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jjstang

Welding help HOUSTON

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I have been convinced to learn to weld. I've done some acetylene 30 something years ago, very little, so I understand the basic concept. I bought a miller 180 autoset, thought the autoset would give me a leg up. I've read lots of sites and watched a lot of the youtube. Well I suck at it. I was hoping someone in my area might be willing to stop by and give me some hands on pointers, make sure the machine is set up right, etc. I could really use it. TIA

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Well, I'm not sure but I think that if you posted what "area' you are in, along with some incentives like "I'll buy the Beer." or "My sister looks hot and is single" for example etc, it might be a little more helpful.

 

In the mean time. we can offer plenty of suggestions that "should" help if you want.

 

Also, photos of your welding failures might help us diagnose at least part of the problem.

 

Do you have gas?

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While you're waiting for the Cavalry to arrive, You Tube is your friend. I'm particularly fond of Jamie at Welding Tips and Tricks. When using a mig to lay a bead I have best results making a cursive C with the wire. Barnett is spot on with you needing to post pics of your welds.

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I have a 211 auto set and love it

A couple of things for you to check.

Be sure the tension on the wire is right. There is a tension setting on the spool so the wire does not unwind when it is not supposed to. If that is too tight from the last time the spool ( small spool) was changed it effects how the thing welds.

 

Also, and I just dealt with this.

I like to run the 5 pound coils but ran out. So I put in a unknown 2 pound spool that I had. It was new but unknown brand. It was clean but had been sitting around for a while. I think it may have come with the century welder I used to have.

Well the welder started welding like crap. I was getting worried that something went wrong with the machine.

Well when I got the new 5 pound coil in I decided to try putting it in the machine instead of waiting to run the 2 pounder out.

Well the machine went back to welding like it was before. Don't know if that was just cheap wire or too old (can't imagine that) but it was the same size but that machine did not like it

 

The other thing is that the auto set seems to me to be a bit fast. You may need to adjust your pace when welding on auto set

 

Bob

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I wish I could help. All I've ever done is a bit of mig welding on floor pans and panels. The roller perches I made could have been better but with a wire feed, no gas, it was not too bad. 

 

 

What part of Houston area? 

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I don't have an Auto Set machine, just a small Lincoln 140 gas mig I think it is, and it does all I need it to, I have noticed cheap wire welds like crap.

Also try to keep your lead as straight as you can when welding, meaning don't have it looped up in a bunch of circles or at sharp angles.

Check the wire tension as well, and be sure the material your welding on is clean, which seems to be the biggest thing for my machine.

I run my machine a little hot on the settings and it seems to make nicer welds, but I have to move faster to make the beads pretty

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I made some nicer looking beads, but now I'm getting something that looks like black soot and a little porous.  I am using the CO mixed gas and the sizzle is not consistent.  

None of the videos etc answer all my questions.  They use a term to "strike the arch", does this mean you have to touch the piece?   The cheap wire is a question.  I'm using Hobart hb-28 .30 wire.  I would assume Hobart would make good wire. 

Another question... When I shut off the gas the pressure leaks down on the gauges.  Is this normal or is there a leak. Thanks

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Pics baby, we need pics! My regulators do not leak down, spray a cleaning solution on the fittings to find your leak. And hopefully only the regulator gauge to the torch leaks down, the other one shows the cylinder pressure. 

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I made some nicer looking beads, but now I'm getting something that looks like black soot and a little porous.  I am using the CO mixed gas and the sizzle is not consistent.  

None of the videos etc answer all my questions.  They use a term to "strike the arch", does this mean you have to touch the piece?   The cheap wire is a question.  I'm using Hobart hb-28 .30 wire.  I would assume Hobart would make good wire. 

Another question... When I shut off the gas the pressure leaks down on the gauges.  Is this normal or is there a leak. Thanks

Also, photos of your welding failures might help us diagnose at least part of the problem.

Black soot is sometimes caused by no gas or insufficient gas . If you weld in a windy area and/or hold the end of the nozzle to far away from the metal, it can do what you explained.

 

I hold the nozzle at a slight angle and no more than 1/4" away from the metal.

 

You can try a short weld without the gas and see if it looks like the welds you had a problem with.

 

You can also try moving the nozzle fairly slowly for one 2" long weld then try moving it much faster for another 2" long weld using the same setting and see which one looks better.

 

Some people like to move quickly and others like me prefer to move more on the slow side . You can adjust your settings to your welding speed.

 

If you don't have a manual, you can often find them online for free . They offer setting suggestions . The one below "should" be for your model . Settings are on page 13.

 

https://www.millerwelds.com/files/owners-manuals/O225311A_MIL.pdf

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I always turn my bottle off when machine is not in use, or any time I flip the switch off on the welder, that way you don't have to worry about loosing your gas when its not in use.

