to find out what the best rubber band would be to use on your balsa wood airplane . There are also enough people on this site that have experience with FE's that you will get the info you need, although much of it has already been posted.
 
As far as a single pattern cam goes, it will work better with the Eddy heads than it will with the stock ones . I didn't know you had Eddy's when I made my orig post.
 
The Comp 256 cam will have slightly more lope than the Lunati 256 cam, however, neither cam will produce a very noticeable lope.
 
If you aren't on a stringent budget, you could have a custom cam made . If you do that, I would have Chris Straub make it . A flat tappet hydraulic one is $275.00.
 
http://www.straubtechnologies.com/
 
 

With that ratio, you will have slightly more lift than the cam mfg's state and the valves will open slightly faster than they would with the lower ratio rockers, both of these things are good in your particular case.
 
It would also help to know exactly what cam you currently have.
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I think it's a muffler bearing.

you may have to undo the two bolts on the right frane rail that hold the idler arm on then pull down on the arm to make clearance between it and the pan.
 
remove the dip stick.
 
if you have a pin it will be in the main cap not the block, and will be the cause of a leak.
 
 
push on one end of the seal in the block until around 1/4" comes out the opposite side.
 
grab that end with pliers etc then rotate it around the crank journal . do NOT pull it away from the journal untl you rotate it all the way out.
 
put heavy oil like 50wt or engine assembly/cam break in oil all over the new seal and crank jurnal before installing it in the block.
 
place it onto the crank journal then put light pressure on it to compress it slightly then carefully rotate it into the block.
 
maintain pressure on the end that is going into the block.
 
leave around 3/16" of the seal exposed.
 
install other half of seal into main bearing cap leaving 3/16" of the seal exposed on the oppose end.
 
install main cap.
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TCP makes nice products and has been in the suspension market longer than many others.  Maybe it's just me.  But, it doesn't seem right that a well established business is promoting their product within posts in a forum like this.  It's great and very much appreciated to help with answers and solutions.  But do it in an objective manner that doesn't promote your own products.  In my mind one member recommending a brand or mfg is fine.  But a well established mfg promoting their own product in a post just doesn't seem right. 

Are you using a timing light with an adjustable dial?  If so, make sure the dial wasn't accidentally moved. 
 
It may be worth trying a second light just to make sure yours isn't giving erratic readings.  I have one you can borrow, if needed.  I also have a new set of points out of a stock distributor for a 69 302.  Not sure offhand if they are the same as a 351, but you're welcome to them if you want to toss them in the distributor to remove the pertronix from the equation.  They've never been ran.  I pulled them out of the new dizzy and put in a pertronix III.
 

ok, if you don't answer the questions people ask, you can not get any useful answers.

As far as the brakes go, i can almost guarantee you that your brake lite switch valve is off center . . If it is, it can adversely affect brake performance so I would check that.
 
As far as needing a vacuum gauge or tachometer, you do not need either of those if you are able to hear a small change of rpm in your engine . . With your engine idling, you can turn your idle set screw in 1/4 turn . . If you can hear the small increase in rpm, you do not need a vacuum gauge or tach, however, it would still be easier with either item.
 
The best tool for inexperienced people that are doing this is a digital tach because it is more sensitive than an analog tach [which is one with a needle] and it is more sensitive than a vacuum gauge . . Some timing lites have a digital tach.
 
The reason a vacuum gauge isn't needed if you have a tach is because the higher the engine rpm is, the higher the vacuum will be and the higher the vacuum is, the higher the rpm will be, so they are both interconnected.
 
The tricky part is that there is a threshold where you reach a point where the more you advance the timing, the less the engine increases in rpm for every degree the timing is advanced . . If you were to plot rpm for every degree of advance, you would easily see this point because the line on the graph would initially go up sharply/quickly, and after you reached the "ideal" amount of timing, the line would go up less sharply until it basically leveled off.
 
The higher your compression, the rougher the engine will run when the timing is too far advanced . . For example, if you have 10.0:1 compression, you engine might run rough if you advance the timing to maybe 20 degrees at idle, however, if your engine has low compression like maybe 8.5:1, you can advance the timing much further before it begins to tn rough and when it does run rough, it will typically not run as rough as the engine with the higher compression.
 
The reason it wll start to run rough with too much timing is because the fuel mix is ignited sooner the more advance the engine has and at some point, it is ignited so soon that the cylinder builds up pressure early enough that it tries to run backwards and the more compression it has, the more cylinder pressure it will have which creates more power, so the more power it has, the harder it will try to force the piston down which is why the engine with higher compression will run rougher than one with lower compression.

DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM ADVANCE MODULE [CAN]
 
We know that it is working because your rpm increased when your friend connected it . . There are adjustable cans and non adjustable cans . . Most aftermarket distributors have adjustable cans . . You can easily tell if yours is adjustable be removing the vacuum hose from the can itself, then take the long end of an allen wrench that just barely fits inside the vacuum fitting and push it in until it stops, then turn it whille still trying lightly to push it in . . If the wrench does not lock into a screw and then get harder to turn, try the next size smaller wrench, if this one does not lock into a screw, your can is not adjustable . . You may or may not need an adjustable can if you want to get your timing set to its optimum level . . We will just need to have you do a simple test once you get your timing pointer installed to determine exactly how many degree of timing it provides.
 
 
BRAKES
 
Ok, when an engine has low vacuum at idle on a car with power brakes, your brakes will typically operate normally the first time you push the pedal because the brake booster quickly gets filled with the proper amount of vacuum as soon as you start driving.
 
In general, the faster the engine turns, the more vacuum it will make up to a certain point, so the faster the power booster reservoir will fill up.
 
All engines make the most vacuum when you remove your foot from the gas pedal with the engine still in gear . . If you have a manual trans and put it in neutral when you slow down, the engine goes back down to idle speed where it will have low vacuum if it has a big cam.
 
If you put an engine with a big cam in neutral as you slow down, the first time you push on the brake pedal, they will work perfectly fine PROVIDING, there is nothing wrong with them.
 
After you push the pedal once, you have depleted a lot of the vacuum that was stored in the brake booster, therefore, the next time you push the brake pedal, it will require more force to slow the car because there is less vacuum remaining in the booster.
 
If you put your car in neutral as you come to a stop then push on the pedal 3 separate times, there will basically be no vacuum left in the booster so the brakes will then be manual instead of power and require a LOT of force to slow the car.
 
If you are driving in stop and go traffic, and never get over maybe 10 mph, the engine with a big cam will not make enough vacuum to work properly because it doesn't get up to enough rpm . . Driving in heavy traffic with a car with power brakes and a big cam is dangerous.
 
To improve the brakes on a car with a big cam, you can buy an additional vacuum storage can just like the aluminum one you posted, however, even these will run out of vacuum if the brakes are used a lot at low speed . . If you have a vacuum can and this occurs, you can step up to a vacuum pump . . If the pump is big enough, it will supply enough vacuum that power brakes will work well under almost all conditions . . Summit Racing has them along with virtually everything else under the sun.
 
Now, if the brakes on your car sucked under all conditions, there is a problem other than low vacuum which we can also help you with, however, brakes are far more complicated and difficult to work on, and in your case, it would probably be better if an expert looks at them, however, you can test your brake booster on your own to see if that is bad . . You can also check your brake fluid level and remove the rear wheels and check the brake shoes, brake drums, and the wheel cylinders . . If you have not checked the brakes, I would do it asap because in my experience, most people that are selling their car do not check or rebuild the brakes before they sell it and in many cases I have personally seem, the brakes need some type of repair.
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1969 mach 1 summed it up very well, but there is also more to it and it get quite technical but one thing connecting the vacuum to manifold vac does, is advance the timing once the car starts and it can advance it as you are trying to start it.
 
even most gm cars used ported vacuum contrary to a report that is online which is partially inaccurate and somewhat misleading and the only reason your friend would connect the distributor vac to manifold vac instead of ported vac is because either someone said it is better this way or he read that it is better this way but in fact it is not but chevy guys and some ford guys will continue to claim that it is and most have never even did any type of test to actually see if it i better . . their ignition timing was too low at idle so instead of fixing it properly, they simply connected their vacuum line to manifold vac and it increased the rm so because it increased the rpm, they automatically think it is a good thing.
 