I lost a full bottle one time and I remembered one of my old friends who was a welder that I worked for once to always shut the bottles off anytime your stopped welding, and then I knew why LOL..could be a regulator leak or internal somewhere, I have never bothered to look for the leak I may have because I always shut the bottle off, it has become habbit for me now.

I bought one of the small bottles from Airgas and last time I went to fill it up they didn't have any full small ones so in exchange they gave me a Full size filled bottle for the same price I pay to have a small one filled....Think this one will last me for many years LOL.

 

Sounds like you need to crank the gas up a bit if your getting sooty nasty welds, and be sure the base metal is clean, I cant stress that enough.

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1/4" away.  Got to practice more.  Hard to see  how far away I really am.  That's been a problem.  I even have an auto darkening helmet. When I pull the trigger, I hear the hiss of the gas, no idea if its sufficient. Its just the regulator gauge that leaks down after I shut off the bottle and turn off the machine.   I'll check for leaks. Thanks for the advise.

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1/4" away.  Got to practice more.  Hard to see  how far away I really am.  That's been a problem.  I even have an auto darkening helmet. When I pull the trigger, I hear the hiss of the gas, no idea if its sufficient. Its just the regulator gauge that leaks down after I shut off the bottle and turn off the machine.   I'll check for leaks. Thanks for the advise.

Hold it at an angle so you can see the weld . i sometimes just drag my hand along the metal to steady it . then its easier to know how far away you arei

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I figured out the torch cable wasn't fully seated so that solved the leak down issue.  The longer beads look like the penetration is too much.  So lower the heat, right.  Then I tried the rosettes.    The penetration looked about right??. but the weld looks horrible.  Some of the black soot came back.  And I'm still trying to figure out how to see what I doing.  What do you think.

post-13180-0-71134300-1460164307.jpg

post-13180-0-11791800-1460164315.jpg

post-13180-0-57195700-1460164322.jpg

post-13180-0-09562600-1460164331.jpg

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I only cleaned the areas I was welding, not the whole piece.  But that does bring up two question.  I have a wire wheel on the grinder.  After cleaning the piece, the metal is free of rust/paint, however, do see some blackish looking stains (for lack of better words).  Doesn't matter how long I clean it, they don't go away.  I'm using the old seat risers.  Also when lapping two pieces together, is it necessary to clean all 4 sides.  I'm rationalizing that when adding a new piece to the existing body, such as floor pans to rockers, you can't clean inside the rocker.  In my practice, I don't always clean all 4 sides.

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I only cleaned the areas I was welding, not the whole piece.  But that does bring up two question.  I have a wire wheel on the grinder.  After cleaning the piece, the metal is free of rust/paint, however, do see some blackish looking stains (for lack of better words).  Doesn't matter how long I clean it, they don't go away.  I'm using the old seat risers.  Also when lapping two pieces together, is it necessary to clean all 4 sides.  I'm rationalizing that when adding a new piece to the existing body, such as floor pans to rockers, you can't clean inside the rocker.  In my practice, I don't always clean all 4 sides.

ALWAYS clean every area whenever possible but you certainly weld the rocker without cleaning the inside . If there are pits with rust they should be sand blasted.

 

The peaks on the round welds might be from lifting the gun before releasing the trigger or the wire not stopping as soon as you release the trigger . Pull the trigger and watch the weld then let it go ad see if the wire stops right away.

 

Overall, your welds are far better than many others I have seen and any of the ones you made would actually hold . There is one weld that is better than the others and it is perfect.

 

They should not burn all the way thru the metal.

 

Try turning the gas up.

 

Pull the trigger half way for a second to start the gas before pulling it all the way to start welding.

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The metal gets so hot that it falls out.  The secret to being a really good welder is learning how to control your puddle (the red molten area when you're welding).  You do want the puddle to fall some - that indicates you're getting penetration.  If you were to flip the metal after welding on top and it looked untouched by your welding then the current isn't turned up high enough.  Here are a few tips from what I see:

 

- Looking at your photographs, I actually think you have the current turned up just a tad bit too high - you shouldn't have that much weld falling through.

 

- Practice moving the gun in a timed patterned motion.  Some people use a figure 8 but generally on lighter stuff I just move the gun up and down.  Luckily most sheetmetal is replaced with spot welds which doesn't require as much technique.

 

- Always clean the metal good especially when you start doing spot welds.  You'll want to clean the area around the spot as well since that will flow into your weld puddle.   

 

- Brown residue is normal/good, black is bad.

 

- A good MIG weld, sounds like bacon in a hot pan.

 

- Put your gun where you want to start before you drop your helmet.  Then drop your helmet and pull the trigger.  You can only see once you start welding.

 

 

david

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