one problem with doing it this is that when y step on the gas, the engine vacuum drops and when the engine vacuum drops, the timing the vacuum can was providing drops top ZERO so your timing is really right back where it was before they connected the hose which was probably too low which is why they connected the hose to manifold vac in the first place.
 
if you advance the timing at idle by moving the distributor and your rpm goes up, you can close the throttle plat which will often stop the dieseling but it can sometimes cause the engine to detonate some . . if it detonates, you simply change the advance curve . . this is the PROPER way to set timing and it will in fact give you the optimum amount of power.
 
yes your car no longer diesels, but no, it does not run as well as it could.

remove those dots and place them farther apart . . you have the entire width of the damper to use.
 
you do not have a line on 0 either . . you need to recheck where all the marks are.
 
you really need to remove all the paint until the metal is shiny.
 
there is a very good reason for everything people ask you to do.
 
 
This is what the timing pointer looks like.
 
1. get a 10 x 24 hex head bolt 3/8" long for the tiny open hole you see in your photo and a flat washer for the screw and a 6" piece of 12 or 14 gauge [small diameter] solid copper wire around two inches long.

2. remove the plastic coating from the wire and put a small loop in one end of the wire just big enough for the screw to go through.

3. put a 90 degree bend in it around 1/2" away from the loop so the end will stick out over the damper.

4. put the washer on the screw then lightly tighten it to see if clears the damper . . bend it until it fits properly then cut the extra length rotate it to the proper position then tighten the screw with moderate force.
 
notice that the end of the pointer is slightly to the left of the bolt . . simply rotate your wire until it is close to the same location then put white out on the end.

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Here's a timing pointer made from a coat hangar which is too big for your tiny screw but oit would work on the lower timing cover stud if there was one but it is harder to make . . the lower stud takes a 5/16" x 18 nut.
 

 
 
You can buy a pointer here or at some mustang shops . . the bottom timing cover bolt is supposed to have a threaded extension sticking out around 5/8" for the other end of the pointer to mount to.
 
http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-timing-pointer-289-302-351w-1968-1973/p/HW1300/

 
 
 
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it is not required.
 
rotate the engine until you see the timing marks on the damper.
 
if they are hard to see, clean or sand the marks until thy are easy to see.
 
put a long line on the 0 or TDC [top dead center] mark with liquid white out.
 
put 1 very small dot on the 10 degree line.
 
put 2 small dots on the 20 degree line.
 
put 3 small dots on the 30 degree line.
 
put 4 small dots on where the 40 degree line would be . . you can measure the distance from 0 t 10 degrees then measure from 30 using that distance and that will be 40 degrees.
 
remove and plug the distributor vacuum hose.
 
lower the idle as much as possible.
 
start the engine and check where the long line is in relation to the timing cover.
 
turn the engine off and put a dot on the timing cover where the 0 timing line on the damper was.\\now we at least have reference points which as we need.
 
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ok, below is just one method.
 
put several paper towels on the left side of the carb below the inspection screws
 
put a felt pen mark on one side of the nut on top of the screw
 
start engine and let run for 30 seconds then turn it off.
 
remove the gas level inspection screw in the side of the carb . . if gas pours out, reinstall the screw.
 
cover the screw on the top of the carb and loosen it 1 full turn.
 
pry up on the nut to make sure the gasket isn't stuck to it and the carb.
 
release the nut and turn it clockwise 1/2 turn.
 
tighten the screw with moderate force.
 
start the engine then look at the screw to insure it is not leaking gas . . if it is, turn the engine off and tighten it more then start engine and check again . . if it is still leaking, one or both of the gaskets are damaged so remove them and do to a hardware store and see if you can get some that will work . . if there is no leak, go to the next step.
 
remove the inspection screw . . if gas comes out, reinstall the screw.
 
loosen screw on top of carb and turn the nut clockwise 1/2 turn and retighten screw.
 
start the car and let it idle for 30 seconds then turn it off.
 
remove inspection screw.
 
if no gas comes out, push on the side of the car a couple times with lite force . . if any gas sloshes out, the gas level is correct.
 
if no gas sloshes out, reinstall the screw.
 
loosen screw on top of carb and turn the nut counter clockwise 1/2 turn and retighten screw.
 
start car for 30 seconds then turn off and check gas level.
 
repeat steps as necessary until a little gas sloshes out when you push on the carb.
 
 
TYPE TWO INSPECTION SCREW
 
If you have a clear sight window, set gas level until it is near the bottom of the window
 
start car for 30 seconds then turn off.
 
if the gas level is too high, turn nut in 1/2 turn per instructions above.
 
start car
 
rev the engine a little few times then turn it off and check the gas level.
 
if it is still high, turn nut in 1/2 turn then start car and rev a few times r
 
 
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Let's stay on topic folks and keep it civilized.

You can trust what barnett468 and 1969_Mach1 are saying. From previous posts 1969_Mach1 has stated he is a service tech, barnett may also be a service tech because he is very knowledgeable and presents the solution in a easy to follow step by step manner. If you do this stuff as steady work and get trained properly you become competent, and only 25% of any profession is competent at their job. Everything I've read that these guys say is spot on. SA69mach is good too, and has an excellent "bedside manner". My 2 cents worth.
 
PS, I don't think the 5 pages are long winded. You learn more by making mistakes, see the result and then correcting the problem. You probably wouldn't have gotten the link to MSD's timing video otherwise. Go at your own pace and LEARN. You're going great!

ok, below is just one method.
 
put several paper towels on the left side of the carb below the inspection screws
 
put a felt pen mark on one side of the nut on top of the screw
 
start engine and let run for 30 seconds then turn it off.
 
remove the gas level inspection screw in the side of the carb . . if gas pours out, reinstall the screw.
 
cover the screw on the top of the carb and loosen it 1 full turn.
 
pry up on the nut to make sure the gasket isn't stuck to it and the carb.
 
release the nut and turn it clockwise 1/2 turn.
 
tighten the screw with moderate force.
 
start the engine then look at the screw to insure it is not leaking gas . . if it is, turn the engine off and tighten it more then start engine and check again . . if it is still leaking, one or both of the gaskets are damaged so remove them and do to a hardware store and see if you can get some that will work . . if there is no leak, go to the next step.
 
remove the inspection screw . . if gas comes out, reinstall the screw.
 
loosen screw on top of carb and turn the nut clockwise 1/2 turn and retighten screw.
 
start the car and let it idle for 30 seconds then turn it off.
 
remove inspection screw.
 
if no gas comes out, push on the side of the car a couple times with lite force . . if any gas sloshes out, the gas level is correct.
 
if no gas sloshes out, reinstall the screw.
 
loosen screw on top of carb and turn the nut counter clockwise 1/2 turn and retighten screw.
 
start car for 30 seconds then turn off and check gas level.
 
repeat steps as necessary until a little gas sloshes out when you push on the carb.
 
 
TYPE TWO INSPECTION SCREW
 
If you have a clear sight window, set gas level until it is near the bottom of the window
 
start car for 30 seconds then turn off.
 
if the gas level is too high, turn nut in 1/2 turn per instructions above.
 
start car
 
rev the engine a little few times then turn it off and check the gas level.
 
if it is still high, turn nut in 1/2 turn then start car and rev a few times r
 
 
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Yes
Dieseling is "Engine Run On" in the US lol...
 
Lets not forget the wiring diagram Barnett showed above is Correct Per Ford However his may not look like that because as a lot of us know you can put number 1 where ever you want to on the cap, provided the #1 Cyl is at TDC and the rotor is pointed to the same post that the #1 wire is on...
 
I'm just saying this because if he had someone else do it for him and the timing is this far out of whack, the guy could have put the #1 in a different location on the cap, and it may confuse him trying to get it all straight..
Just something to think about...we never know what someone elses handy work might look like LOL